Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sun May 14, 2023 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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Bitumen Boy wrote: |
I wouldn't call a dowel plate a "fancy" tool though... ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
![Laughing](images/smiles/icon_lol.gif) |
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norustplease
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Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 779 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Mon May 15, 2023 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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Just a quick word of warning, PVA isn't necessarily water resistant. If you look at the packaging you can see that some is suitable for interior use and some for exterior. The Gorilla Glue advertised on t'telly seems to be very effective as there is an exterior grade that is advertised as soaking into the materials to be joined (if permeable). _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon May 15, 2023 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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norustplease wrote: | Just a quick word of warning, PVA isn't necessarily water resistant. If you look at the packaging you can see that some is suitable for interior use and some for exterior. The Gorilla Glue advertised on t'telly seems to be very effective as there is an exterior grade that is advertised as soaking into the materials to be joined (if permeable). |
Thanks, but I have only used wood hardener.
(As it happens I do have some water proof PVA.) |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu May 25, 2023 11:07 pm Post subject: |
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Lately, I have been experiencing a fuel starvation issue. The other day, the normally reliable Trundles decided to stop in the road at the bottom of our drive - as if to say " I don't like that climb up to the garage and I am staying here"
On checking the float chamber I was not surprised to find it completely empty; indicating a supply issue.
I disconnected the pipe from the carb and checked to see if it was clear; it was. The filter was also clean.
Then, with a catch can at the ready and the petrol tap at the tank turned on, I collected a generous supply of petrol but just in case there was a problem inside the tank, I removed it from the car (just two wood screws) and investigated. I also removed the tap which checked out O.K. The ethanol proof tank sealant (TOPAX) was still in good condition and showed no signs of flaking off so I surmised the problem had to be at the carb end.
Could the needle valve somehow get stuck onto it's seat?
In the Zenith FZB up draught carburettor the needle is attached to the float chamber lid and passes through the middle of a brass float. When the float rises with the petrol in the chamber, it operates a simple mechanism to close off the valve with the needle.
I couldn't see how the needle could stick in the "shut" position as everything was working as it should. However, when I went to remove the valve from the bottom of the float chamber, I noticed it was loose. Very loose.
What had happened was the valve had unscrewed itself and gradually unthreaded it's way up to the needle; shutting off the petrol supply in the process.
With the needle valve tightened down normal service has been resumed.
With Austin Sevens it is usually something simple. ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri May 26, 2023 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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My original optimism has been dashed today as the intermittent fuel starvation problem is still there. Two options are a blocked vent in the filler cap (easy fix) or a foreign body floating in the the tank. (not so easy).
My frustration was made worse with the realisation that the door hinge repair has failed.
I can see me having to undo the delicate interior trim to get to the frame. I expect it needs a bracket to hold the door pillar to the roof and a more substantial repair to the hinge area. |
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bjacko
Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Posts: 362 Location: Melbourne Australia
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Posted: Sat May 27, 2023 8:17 am Post subject: MG TC |
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If the MG is loke a Morris there is no vent in the cap but a hole under a plate on top of the tank _________________ 1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat May 27, 2023 11:11 am Post subject: Re: MG TC |
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bjacko wrote: | If the MG is loke a Morris there is no vent in the cap but a hole under a plate on top of the tank |
As my old Maths teacher used to say
"pay attention at there back, there."
You are on the Austin Swallow thread !!
There is a vent in the lid and it is clear ( I can blow through it) . The tank on these Austin Sevens is gravity fed - much like a motorbike.
I had a further set back last night when an old carburettor repair failed. Mazak - of course - and brittle as hell. This time a screw literally "fell off" into the palm of my hand. It is supposed to locate the slow running tube.
I have this morning emailed Steve Hodgson who restores these old Zenith carbs and asked for a quote.
I also have a bronze Zenith FZ up draught carb (same as the Mazak one but better made) and although I don't like departing from original - especially with the Swallow - I may ask him to refurbish that one instead of the FZB because it is so much more robust.
Note: the FZB is Mazak and the FZ is bronze. Counter intuitive but true! ![Surprised](images/smiles/icon_surprised.gif) |
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Vulgalour
Joined: 08 May 2018 Posts: 474 Location: Kent
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Posted: Sat May 27, 2023 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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That dowel door repair is going to come in handy, I need to do that on the driver's door latch on the Lanchester, door side rather than A post side. Helped me see how it's done so thanks for posting about that. |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue May 30, 2023 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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This is a problem familiar to many Austin Seven owners. These Zenith up draught carbs are made of muck metal - otherwise known as Mazak - and they all go at the same place. What happens is that the screw holding the slow running device is over tightened and the collar breaks off. Mine has been like it for as long as I can remember and I have patched it up several times.
When an old repair failed again I decided to take the easy way out and swap the carb for a bronze one that I have had knocking about for years.
Apart from cleaning it up, I swapped over the good bits from the damaged carb. These included the needle valve, the seat of which I ensured would be a good seal by mounting it - and the needle - in my lathe. I used some metal polish to get a good seat.
