Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Dave Retired]

I have sand blasted 5 spoked wheels for MG restoration project.

There is still some slight pitting around the spoke nipples how would you approach this? I was going to try and find some type of rust killer to go around these parts and then paint.

As I am not a painter (more mechanic) if any of you could advise me of the procedure and products you would use I would be grateful.

Reading about BH products on here sounds interesting any feedback welcome.

[bob2]

When you say there is still some pitting, is it the pitting left after the blasting where rust had formed or there is still small rusty pittings on the wheels?

I am not a painter but the way I'd do it if its the former is phosphoric acid on all the wheels, then etching primer. primer and paint!!
or else instead of paint powder coating but if you paint ypurself will be cheaper!
If the latter, clean all the rust with a wire brush and then do the rest that I said above.

[Bitumen Boy]

Not only is paint cheaper than powder coating, in my experience it's the better protective coating. The problem with powder coating is that depite claims to the contrary, it does get chipped and penetrated - but it's fairly strong in itself and rust can work away underneath an apparently sound coating for a long time before it becomes apparent. Paint will at least chip properly and show an obvious rust stain that you can treat and refinish before it becomes a problem, I know it's not much fun but I reckon that's the lesser of the two evils!

[clan chieftain]

My estate is going to have to get a repaint as it was a right botch job 2 years ago.More and more places are only selling water based and I have been told it wouldnt look right on a classic car. Is that true as I also know nothing about paint. It was painted with 2 pack last time but I have been told this is illegal now and some places dont sell it.
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The Clan Chieftain

[ajlelectronics]

If you have had 2 pack on it, then you will not really notice the difference with water based. The paint is only the colour, it then has a 2 pack lacquer applied. Bodyshops can still do 2 pack or cellulose if they want to, but it makes more commercial sense not to. My local bodyshop is doing a 2 pack job for me today and in the last month has done a full respray in a new type of 2 pack, which I didn't get the full details of.

[Roger-hatchy]

It is getting harder to get some types of paint.

I had trouble getting the paint for the DLM in 2009 as it was only available to the trade.

They even go to the point of occasional visits the premises of the buyer to check.

[clan chieftain]

What would you recommend I get the car painted with or should I get the painter to get it for me.?
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The Clan Chieftain

[ajlelectronics]

If you are going to paint it yourself, there is only one choice. Cellulose. If being done in a bodyshop, then water based or two pack will be fine.
Cellulose paint can be obtained at many bodyshop suppliers or even mail order from the likes of Jawel Paints. It is very forgiving and if you make a complete pig's ear of it, you can remedy it once hard.

For alloy wheels, it would be best to use a spray etch primer first, something like Upol #8 I think. Then silver wheel paint on top will make them look smart. Laquer if you wish to finish.

[clan chieftain]

Thanks very much for the information.
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The Clan Chieftain

[ukdave2002]

[clan chieftain]

This guy must have slept with a painter Dave. Honesly what a mess. its ok from a distance about 100 yards away I am going to save up over the winter and get it done properly.
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The Clan Chieftain