Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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P3steve
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 542 Location: Great Yarmouth, Norfolk
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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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can't you do a disc brake conversion using the uprights from a Morris Marina, that seems to be in vouge at the momment you could use it as a daily driver then
Joking aside have loved following the work you have done, keep it up _________________ If the world didn't suck we'd all fall off |
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Penman
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4766 Location: Swindon, Wilts.
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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
Rdover wrote: | Suffice it to say, under modern legislation, the description of "braking system" would come under some scrutiny by the Court when applying the Trades Descriptions Act.
In an emergency it often mooted that a responsible driver will point his motor as a convenient hedge, away from pedestrians jumping to safety at the last possible moment.
This is NOT a joke |
A slightly earlier variant on LR series 1 then.
Judging by what I have been told by LR afficiandos.
Acceleration and braking is measured with an hourglass. _________________ Bristols should always come in pairs.
Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10 |
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Richard H
Joined: 03 Apr 2009 Posts: 2148 Location: Lincolnshire, UK
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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:12 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like Austin Seven brakes too
Nice work Richard, I'd love something like this one day |
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RotaryBri
Joined: 20 Dec 2007 Posts: 465 Location: Warwick
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Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:05 am Post subject: |
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When I had an Austin Seven I used to refer to the brakes as 'crystal ball brakes' as that was what was needed to know when to push the pedal.
I let this car go in 1967 but it is still going today as seen below but now with hydraulic brakes.
_________________ Keep Torqueing,
RotaryBri
1976 NSU Ro80 |
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Nic Jarman
Joined: 05 Oct 2008 Posts: 1031 Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk
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Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Richard, have you tried these people to see if there is a better compound to try on the brake shoes? I had the Morris and Talbot shoes relined by them and I am impressed with the results.
http://www.autoandindustrial.globalhire.co.uk/index.html
Good luck. _________________ 1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush |
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Rdover
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 413
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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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The problem with the transmission brake is that it is an appalling design and simply does not work as you can't bring enough pressure to bear without breaking something. The rear brakes have a tendency to get fouled by diff oil and there is not a friction material made that works when greased! _________________ Richard |
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Rdover
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 413
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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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Last night, ably assisted by Yogi, the rear axle was refitted with new bolts and the hubs removed ready for stripping and painting but what a hassle it was getting everything lined up and Yogi was mega nervous about working on something that you really can't afford to break!
The problem was getting everything aligned. The usual method is to loosely bolt everything up than align it before nipping it all up but which comes first, the spring perches on the axle, the perches to the springs or the propshaft. Given that it too serious effort to get the prop off, I reckoned getting the prop in place along with the panhard rod was the answer.
Unfortunately I was wrong so we removed the prop, attached the perches to the springs and roughly seated the axle by dropping the car down. I wanted to avoid rotating the axle in the perch clamp in case I ruined the nice paintwork. Once it was roughly in place the prop was still about an inch too high, but solved by dropping the car right onto the axle - thank [insert deity of choice] for hydraulic lifts!
Everything got tightened and adjusted and all sits beautifully and now I can remove the drums to strip and repaint, replace a felt oil seal, clean the brakes and finish up painting the bits of axle more easily done in situ.
To this end, I've just bought a blast cabinet - more toys!
Edited to add
The other night I got the steering wheel, hand throttle and timing control all sorted so once the axle is finished being painted I'll be ready to try and start it. _________________ Richard |
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Rdover
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 413
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Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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Well, today was productive. With the axle fitted I got the hubs off and bead blasted to remove the paint with my new blast cabinet and cleaned and dried with a coat of etch primer. I spent the time drying time tidying and organising the garage, fitting the vice to the bench and wire brushing the rust off it.
With the hubs painted, I had more drying time to kill so a bit of fuel went into the tank and the process of starting it commenced. First I had to determine which way round the kill switch operated so with the HT flashing caps fitted I hoiked the starting handle and got nothing, flicked the switch and got 4 bright flashes in the right order! Lovely. Next I figured out which way was advance, then fully retarded.
Removed the caps, filled the priming pots and worked the handle again and again and finally I was rewarded with the merest hint of a firing. By this time my battery (arm) was getting tired so I called a halt.
Tomorrow it will start, I am sure of it. _________________ Richard |
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pryantcc
Joined: 07 Sep 2009 Posts: 88
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Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Great progress Richard, I hope today and the engine starting goes well! |
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Rdover
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 413
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Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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Well, this morning went well. I started in the sunshine to pit the larch cladding on the garage and after killing 2 drill batteries I left my girlfriend painting the hubs (she loves painting) and I had a go.getting the car started.
It find first time after I remembered switch the kill switch to 'on' and ran for about 30 seconds to a minute. The timing is the opposite of how I thought and it sounds wonderful.
Next is to sort the fuel delivery issue and get her running properly. I am very chuffed. _________________ Richard |
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buzzy bee
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3382 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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Any pics? Not seen the old girl recently! |
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Rdover
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 413
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Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 10:47 am Post subject: |
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She's not really changed since November but once I get the brake shoes cleaned and the hubs reassembled I'll drag her out into the sunshine, give her a clean and take some piccies. _________________ Richard |
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Rdover
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 413
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Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 11:44 am Post subject: |
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I decided to have another wee go at getting her running for more than 3 seconds at a time last night.
First I tested fuel supply by undoing the pipe from the carb then watching it drip and flow freely when I opened the fuel tap on the tank. It does not close fully so a new brass fuel tap is about to be fitted in the engine bay to make sure there are no leaks.
Next the engine was switched on, timing fully retarded (level up on the magneto) choke to fully on and throttle to half. Pots primed, handled hoiked (technical term) and we had some action. Primed again and turned and finally a 3rd time and nothing more than a few puffs.
I closed the choked fully and tried again (in case of being 100% wrong) primed and hoiked and was rewarded by the engine revving into action. Ignition fully advanced, throttle backed off until it warmed up then it ticked over beautifully.
The water level in the radiator soon found it's own level (the excess washing the garage floor), the 2 water weeps closed up and it soon revved perfectly. I'm not convinced the static timing is perfect but it runs well enough for the moment.
Next I'll reassemble the rear axle now fully painted and book in for an MOT.
Happy days
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKD4tsSzo-M _________________ Richard |
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Rdover
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 413
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Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 11:50 am Post subject: |
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Any advice on starting from hot will be gratefully accepted! _________________ Richard |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22477 Location: UK
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