Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Ellis
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Posts: 1386 Location: Betws y Coed, North Wales
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 10:13 pm Post subject: Walnut effect transfers/dipping |
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Can someone help me out with something please.
I have restored most of the wood trim parts of my 1964 Jaguar Mark 2 but some of the smaller pieces are problematic.
The quality of the veneering was not good even when new and age has taken it's toll. The items that really need redoing are the "A", "B" post trim panels and the "hockeysticks" - the wood/walnut trim above the doors.
The base wood is in good order but the veneering is cracked or split in places.
I have heard of walnut effect transfers which could solve the problem without going to the trouble of reveneering.
I also saw a glimpse of the finished result on "Wheeler Dealers" where this transfer system was used on the damaged wooden trim of their American restorations.
Does anybody know about this process, please?
The only references I have seen are US in origin and advertisments only on US Ebay.
Thank you. _________________ Starting Handle Expert
1964 Jaguar Mark 2 3.4 litre
1962 Land Rover Series 2a 88"
2002 BMW M3 E46 Cabriolet |
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Old Wrench

Joined: 23 Dec 2013 Posts: 226 Location: Essex and France
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:58 am Post subject: Re: Walnut effect transfers/dipping |
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| Ellis wrote: | Can someone help me out with something please.
I have restored most of the wood trim parts of my 1964 Jaguar Mark 2 but some of the smaller pieces are problematic.
The quality of the veneering was not good even when new and age has taken it's toll. The items that really need redoing are the "A", "B" post trim panels and the "hockeysticks" - the wood/walnut trim above the doors.
The base wood is in good order but the veneering is cracked or split in places.
I have heard of walnut effect transfers which could solve the problem without going to the trouble of reveneering.
I also saw a glimpse of the finished result on "Wheeler Dealers" where this transfer system was used on the damaged wooden trim of their American restorations.
Does anybody know about this process, please?
The only references I have seen are US in origin and advertisments only on US Ebay.
Thank you. |
The whole point about Jaguar's Burr Walnut facias and capping, is real wood veneer, finished with French Polish.
Unless the surface is suffering multiple cracks and splits, much veneer can be re-glued and the surface defects, filled, stained and re-polished.
There are numerous specialists online.
The concept of transfers makes me think of some of the appalling Ford dashboards on such as the ugly Ford Granada MK I and its Fablon dash!
Yuk and yuk again!
Wheeler Dealers is a programme I utterly despise: a mouthy and typical London used car trader seeking bodging ways to "Cock and Block" a tatty old dog and tuck up a mug.
The only way to restore classic cars is properly!
Your Jag is worth serious money: do it properly! _________________ Well, apart from that, did you enjoy the play, Mrs Lincoln? |
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 1745 Location: Nairn, Scotland
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 3:25 pm Post subject: |
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I think that there are good uses if such transfers exist.
My pre-war Austin has a real walnut dash which did restore beautifully by the application of some simple techniques and a lot of patience. But it also has some metal trims on the doors which were originally walnut finished by a photographic process that had a poor longevity.
I painted mine with a deep brown enamel which matched the shade of the walnut but the transfers would be perfect for restoring them
More info please.  |
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Old Wrench

Joined: 23 Dec 2013 Posts: 226 Location: Essex and France
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 826 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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There are people who can do this, and there was an article in one of the Classic Car mags about it a couple of years ago. I will see if I can find it.
I have heard of the people on the link below:
http://www.southeastcustomcoatings.co.uk/index.html
but suspect that its expensive and not sure how good a match you would get. How about chatting up your local antique restorers, they might be able to sort out something for you. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 826 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 6:18 pm Post subject: |
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Article is in Classics Monthly January 2013. I will see if I can scan it in if you are interested. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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Old Wrench

