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Sill replacement costs
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fuff66uk



Joined: 20 Jun 2011
Posts: 42
Location: Mansfield,Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:59 pm    Post subject: Sill replacement costs Reply with quote

I realise this question depends on what is found but can anyone give me a rough price guide for the replacement of an inner and outer sill on a classic ford please.I can get the panels but not sure my welding is up to standard to do the job myself

Thanks
Al
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RobMoore



Joined: 16 Jan 2011
Posts: 105
Location: Peterlee

PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for the weling alone your looking at anything upwards of £200 a side, depends on the complexity (inners outers etc) tbh if you can grind have a go yourself, brace your door gaps to add strength before cutting out, even pird poos can grind smooth Smile
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fuff66uk



Joined: 20 Jun 2011
Posts: 42
Location: Mansfield,Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobMoore wrote:
for the weling alone your looking at anything upwards of £200 a side, depends on the complexity (inners outers etc) tbh if you can grind have a go yourself, brace your door gaps to add strength before cutting out, even pird poos can grind smooth Smile


Do i just brace at the bottom of the door opening just above the sill ? I assume i would need to brace the front and rear door ? Tbh it was the bracing and door gaps that was bothering me
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 2711
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basically if you weld some sturdy metal across the bottom of the gaps that should do it - the idea is to make sure nothing moves when you cut out the sill section that holds it all in place. You really want to take the doors off as well so there isn't so much weight on the pillars.

Don't put the bracing too far down, remember you need access for cutting and welding the new bits in. And use something that won't easily bend, too, bit of old Dexion upright (other makes of shelving are available).
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fuff66uk



Joined: 20 Jun 2011
Posts: 42
Location: Mansfield,Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike,that's a great help,i think i'll have a go myself when i get the panels then,plus when the weather is nice enough,i wish i had a garage it's a pain doing everything on the front drive lol
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fuff66uk



Joined: 20 Jun 2011
Posts: 42
Location: Mansfield,Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would a spot weld attatchment for an arc welder such as the one below be a good way to go ?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Spot-Welder-connects-arc-welder-spot-weld-/250852718060?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a67fcb5ec
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 2711
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't used one of those, I read a lot on the mig-welding forum and reports are not good. For replicating spot welds I tend to use a plug technique, so drill a suitable hole in the top panel, clamp it up and weld through to the other side, then clean off afterwards. Arc welders aren't really suitable for welding car bodywork because the steel is too thing, you need a MIG and some practice.

If you want some inspiration (and have plenty of time to spare) have a look through this thread: http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=usetharch&action=display&thread=70135 - the quality of work on there is amazing.
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fuff66uk



Joined: 20 Jun 2011
Posts: 42
Location: Mansfield,Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MikeEdwards wrote:
I haven't used one of those, I read a lot on the mig-welding forum and reports are not good. For replicating spot welds I tend to use a plug technique, so drill a suitable hole in the top panel, clamp it up and weld through to the other side, then clean off afterwards. Arc welders aren't really suitable for welding car bodywork because the steel is too thing, you need a MIG and some practice.

If you want some inspiration (and have plenty of time to spare) have a look through this thread: http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=usetharch&action=display&thread=70135 - the quality of work on there is amazing.


That link is awesome Mike,if i can make half as good a job as that i'll be well happy.I am definitely going to have a go at it myself i can't wait to get it here now to asses all the work needed,it is going to be a very long project due to funds being permanently low so parts will be sourced as & when i can afford them but i guess that will make me appreciate the end result even more
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