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drdean

Joined: 05 Mar 2008 Posts: 37
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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:50 am Post subject: Jamming in gear |
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Hi All
I have a 1957 103E Sidevalve Pop Special. I had a 'funny' happen last year that I'm hoping someone may also know about.
I was about to drive the car onto a trailer and selected first gear (down and to the left for the non sidevalvers). If you know these cars then you'll know that it sometimes takes a bit of effort to get into first. So after a bit of struggling, the gearstick went into first. I realised afterwards that it had seemed to 'over travel' fractionally.
I drove the car up onto the trailer but then couldn't get it out of first gear!!! The gear lever seemed to have jammed in (or just beyond first gear). No matter how hard I pushed on the gearstick the damn thing wouldn't come out of gear. I had to keep the clutch down to disengage the gear and just switched off the engine. Then when I got home I managed to roll it back off the ramp with the clutch down.
Anyway I took the top off the gearbox housing and had to use a gentle persuasion tool (hammer) to hit the top of the housing and eventually freed what I guess was a gear box selector finger from the hole that it disappears into in the back of the clutch housing. Once off, I started fiddling with the gear selector but couldn't really see anything wrong with it. Nothing seemed wrong in the clutch housing and nothing wrong with the selector forks. Odd.
I put everything back together and it all seems fine again now but I do cautiously select first gear now and try not to ram it in.
Any ideas what might have happened here. I never did get to the bottom of it.
Cheers
Dean |
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rustyreks
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 44
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:42 am Post subject: handy hints for the ford 10 |
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The best advice i can share is that the ford 10 handbook is a most excellent and practical book that covers maintenace repair and servicing includes decarbs and timing setting points and much more of the ford 10 power pack even hints on running in and how to tell if your bearings are too tight and testing compression in your cylinders all basic stuff one of the best publications i have read for the everyday motorist that loves old cars a must buy book..well worth owning and not expensive to own
brentnz
here is a link to the book that i am speaking of ..
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Books/Nonfiction/Transport/Cars/auction-148594282.htm
The problem with the first gear happened to me on another model car i suspect that the thrust bearing travelled to far forward and jameed and that was the only thing that seemed to out of order.I like the look of your ford beautiful condition and great color choice brentnz |
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JR FLYWHEEL
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 77 Location: Hornchurch Essex
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 7:42 pm Post subject: JAMMING IN GEAR.......... |
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Hello Dean,
Ive been looking in my own book for an answer to your problem, but still no luck; sorry mate.
The only gearbox problems i can remember, happened to me on an Mk1 escort..gear-lever came away in my hand, and a dreaded Hillman imp....the gear lever remote spring mashed itself up, leaving me with just reverse gear. (happy memories)
Having a "pop" myself i'm interested if this has ever happened to anyone else.
regards flywheel ( john)
gearbox picture from my own book
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img] |
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Craig
Joined: 19 Mar 2008 Posts: 80 Location: Frome, Somerset
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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Want to lower your pop?
No?
Well i'll show you anyway.
First up, take the spring off and remove all the leaves. Then put the bottom leaf on the floor or a piece of card like i did....
Mark the original curve out on the floor/card. Then gently bend the leaf the other way. I used a flypress and some upside down vee blocks. Keep bending untill you have met the original curve which you should of marked out earlier....
The ends of the second biggest leaf will need grinding back as they will hit the eyes. Then put it all back together using plenty of grease.
That's it, a reversed eye spring. You might want to cut half inch off the bump stops after. |
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Craig
Joined: 19 Mar 2008 Posts: 80 Location: Frome, Somerset
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Posted: Sat May 17, 2008 10:06 am Post subject: |
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| Just remembered the petrol pump design disaster! If the diaphram splits it'll let fuel into the sump. So for the sake of 7-8 quid it's worth changing. Also make sure when you put the pump back on make sure it's the correct side of the cam by running the lever up the block. If you get it wrong you will snap the lever off. |
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JR FLYWHEEL
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 77 Location: Hornchurch Essex
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Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 1:05 pm Post subject: as posted |
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Hi Craig,
Thanks for the tip about the fuel pump. I must admit i'd not heard about that particular problem before.
I will get my camera out soon and post a picture of my own fuel pump with that ali sheild over it. ( stops the dreaded fuel vapours)
I hope your motor is running well, when you get time post some more pictures please.
Any other tips you can recall are most welcome.
Regards
JRF  |
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Rick Site Admin

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22811 Location: UK
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JR FLYWHEEL
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 77 Location: Hornchurch Essex
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Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 7:08 pm Post subject: as posted |
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Ok Rick noted, thank you.
JRF  |
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Rick Site Admin

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22811 Location: UK
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JR FLYWHEEL
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 77 Location: Hornchurch Essex
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Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 4:03 pm Post subject: AS POSTED |
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Thanks for posting rick. I look forward to seeing the others you have.
JRF  |
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JR FLYWHEEL
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 77 Location: Hornchurch Essex
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Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 4:20 pm Post subject: As posted |
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| Craig wrote: | | Just remembered the petrol pump design disaster! If the diaphram splits it'll let fuel into the sump. So for the sake of 7-8 quid it's worth changing. Also make sure when you put the pump back on make sure it's the correct side of the cam by running the lever up the block. If you get it wrong you will snap the lever off. |
Hi Craig,
I'm posting my pictures which show the pop's engine bay. ( you can see the fuel pump below with the shield fitted) Ive also included a couple of other pictures in close up. The aluminum sheild does a great job preventing the dreaded petrol vapours. I have seen other motors that dont suffer from this problem, and ive spoken to a great number of other owners. (at least this sheild idea works ok for my little motor.)
Regards
JRF.
[img]
[/img]
[/img]
[img] [/img] |
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Rick Site Admin

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22811 Location: UK
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JR FLYWHEEL
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 77 Location: Hornchurch Essex
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:29 pm Post subject: as posted |
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Hi Rick, Interesting mod that one. I'll show my pals this picture.
JRF |
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ka

Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 600 Location: Orkney.
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 8:59 am Post subject: The Big Bang |
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Out of interest does anyone know the maximum RPM you can push a standard sidevalve to without it going bang?
From my experience if you chage gear when the power drops off, and even if you drive flat out in top, the engine revs are limited by the engines inability to breath efficiently(about 4000rpm, as maxm power was rated at 3800prm)If you are intending to drive the car fast, the temperature will rise and the oil pressure drops to the point where the white metal bearings fail, a balancing act to learn.
The rumour was that when the M1 opened, and people were allowed to take the family saloon for a flat out blast (no speed limit then!) this marked the end of thermo-syphon and white metal big ends, and moved engine design forward.
KA |
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pigtin
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 1879 Location: Herne Bay
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 9:51 am Post subject: |
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The old Austin seven sidevalve engine could be pushed beyond 6000rpm with a bit of tuning.
Don. |
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