Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[petermeachem]

What I mean is not inadvertently spraying everything else in the vicinity.
I'm going to paint the car in the garage. I was going to hang poly sheets up to prevent it going all over the place. I read I need to have a door open or I won't be able to see well. What I am concerned about is a cloud of paint descending on other things outside.
I'm not sure if I am getting over anxious here, I helped to spray the midget in a large single garage. We had the door shut and a small cloud left the garage when we did, but I don't recall it making a mess. I was thinking of opening the garage back door as that faces the garden instead of the house and is a bit more remote from the cars in the old peoples flats next door but that means moving a lot of stuff in the garage to get the inward opening door to open.
I'm going to be using cellulose and a lvlp gun, apparently much less waste and lower compressor requirements
Am I worrying about nothing?
Still shifting paint/rust, just thinking ahead

[colwyn500]

I think you are maybe getting a little over anxious. The fact that you are thinking about it means you probably won't go far wrong.
You are mirroring my thought patterns with that HVLP but just think about the implication; yes, less paint wastage but you will be needing more air. That means you probably need a higher capacity and more powerful compressor.
Thus defeating the objective somewhat.
* IGNORE* Just noticed :"LVLP" Sorry

[ukdave2002]

I spray with 2 pack ;using a DeVibiss GTi PRO, 1.3 tip ,T2 air cap. Great gun easy to use, but overspray in a normal garage gets on everything not covered!

I'm not sure what setup you have, but the larger the gun pressure and tip, generally the more overspray. in the days when I had a small hobby gun and sprayed cellulose it was never a problem.

Dave

[petermeachem]

I don't have anything (compressor) yet, next job on the list. That's why I was thinking small and slow and an lvlp gun

[ukdave2002]

Peter

There are some amazing compressor / gun deals around these days , don't be put off because it's made in China! Yes it may not last in a pro body shop, and it may not put paint on as quick, but so what ?

Keep us posted with your progress

Dave

[petermeachem]

Absolutely. My daughters boyfriend who is a roofer was most scathing about my £12 electric battery drill. Point being I don't use it all day so it was last me ages. He'd wreck it in a week.

[ukdave2002]

[petermeachem]

Currently checking ebay.
Interesting about the cheap drills.

[baconsdozen]

I'd rather have a second hand quality tool than a cheap new DIY type one at the same price. I had a brand new cheapo grinder (not mine) put me in hospital once,twenty odd stiches and a skin graft.
I reckon you get what you pay for.
_________________
Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired).

[colwyn500]

We're getting a long way from the original subject and we have definitely had these opposing views previously.
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13227&highlight=

[vitesse]

It's one of the main reasons I decided not to spray my 500. I paid about £13k for my garage about 18 months ago and I really could see it getting covered in the dust from over spray despite putting up sheeting to stop it. It's one of those wooden slated ones that slot together, so there are so many dust traps.

It's also double glazed so stays nice and warm inside with the heater on.

[petermeachem]

I'm going for the plastic sheeting option. When I/we sprayed the Midget I didn't end up with a red garage and didn't use any sheeting at all.

[baconsdozen]

I remember reading about a sprayer who had to spray a car in a hurry in a workshop full of cars and equipment. It was a replacement car brought in after the original had been written off,everything had to be done in a hurry to avoid wasting film time. They used cellulose for speed.
He used washing up liquid and water mixed as masking on glass and bumpers and on stuff they couldn't cover and when finished just hosed it all down.The car was only used filmed from a distance and with a change of number plates was good enough. I had to do some spraying outside a while back and sprayed the ground and anything close enough (mainly the wifes car) to catch overspray . Afterwards it all washed off
_________________
Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired).

[ka]

I had worked in a body shop for twenty odd years until retirement.
The 'old' hand remembered using vaseline to mask out areas, which was wiped away when the paint dried. This is not all that changed.
We used to use celly based primer and top coat, and depending on the ambient temperature, heating in the booth,but things moved on. With the introduction of two-pack this required better air fed systems to the paint sprayers mask(filters do not filter-out the isocyanates contained in the chemicals used in those paints) and the overspray was drawn from the booth, and filtered through pads and water baths before being allowed into the atmosphere.
If you are going to have a go, the following may help:
1) use good quality masking tape, as the cheap stuff will not roll around bends as well, rips easily, and is an absolute pig to remove after drying,
2)if you are going to sheet your garage, seal the gaps well, but remember their does need to be an air flow as visibility is severely compromised,
3) celly paint uses thinners to reduce it's thickness. Thinners are not just flammable, but explosive when sprayed, so if you are going to paint in the winter, don't. Wait for the warmer summer days to paint, otherwise the flow runs in the paint will look like larva.
4) even celly based paints kill you, use the best carbon-based filters in your mask you can, life without kidneys and liver can be tedious, and quite short.
I see you were looking at low volume, low pressure. There is an static based system that positively charges the object to be painted, and negatively charges the paint gun, all at low voltage. This electrical based system means that most of the paint goes to the charged item, not in the air. If you have not brought anything yet, may be worth some research, even if it is more pricey, after use you can always sell it on.
I would also lacquer the base paint when tack-dry. When it is all cured, 1200 grit wet and dry, rub against each other to get rid of the high spots, is great to rub the vehicle down, flattening off the top clear lacquer, so that when you power polish afterwards, you get a flat mirror finish.
Finally anything more than aerosols requires dust extraction systems, spray booths etc, the local council H + S person will not look too sympathetically at even private use, so, if you do intend to paint, keep the door closed, this at least contains the overspray issue, if you choose to go down the LPLV route.

Best of luck!
_________________
KA

Better three than four.

[petermeachem]

I don't think lvlp is the same as electrostatic painting.

This looks good to me, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj6kJ8Js3G8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyPEQmcn-tE