Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[alastairq]

Battery to the rear, perhaps?
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Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

[Salopian]

My TD when I got it in 1974 had a round heater with the little flaps fitted in front of the gear lever and attached by a plate to the bulkhead. The hot feed was from a tap on the plate at the rear of the cylinder head and the cold return to a T piece inserted in the bottom hose. Think it was a Clayton or some such brand.
Although I spent hours trying to improve the flow the pathetic output made it a waste of time. I removed it in 1975 (and suspect it is still in my shed somewhere) to make engine/gearbox extraction easier.
It was never missed although I went through 8 or 9 winters with the car as my only transport.
I do recall a TC I saw which had similar fitted whether it worked any better who knows!
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Jonathan Butler
Alvis SD 12/50 1928 MG TD 1950

[Ray White]

[peter scott]

I've had my system drained and refilled many times and never needed to do anything about bleeding it. The heat output is not like a modern but certainly makes a difference and my engine runs cool because the thermostat opens too soon.

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Ray White]

I haven't yet received my new thermostat from the suppliers but I think it will depend on what type it is as to whether hot enough water can be fed into the heater.

The original thermostat as fitted to XPAG engines was of a " skirt & bellows " type. This was tamper proof and had to be replaced complete with housing. There was a skirt that automatically closed off the radiator bypass loop as the thermostat opened. The principle was not just that the engine heated to operating temperature quickly but that the temperature was stabilised so as to reduce stresses and avoid cracking of the "grey" cast iron block.

The advent of stronger nodular cast iron in the 1950s (where Magnesium was added and special heat treatment employed) obviated the need for a by pass loop, however today, easily replaceable thermostats leave the bypass open presumably with no ill effects.(?.)

If the bypass is constantly in use without a restrictor then there is an opportunity for a heater take off point.

If the original type of thermostat is fitted then the bypass will be closed as the engine reaches correct operating temperature.

In any event, the alternative of fitting a take off point to the radiator header tank means that the heater will only work once the engine has reached optimum temperature... and I want something that is very quickly usable.!


Taking the supply from the bottom hose I fear will not only delay operation of the heater but the temperature of the water having been cooled by the radiator may not be high enough for a good outcome.

Of course, I may be wrong?.

[Penman]

Hi
I don't know if this would work, it is just an idea, for a car with a thermo syphon system.

The Volvo 440 had an electric pump which kept water circulating after engine switch off in order to cool the engine down evenly.

Maybe one of these pumps could be used to circulate water through the heater, of course adding a heater to the system also means you are adding extra cooling to the water system so it MAY keep the engine below it's normal operating temp.

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Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

[Ray White]

Hi Penman. I don't think there would be a problem with circulation - especially as I have an improved 6 blade impeller water pump.

I have been trying to work out the best place to take it from. If if a waxstat thermostat is fitted I think the bypass loop would be favourite.

[ukdave2002]

May I ask a daft question!

Do you actually require a heater? the reason I ask is that in the MGA world, the challenge is getting heat out from under the dash as legs and feet tend to get too hot...... owners have ended up fitting additional bulk head insulation to try and keep things cool.

Dave

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

There are two boxes in the footwell. The lower one is for the battery; the other, wider one is a tool box.

My latest plan (it keeps changing!) is to mount the heater under the tool box with the vents facing down. The feed and return pipework will go up into the tool box and out into the engine bay.

(The photo predates the chassis restoration and the bulkhead awaits restoration.)

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[ukdave2002]

I'd go for a cheap 12V 150W electric heater, £25... it's not going to create a heat wave, but will keep your toe's warm in winter. No messing about with plumbing, can both be hidden and quickly removed, I think you are fitting an alternator so the 11A draw shouldn't be a problem.

Dave

[Mog]

It used to take me about 20 mins. to get to work in the daily driver . Aussie Ford 6 cly . but in winter time it never got very warm . My solution was to put a piece of cardboard across the bottom of the rad. It was about 6 inches high . This improved things a lot , it was removed in summer time .

[Penman]

Mog; that was a frequent fitting, particularly on thermo syphons, because in low temps airflow through the radiator could dro the temperature enough to freeze the coollant.
If you managed reasonably quickly to get warm water in to the bottom of the rad it would then percolate upwards and melt any slushing near the top.

There were of course a number of commercial muffs available.
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/radiator-blinds.htm.

I believe RR radiator grill vertical strips were turned to block airflow initiially and then twisted to open once the engine had warmed up.
_________________
Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

[alastairq]

I might be wrong here, but...didn't Jensen offer movable slats on the intake at the front?

Always worried about thermostatic controlled slats ..if they stick?
A piece of cardboard box was more reliable...if indeed it was in the same vein as wire coat hanger aerials?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.