Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

websnail · Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Posts: 78 Location: West Sussex

If I wanted to spray enamel paint, say a wing or door at a time, what type of gun would I need?

I think I would prefer an air powered one and not an electric one.
For enamel paint, do I need a high volume/low pressure one?
DIY use only.

Thanks in advance

Dave

welshrover · Joined: 09 Aug 2011 Posts: 326

i would go for the high volume low pressure ,i painted a wolseley 1500 a few years back at home in my yard, it did a good job on that Very Happy

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4242 Location: South Cheshire

Hi Dave

You can use a HVLP gun or a more traditional gun. HVLP reduces overspray , but do check the air requirement of an HVLP gun as they can be very high and beyond the spec of many DIY compressors.

I use a traditional DeVilbiss GTI gun, but also have a cheap Chinese copy (from Machine Mart it was about £30) and it does produce very good results, its just not made as well, and wouldn't last to long in a pro shop. Both guns have a 1.4 tip , I spray both 2 pack and Cellulose with them, you can spray high build primer, but it needs a bit more thinning than usual, I bough a cheap gun with a 1.8 tip for priming.

I have never seen an electric spray gun that would be adequate for vehicle paints...not to say there isn't one !!

Dave

Polypedates · Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 16

I have a Devilbiss FLG5 that I am very happy with. Excellent quality and able to work with small compressors. I am using it for Cellulose and have a 1.4mm tip. Even in my amateur hands it gives a good finish.

My set up is limited to this at the moment:

I have since added a pressure gauge at the gun inlet and would recommend you do this from the start as it makes set up so much easier.

Good luck.

Greg · Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 445 Location: Dreamland Margate

I too use a DeVilbiss GTi gun every day and must say it is a superb Gun
I use it for car paintwork but it can be pressured right down so I can do modelwork with it too!
Highly recommended, but as mentioned above depending on budget and useage.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4242 Location: South Cheshire

This is my Cheaper (£30) gun, it delivers excellent results, but as I mentioned would not last very long in a busy paint shop.

There are a couple of additions that I think are essential, firstly a final filter, water does condense in hoses, this filters the moisture out, also there is a pressure gauge, if the air pressure at the gun is wrong it creates problems, for this type of gun the pressure needs to be measured with the trigger open, you will find the gun gauge reading very different to the tank reading.

Most beginners (me included) have the gun pressure too low and the paint doesn't atomise properly, so they stick more thinners in, the paint then atomises but runs like Usain Bolt!!

Finally, whatever gun you end up with, expect to spend as much time cleaning it as you do spraying! a quick blast with some thinners after spraying, will not clean it!

Dave

mid · Joined: 10 Jun 2008 Posts: 136 Location: Northampton

a little bit off topic but might be useful... i used to work in a prototype model shop for a design company and did a lot of spraying, when i was learning i could never get the paint/thinner consistency right, one of the more experienced guys walked in, saw me struggling and just said "it runs then it drips"

we used to mix the paint in a cup with a plastic mixing stick, basically give it a good mix, then lift the stick out of the cup, say to yourself "it runs then it drips" and the paint should do this off the mixing stick at the same time.

if it runs for longer then its too thick, if it drips to soon then its too thin.

you still had to mess with the gun a little to suit what we were spraying but it was definitely a good place to start from.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4242 Location: South Cheshire

websnail · Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Posts: 78 Location: West Sussex

Thanks guys. Smile

Got my little HVLP gun in the post today. A few things I need, inline water trap and air gauge are a must.

Quick question. On the front of the gun where you can turn the air nozzle round ( the bit with the horns on). Is there an advantage as to the position, i.e. vertical or horzontal? Confused

Polypedates · Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 16

The position of the 'wings' determines whether you get a horizontal or vertical spray pattern. If I remember correctly having the wings at 12 and 6 o'clock gives a horizontal pattern and vice versa (but don't quote me on that!).

Roger-hatchy · Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex

Talking of temperature
The old chap who was employed in the body shop at my last place of employment, he had been in the spray trade since he was at school and retired while I was there.

I noticed a tin of paint in a bucket of simmering hot water on a gas ring.
he told me that he always heats the paint as it flows and 'works' better.

Anyone else heard of this trick of the trade.

websnail · Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Posts: 78 Location: West Sussex

Polypedates · Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 16

You would want the spray pattern to be perpendicular to the movement of the gun to avoid spraying over fresh paint so for left to right go with a vertical spray pattern, i.e with the wings at 3 and 9 o'clock.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4242 Location: South Cheshire

websnail · Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Posts: 78 Location: West Sussex

Hi guys. Just had some fun.

You can learn a lot from just playing i.e.

Compressor too small (it's only 12"long), I knew that already. It had to run non stop. Sad

I need paint strainers and vinyl gloves.

Getting quite good at cleaning the gun out, even if I still don't know what all the knobs do yet Exclamation

More pratice required but I'm happy with what I've done Smile

Just chatting with my brother latter in the day and guess what, he has a 150 litre compresser that I can have. That will be one less excuse for me though Smile