Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Rootes75]

I am at the stage now where I want to spray my classic commercial that I have spent 7 years restoring. I have dabbled with the spray gun in the past but nothing major, I now want to spray both the chassis and cab of the lorry but I am not sure what primers/paints would be best.

I am not looking at a concours spray job and I don't want to buy the cheapest paints on the market. Does anyone have any advice on a good primer / top coat combination?

[ajlelectronics]

Use a good quality Epoxy primer first. That will be an excellent base for the top coat of your choice. Although Epoxy primer is 2 part, it does not contain isocyanates. It can also be rollered on if you are so inclined. Jotun is a well known name, but there are others of course.
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[Rootes75]

I have been told that Cellulose is probably best for someone starting out, and upon reading up on it that maybe sounds right.

I have had a recommendation of 'Jawel' paints, has anyone else used paint from them?

[MikeEdwards]

I sprayed the under-bonnet area on a car with Jawel cellulose, no problems that I can blame on the paint. I am not an experienced sprayer by any means so there were issues, but mainly due to me trying to cut corners.

[peppiB]

I have used Jawel for 7 years or so, both cellulose and 2K. Great service and colour matching

[ajlelectronics]

[colwyn500]

Just to avoid confusion, most home restorers seem to go for epoxy primer as the first coat over metal...two-pack but only like Araldite is 2-pack. Next would be your cellulose primer followed by cellulose topcoat.

[spraydav]

It's best to pick one paint system and stick to it, as the primers are developed to work with the topcoats etc. mixing and matching epoxys with cellulose or acrylics or polyeurethanes can cause problems such as reactions or no inter-coat adhesion. Sounds like you've got a large vehicle?? I used to paint wagons with polyeurethane, (no activators so reasonably safe if you use a good mask) and it stays wet long enough to get a decent finish- Call into your local bodyshop suppliers and ask what commercial paints they sell, most places are pretty helpful if you tell them what you're doing, good luck!! Dave

[colwyn500]

Good advice about sticking with one manufacturer. Epoxy might be the exception. Everything I read points to it being effectively inert once cured.and I have found that it's not part of the professionals'normal system because they don't need its ability to keep rust at bay even when not topcoated. It is definitely more of a boat paint but that means it must make sense for our cars. I'm sure it must be what they use on the Forth Railway Bridge. PS. There is speculation that it was something like Jotamastic, an epoxy with aluminium flakes in it, although the bridge paint has glass flakes.

[Rootes75]

Thanks for the tips Gents.

My gut feel is to use Jawel paints and if using cellulose use an appropriate primer from the same supplier. The chassis of the lorry is already sprayed with a couple of coats of red oxide so I would like to put a coat or two of cellulose primer on top of that before spraying any top coats.

[ukdave2002]

I have done a fair bit of painting; the best advice I could give you is to find a local friendly paint supplier.

Choosing the paint is only one part of the process, and only one of may materials that you will need to complete the job. The supplier will give you loads of advice and help recommend what products and combinations to use.

There is quite a big mark up on paint and consumables...local suppliers will do you a better face to face deal

Dave

[MikeEdwards]

[colwyn500]

[spraydav]

[Roger-hatchy]