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Why not weld up seams instead of using sealant?
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rcx822



Joined: 31 Dec 2010
Posts: 112

PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great stuff Old Wrench, thanks and glad I opened this topic.
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France

PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Hi old wrench

I think brazing is very underrated by many restorers, a lot less heat is involved and the equipment is much cheaper, as with gas you can really see what's going on Smile

I braze quite a lot of stuff...

Dave


Also what is forgotten or ignored, Dave, is spot welds or MIG tacks every so often are far less robust than a continuous seam of braze.

On a double curvature panel, typically a wing, welding heat will relieve the press strains/rolling and wheeling strains (If the panel is repro) and cause significant distortion.

After all, such panels have been formed by persuading a flat sheet of mild steel into a curved shape: which it resists! However that resistance to bend has been captured in the crystalline metal and constantly seeks to un-deform itself.
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the moral of the question is;
either gas weld/braze,
Mig (or TIG if you can)
or flexible seal.
Bit like the Independence vote in Scotland, it is all a matter of view!
_________________
KA

Better three than four.
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ka wrote:
So the moral of the question is;
either gas weld/braze,
Mig (or TIG if you can)
or flexible seal.
Bit like the Independence vote in Scotland, it is all a matter of view!


Gas Braze seams: and MIG otherwise.

We even (often!) used to Spot Braze, by cleaning off the under panel of all spot welds and drilling 1/4" holes in the new panel and then carefully puddling the bronze filler into and underneath the hole.

"Cut and Shut" joints, such as "Capping" a damaged car by the simple expedient of cutting all the roof pillars and joining to a reclaimed roof assembly, were always gas welded. Mainly since with delicate joins it was much easier to control the "Puddle".

Also, I always used to cut up the existing and replacement pillar into its separate components: i.e. the outside section; the inner middle piece and the inside section. This way the strain line was spread across three sections, plus filleting and scarfing in the outside closing section, produced a much cleaner and stronger weld joint.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4106
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any of you who are interested in bodywork repair, might consider David Gardiner's excellent DVD, where he demonstrates how to create repair sections and new panels just using basic tools.

http://www.metalshapingzone.com/

Cheers

Dave
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