Joined: 23 Dec 2013 Posts: 226 Location: Essex and France
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 1745 Location: Nairn, Scotland
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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| I remember that technique getting a mention in the Austin Ten Drivers' Club , but it takes a fair bit of skill to emulate the detail of the original finish. |
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Ellis
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Posts: 1386 Location: Betws y Coed, North Wales
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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Dear me!
The first admonishment of the year by Old Wrench.
In case some of you are thinking I am a bodger, here are a photo or two of the nearside door cappings which I have restored myself :
[ ]
and a close up of a repair :
[/ ]
The larger pieces are the most straightforward to restore (relatively speaking!) but the small parts are difficult to restore properly.
The walnut transfers I refer to are not "Formica effect" as in 1970's Fords and Rover 2000's or a Fablon sheet but a vinyl gloss transfer which gives you this effect :
[ ]
No, it's not the stick on plastic "fake" wood you can buy as kits either.
I think the above may be the way to do the tricky pieces.
By the way, thank you all for your suggestions.[/img] _________________ Starting Handle Expert
1964 Jaguar Mark 2 3.4 litre
1962 Land Rover Series 2a 88"
2002 BMW M3 E46 Cabriolet |
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Ellis
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Posts: 1386 Location: Betws y Coed, North Wales
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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| colwyn500 wrote: | But it also has some metal trims on the doors which were originally walnut finished by a photographic process that had a poor longevity.
!: |
Yes, that was the 1950's/60's means of replicating a walnut finish.
I've been doing a lot of research today and it appears that even on bespoke new cars the walnut effect is reproduced on SOME smaller parts by using these transfers/ silk screen vinyl directly on to bare metal.
There were hints on one website that some of the walnut effect trim on Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth 11's diamond jubilee Bentley are as above.
But please, don't quote me! _________________ Starting Handle Expert
1964 Jaguar Mark 2 3.4 litre
1962 Land Rover Series 2a 88"
2002 BMW M3 E46 Cabriolet |
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Old Wrench

Joined: 23 Dec 2013 Posts: 226 Location: Essex and France
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Ellis wrote: | Dear me!
The first admonishment of the year by Old Wrench |
Not at all, Ellis: merely a recommendation!
Since I was 13 years of age and fell in love with Jags and the wondrous walnut dash of my late Father's first MK VII, I simply adore Burr Walnut!
And loved it on all my Jag saloons, from a MK I to three MK IIs.
Personally, I believe one of the aspects which much attracts classic car collectors to Jaguar cars is the splendid opulence of the Burr Walnut: such as the fold down trays in the rear seats.
If one thinks about this a bit, it still amazes me that Bill Lyons and his team of utterly brilliant engineers could manufacture such cars, at the selling price with such a superb specification: and make such profits Lyons was able to turn Jaguar from what was really a coachbuilder and marginal modifier of mainstream production manufacturers (In this case, Standard Motor Co), to become a highly sought after marque, globally.
I hate the BL mockup Jag saloons (240,340 and 380 -rare one!) with their plywood dashes etc plastic seats and nasty little Morris 1100 overriders! Yuk!
Your restorations look fine; more difficult parts, then surely, consult a local antique restorer? My chum would do this without blinking: he regularly restores Georgian furniture with lifting and damaged veneer.
Point of fact he did a fantastic job on a veneered Victorian lady's writing box, my wife inherited from her late great aunt.
Which brings me on to my love of wood (as well as metal!). Mrs Wrench and I have been collecting (and Mrs W dealing in) antiques for many years.
Final point: unless you are comfortable with French Polishing, very worthwhile having a craftsman do this for you. _________________ Well, apart from that, did you enjoy the play, Mrs Lincoln? |
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Ellis
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Posts: 1386 Location: Betws y Coed, North Wales
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="norustplease"]Article is in Classics Monthly January 2013. I will see if I can scan it in if you are interested.[/quote
Yes please. _________________ Starting Handle Expert
1964 Jaguar Mark 2 3.4 litre
1962 Land Rover Series 2a 88"
2002 BMW M3 E46 Cabriolet |
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Ellis
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Posts: 1386 Location: Betws y Coed, North Wales
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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Old Wrench wrote: | My chum would do this without blinking: he regularly restores Georgian furniture with lifting and damaged veneer.
Point of fact he did a fantastic job on a veneered Victorian lady's writing box, my wife inherited from her late great aunt.
. |
Thank you very much for your kind offer, I may very well take advantage of this.
I do in fact have two sets of wood trim for a Mark 2, one from a 1963 and another from a 1964 and, of course, both are different in the veneer detailing.
What I may do is "experiment" with the smaller pieces of the 1964 set.
The restored cappings are from the 1963 car.
As for French Polishing it is my understanding that the wood trim was not polished in this way. There is a reference to this in Nigel Thorley's "Original Jaguar Mark 2".
I have examined the clear coating closely and the coating is a lacquer of some sort. It's not polyurethane, nor cellulose and because it appears to be only one coat there cannot have been any cellulose Sanding Sealer on the wood and veneers.
My belief is that the clear coat is a version of Yacht Varnish, spray applied and it ages in a similar way.
For those who may be interested the lacquer coat on my cappings, and everything else is a high quality polyurethane varnish applied unthinned from a quality spray gun at 90psi so that it atomises properly and reforms uniformly on the surface.
That was a tip I was given by the best car spray painter I have known.
It leaves a nice natural gloss without the "plasticky" appearance of a two pack lacquer and more durable than cellulose lacquer on top of a sanding sealer. _________________ Starting Handle Expert
1964 Jaguar Mark 2 3.4 litre
1962 Land Rover Series 2a 88"
2002 BMW M3 E46 Cabriolet
Last edited by Ellis on Fri Jan 02, 2015 8:57 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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52classic
Joined: 02 Oct 2008 Posts: 493 Location: Cardiff.
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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This is similar to the self adhesive wood trim kits that used to turn up on Jap imported 4X4's. They are done with a process known as 'doming' Google it and you'll see that the equipment and the resin is not expensive.
I bought a set years ago (the remains of the stuff have long since dried up!) but it was pretty easy to do after a couple of practice runs.
To do a small piece of trim the first process is to photograph a piece of the existing veneer where it is in good condition. Then from a helpful sign maker, have your photograph output onto a piece of self adhesive vinyl, several times larger than the piece you want but with the veneer bit 100% original size.
Now make a paper template of the piece you want to 'veneer.' transfer that to the vinyl sheet then cut around it with a scalpel so that you can 'weed' out the vinyl you don't want, leaving the carrier paper intact.
This is a bit tricky and if you were doing several it would be easier to scan your template and have the sign people do the cutting.
Now apply the 'doming' resin with the 2 part applicator supplied.
Once dry you can simply lift the 'veneers' off the backing sheet and stick them to the car. The result is pretty durable and convincing as long as you don't look too close. |
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Old Wrench

