Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[colwyn500]

Someone must know about this stuff.

In principle, from the little I know it seems a good idea to use it.

What are the downsides?

Where do you get it from?

Ta. Peter.

[roverdriver]

Peter, I was hoping that someone located closer to you that has used the products recently would reply. I have not used e3poxy filler for about 10 years, but up until that time, I had used it off and on for many years.

The first consideration is to make sure that the area to which it is to be applied is cleaned (usually this means bare metal). If the material is to be applied where there is the possibility of water getting to the reverse side, then take extra precautions and if possible de-rust on that side too, and when the epoxy has cured, give it all a good coat of rust-proofing.

On the 'seen' side, you will find that the material can be feathered off to a good blend with the parent material. I usually have applied the filler,, let it cure, give it a rough sand to locate low spots, then apply more filler to build those up. A coarse grain paper removes the very high spots, then finer paper to get to a glass-like finish, then paint the whole panel(s) as normal.

Sorry I can't advise on brand names for your part of the world, but I'm sure that a paint supplier or similar business will tell you what you need to know.

I have had great success with a few different products here, but then we do not have the cold extremes that you are likely to suffer, but the upper part of the thermometer scale gets more of a workout here than there.

Hope that helps, Dane.
_________________
Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[colwyn500]

Thanks Dane for that very thorough reply. I am envious of those upper end temperatures. I have come across a Dinitrol product that isn't exactl what I was lookinh for but that I will give a try.

http://www.rust.co.uk/products/product/405032/010-dinitrol-6030-metal-loaded-body-filler/

[ukdave2002]

Hi, why do you need an epoxy based rather than polyester based filler, is the repair going to be left a while before painting?

Dave

[colwyn500]

[Kelsham]

I wouldn't get too hung up on the abilities of lead. I have witnessed lead filling that was rusting from the back of the repair, to the point where small holes appeared.

The secret is to make sure any rust left is mechanically removed and the metal left is treated, I still use Jenolite and keep applying it, using a small wire brush I scrub it untiil no more brown stains appear.

Then I apply filler, if there is any possibility of water reaching the back of the repair it must be dealt with. I sometimes use bridging filler which is waterproof Isopon do one I can recommend.

Otherwise make sure the back of the repair is primed and topcoated. This is probably more important than the front.

Regards Kels.

[ukdave2002]

I'd agree totally with Kels, if moisture gets in behind a joint, it doesn't mater whether its lead or filler the rustbug will rear its ugly head on your pride an joy door panels will get some degree of condensation, so any welded lap joint needs to be properly sealed.

I have never used expoy filler, I either lead load or polyester skim with U-Pol's finest. Lead loading isn't the difficult black art that folk make out, if you can butter a piece of bread you can lead load! it is satisfying to do.

Polyester fillers do absorb moisture so need to be painted promptly, there are some spray polyester fillers around; can save a load of stoppering time, but absorb moisture like a sponge and need painting within hours.

I would imagine epoxy fillers would be harder to flatten, not a problem I suppose for a small area and you can still stopper with a poly if needed.

Dave

[colwyn500]

Some very useful replies there. I will make sure to seal the back of the panels to my best ability. I also think that Jenolite, used the way you describe, works a treat; although you do need a lot of patience. I even use it sometimes around areas that are yet to be welded as an exploratory to see just how far the deep rust extends.

In recent years it seems to be less widely available and there is a green Hammerite or Kurust gel product available from Halfords that seems to be basically the same thing.

Anyway, I will take on your good advice, keep things simple and do a thorough job.

Jumping the gun anyway because I still have to finish the welding.

[ukdave2002]

I don't use any of the proprietary rust treatments, instead I use 40% Phosphoric Acid, any bare steel (even if it looks bright) gets a coat before painting Any rust that can't be mechanically removed will get at least 3 doses of phosphoric acid. All the decent propriety rust products use it as the active ingredient, but you will pay through the nose, and of course H&S means they are all a bit on the weak side.

For smaller corroded stuff not need instantly, I chuck in a solution of diluted black treacle (molasses) and leave for a couple of weeks.

Dave

[V8 Nutter]