The choke flap and lever on the bronze carb was a home made affair and pretty crude, so I changed it and the lever. I replaced the split pins with new but the flap return spring from the Mazak carb was usable. Getting the spring set to return the flap to it's open position was more fiddly than difficult.
I swapped the spring steel clip that holds the float chamber lid; the bob weights in the lid were good so they stayed.
I also swapped over the slow running device because it had been over lightened at some time and split at the end...a common finding.
The main and compensating jets were different so I have swapped them over too. I have 0.70mm for the main and 0.75 for the compensating which seems to be the normal combination.
The correct round head brass screw for locating the slow running jet and the brass adjuster lock nut were also both transferred.
A good clean up and the replacement carb is ready to go.
Whether or not the engine will perform as it should is yet to be established. |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed May 31, 2023 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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At the time of writing I have to report one or two niggles with fitting the carb.
After ensuring the surfaces were perfectly flat, I made a gasket using the correct paper. I used hole punches for accuracy then cut it to shape. I de greased all the surfaces and applied a little Wellseal before fitting to the manifold.
Unfortunately, There is insufficient room under the top flange (on one side) for a nut AND a spring washer. I am not happy with just a couple of brass nuts to hold the carb to the manifold; I suppose I could use a dab of thread lock?
Another difference is that the bronze flange is thicker than the Mazak one which might mean finding some slightly longer BSF bolts.
Also, the slight difference in carb body length means the existing rod for operating the choke is slightly too short so I will have to make a new one. |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jun 01, 2023 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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The "new" carb is now fitted to Trundles and I must say it looks nice. I have managed to get it set up in the garage...but what will it will be like on the road ? I know it prefers to be run on E5 petrol.
These old Zenith carbs were originally tuned by switching to different size jets...but of course today's user has to make do and mend. As this carb is using the jets from my old carb I am hopeful that the performance should be similar.
One potential improvement should come from the butterfly spindle which compared with the Mazak has very little wear; no more disguising the potential cause of a lean mixture with blobs of grease!
On a different matter, I was pleased (to say the least) to see the dynamo is now charging as it should. I had been worrying that the ammeter was only showing "charge" at high revs. It is now switching from discharge to charge at a much more sensible engine speed. This may have been related to the loss of residual magnetism - caused by a long period of inactivity - which I have rectified by "flashing" the dynamo field coils. This involves taking a cable from the battery positive terminal (- earth) to the dynamo for a short time with the engine running.
I may have mentioned (a long time ago) that my car is fitted with a later 'Ruby' dynamo which is regarded as a much better instrument. However, it lacks the built in resistor for the Summer/Winter charge setting but I have resolved that issue by adding an auxiliary resistor; better that, than overcharging the battery.! |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1954 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2023 8:38 am Post subject: |
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Splendid stuff.
I do wonder why Trundles runs smoother on E5 rather than E10?
Mind, I have only used SU carbs, which are more user friendly with regards to mixture settings than fixed jet carbs. Not that I've had to reset mixtures!
Will we see you resorting to 'numbered' drills when fine tuning the jet sizes? _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2023 10:43 am Post subject: |
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alastairq wrote: | Splendid stuff.
Will we see you resorting to 'numbered' drills when fine tuning the jet sizes? |
If needs be. Fortunately I have a complete range of metric size small drills... but there is much to be said for leaving well alone.
I note, however, that Zenith have always stressed that one should not ream, drill or otherwise alter their jet sizes but in the absence of any factory replacements what is one supposed to do???. I see nothing wrong in soldering over the hole and starting again if needs be.
As it happens, jet sizes go up or down by increments of 0.05mm.
I have two other main jets which measure 0.70 and 0.75 respectively and another two compensating jets; 0.70 and 0.75 ...and that's it!
These Jets do turn up from time to time but not often.
Why does Trundles go better on E5?
I think it is because Austin Sevens always try to please their parsimonious owners by getting the most possible MPG and E5 gives you that.
. ![Razz](images/smiles/icon_razz.gif) |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1954 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2023 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | I think it is because Austin Sevens always try to please their parsimonious owners by getting the most possible MPG and E5 gives you that. |
Odd that! Especially when one considers that a lot of E10 fuel doesn't contain anything like as much ethanol as 10%.....So might just contain only as much as E5....
Personally I cannot tell the difference...in fuel consumption...maybe less than half a mile per gallon?
Heck, one slightly over-enthusiastic right foot for a brief instant can achieve that!
E10 will make even a Seven motor run more smoothly below 3000 rpms, so, having a slightly smoother engine might encourage a tad more right footed enthusiasm?
E85 on the other hand, sounds very much like what Trundles would have been fed on pre-the ''Wawer ?''
I think we need to consider making whatever adaptations to our motors as are necessary to accommodate today's, and future, fuels? _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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Ray White
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Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2023 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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I think we must face the possibility that the future for petrol - of any kind - is bleak.
I just go with the flow. If it gets too scarce or too expensive then that is life. ![Sad](images/smiles/icon_sad.gif) |
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