Joined: 23 Dec 2013 Posts: 226 Location: Essex and France
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="Ellis"] | Old Wrench wrote: |
My belief is that the clear coat is a version of Yacht Varnish, spray applied and it ages in a similar way.
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Rather doubtful, Ellis, IMHO.
Yacht varnish is much more viscous and yellows over time.
Since Alkyds had replaced most paint solids and by the early 1950s, acrylics were becoming common for oven baking etc, the lacquer used by Jag was probably what we used to call burnishing wood lacquer, a nitrocellulose product.
However, I personally would go for French Polish to bring up the superb grain and create a lustre without the dreadful synthetic uber-gloss of modern wood/plastic finishes.
This one is tired however about right (Apart from that bloody awful steering wheel!!):
http://www.victorycars.com/carimages/1952jaguar%20mark%207%20dash.jpg
However, this one is awful, with that synthetic lacquer which is totally non-original.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Jaguar+MK+7+dashboard&biw=1150&bih=731&tbm=isch&imgil=7P8idP7eDYc80M%253A%253BewQ4M52gs4VsEM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.classiccarsforsale.co.uk%25252Fcar-advert%25252Fjaguar%25252Fmark-vii%25252F1952%25252F195817%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=7P8idP7eDYc80M%253A%252CewQ4M52gs4VsEM%252C_&usg=__IDS-QhqN3MUHsAj5IKGt8ScjnUw%3D&ved=0CDEQyjc&ei=dfCmVKmgG8jzUOe9grgL#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=7P8idP7eDYc80M%253A%3BewQ4M52gs4VsEM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmediastorage.classiccarsforsale.co.uk%252Fcf%252Fa3f19%252F31141%252Fe1c76%252F5f4d7%252F9b271%252F81120%252FJagMK7%252520011_880x660.jpg%253F1364353486%2526displayId%253D1002%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.classiccarsforsale.co.uk%252Fcar-advert%252Fjaguar%252Fmark-vii%252F1952%252F195817%252F%3B880%3B660 _________________ Well, apart from that, did you enjoy the play, Mrs Lincoln? |
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