Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[baconsdozen]

The title might be a bit misleading I have my doubts as to wether waxoyl is the best stuff to use but I can't find much in the way of access holes into the sill sections of my P5B.Is it OK to drill access holes ? Where would you suggest?.
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Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired).

[Phil - Nottingham]

Of course but there is better stuff tjhan Waxolye. Drill holes under the sill tread plates
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[WLC4EVA]

.
A step drill gives a neater hole than the normal type of drill Bacon.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=step+drill&_sacat=See-All-Categories

I believe in going in from the end of the sill.
Both ends to be precise, but only one end at a time.
That way, I spray down the length of the cill, and get the hole lot well splattered.
If I'm in a particularly fun mood, I put a sighted grommet in the hole, stuff the end of the gun into the grommetand with it fairly airtight, then I blast diluted Waxoyl and air in at max PSI. the fine mist of Waxyl and dilutant gives me such a good feeling, that my beer tastes much better.
I bug the holes up with a blind grommets, and then gob it over with Waxoyl (or summut else)

Have you seen the Shutz system?
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=waxoyl+shutz&_sacat=0&_odkw=waxoyl&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

Some alternatives here.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=rust+proofing%2C+-waxoyl&_sacat=0&_odkw=rust+proofing&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

Kind Regards, WLC

[Rick]

I'd be inclined to drill from the inside, ie via the inner sill with the carpet removed. That way the grommets you pop into the holes won't be subjected to rain, or muck blasted up from the roadwheels. Therefore less chance of water seeping in via your neatly drilled access holes. This assumes of course that by spraying from inside, the mixture will reach the inner surface of the outer sill. If you're lucky, there may already be apertures let into the inner sill.

As Phil suggests, if you have kickplates, unscrew them and drill downwards to spray inside. With the holes sealed and the kickplates replaced, it'll look as good as new.

Also, try and pick a hot day as it'll flow a lot easier.

RJ
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[baconsdozen]

Thanks for the replies.I'm going to give it a go with diluted Eureka fluid film.The oil rig people near me in lowestoft use it and reckon its good for stopping corrosion.
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Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired).

[Jim.Walker]

Are the Waxoyl pressure pumps still available? They used to come with a thin pipe which appeared to have a NAIL pushed into the end. The result was a spray pattern like a disc. The tube was pushed in from a convenient hole (or made hole) as far as it would go and then withdrawn gently as it sprayed. I did a trial on some odd box sections etc. and the coverage was as near ideal as you could expect from any method. Whether it will work with other products I am unsure. But as my Gentry is still on its original 1968 Triumph Vitesse chassis after being treated in 1984 and after a considerable mileage since, I am well satified with Waxoyl.
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Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!

[emmerson]

Jim, yes the pumps are still available. I bought one recently, but cannot get it to work. How thin does the Waxoyl have to be? It seems to have to be thinned to almost neat white spirit before it will pump.

[Jim.Walker]

Can't answer that Emmerson. It was a long time ago and I used it straight from the tin, pumping it with the Waxoyl pressure unit. I do remember that we had a heat wave at the time (yes honestly, it lasted about 8 weeks in 1984) so that may have thinned it somewhat.
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Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!

[buzzy bee]

Hi

You need to warm it alot to thin it down, or like you say you will end up diluting it to a silly amount with spirits. Spraying a warm wax onto coldish metal, should help it stick when it comes into contact and cools.

I would consider using some of your old motor oil on the underside too, good way to do it, gets rid of your oil, and seems to do a good job, at least it does on my mates landrovers, and they normally rot well! Just use a shutz gun in a paint kettle.

Cheers

Dave

[baconsdozen]

Some people reckon that old oil contains acids which encourage rust,but sumps don't rust inside and mini front sub frames seldom go rusty,they get covered in oil yet the back ones which don't used to rust out very quickly.
We had a professor come round the factory where I was an apprentice,he was brought in as a corrosion expert,he reckoned that oil with a few squirts of detergent in it to make it sticky was a good almost cost free rust preventer.
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Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired).

[Nic Jarman]

The 82 year old oil that came out of the Morris 8 diff is very sticky. I am saving it for a special occassion.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[Jim.Walker]

[Kelsham]

When I was a young man I owned a Renault Dauphine, It rusted before my eyes.
My best friend at the time was dating a French girl, one evening in the Wimpy bar I brought up the subject of inferior French tin.

She expressed surprise. Had I been taking proper care of the Dauphine she enquired. In France we spray the underside with waste oil once a year that protects the body. I had to admit that I had showered it with filler and Valspar paint, but had neglected plastering the underbody in oil.

She managed to convey in passable English that the French were superior engineers.
Her Father disliked the British so my friend had even less luck with her.

She returned to France soon after and probably laughed with her Father at the British, for expecting a car to survive a Winter without being soused in oil.

[Rick]

Looking at its underside, my A35 has had copious drownings in old engine oil and structurally it seems to be virtually as sound as it was in '59.

Conversely, years ago dad had one of the first Saab Turbos. He regularly sprayed old engine oil inside the front arches, and it rotted for, err, Sweden.

We came to the totally-unscientific conclusion that it depended on how hard the oil had been worked, ie in the turbo engine, it'd had a tough life given the extra work it had to do keeping the turbo cool and lubricated. Therefore perhaps it had begun to get acidic???? Like I say, no idea of the science but that was how it appeared.

The oil in the A35, if it had been changed regularly, probably hadn't had chance to deteriorate to the same extent as that in the Saab, so maybe wouldn't be a problem underneath a car's bodywork.

Anyway, I still mix up some old engine oil with Waxoyl, and a drop of old petrol to thin it and help it "search" better, and it doesn't seem to be doing any harm.

R
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[Richard H]

I did this on my A35, splashed oil around the underside when I changed it last, although it still needed welding for the last MOT. To be fair though, I don't think it was very solid before I applied the oil...
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Richard Hughes