Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

1stpop · Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 109

Can anyone tell me what kind of alternator would fit on a morris 8? I've looked at the dynalite ones and they look great but the price is another thing!!!!! any suggestions?

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire

Hi 1st Pop fit a Lucas ACR, the dynalite ones are expensive and also look like the later Lucas dynamo not the C45 dynamo as fitted to the Series E.

You can also use the original bracket with a small amount of packing.I'll be in the garage later today and the dynamo is off my Morris 8 SE, it will take me about 2 mins to fit an alternator, I'll post a pic later.

Dave

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire

Here is a lucas 18 ACR fitted to the Morris, you are best keeping the original pulley as the fan mounts directly on it.

You may need to make a shoulder for the shaft depending on which dynamo is currently fitted.

you can use the original bracket with a packing spacer as I did or modify it to fit the alternator.

I used the original fan belt with an MGB bracket on the 3 rd fixing, a longer fan belt would be better as the alternator is a bit close to the water outlet on the cylinder head.

About 10 mins work to fit, and you will need another 5 to wire in Very Happy

The other thing you will have to do is make the car -ve earth.

Phil - Nottingham · Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1252 Location: Nottingham

These alternators and lesser powered but similar suzed ones were fitted to all sorts of British cars from the early 70's to 1980''s eg Minis.
Later versions were very similar too - eg A100 series.

Land Rover dealers sell these for approx £35 new although they may be Lucas they are now made in China
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire

Hi Phil

the one I used is this example is a £35 china job (well I assume its China given the price), if you open it up it is identical to the Lucas acr, same brushes, rectifier slip ring etc, and even has "lucas" cast in the main frame in the unit, so I suspect someone must have aquired the original tooling? it has no brand name on the outside case.

Dave

Phil - Nottingham · Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1252 Location: Nottingham

It sounds the same - I had heard they had acquired the tooling - at least its another source of parts at good prices
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

1stpop · Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 109

thanks for this UK - really helpful (as always) - what did you do about the fuel pump and gauges when you changed to - earth? Also have you gone to 12V?

Phil - Nottingham · Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1252 Location: Nottingham

Fuel gauge will work either way Ammeter has to have leads swapped over and fuel pump may work if it has no diode in it just try it. IOf it does not sometimes just reversing the diode will work.

Coil on your car may just require CB and SW swaping over although a modern +/- will give better spark
_________________
Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire

Phil - Nottingham · Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1252 Location: Nottingham

The Mini fuel gauge is a 10v stablised unit so the voltage stabiliser (a small oblong metal cannister usually on the back of the instruments or a modern electronic one - see Ebay as Land Rovers had these too) and I would expect the actual tank sender would be required. This may not fit easily so the existing set-up in its entirety may be the better bet.

Stabilsed instruments are easy to tell as these take approx 30 secs to reach correct level unstabilised which were most common till early 1960's give instant reading which fluctuates as the petrol sloshes around
_________________
Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

1stpop · Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 109

didn't realize (thick or what!) that I could stay with the 6v - If I do stay with the 6v do I keep the control box? Think it would make sense to maybe stay with 6v

On my pop I just needed a voltage dropper for the fuel gauge when I went to 12v.

My plan was to use the same voltage droppers for all the gauges - and the fuel pump idea is a brilliant suggestion. Lots to think about and plan over the next few weeks!

Will probably go for the 12v option as I'm gonna have to re-wire the whole car anyway.

will look into investing in a simple car wiring book - lol

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire

If you are moving to an alternator I'd also move to 12v to keep thing simple.

Dave

1stpop · Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 109

if I move to 12V Dave would you recommend the same dynamo? I also presume that I would just run everything directly from the battery via a fuse box.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire

I'd fit a lucas ACR alternator, as in the pics, cheap reliable and have all the control built in, just 2 wires out , one the main output and the other the ignition warning lamp.

Cheers Dave

1stpop · Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 109

Bugger!!! got the 18ACR alternator but the pulley from my old dynamo is too 'fat' to fit - can't get the nut on without taking the fan part of the alternator off. My own pulley has some smaller fans on the back of the pulley though - i this going to be ok? anyone got an opinion? will try and stick a picture on so you can all see what I mean.