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1926 Rover 9 Roadster
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had to modify the rubber part between the bowl and the body to allow it to mount vertically - remove a small cube of rubber. A smaller carb would have been better, but this one was cheap and available.
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, after a couple of weeks of descaling the rad, its back on the car, and leaks like a sieve - a couple of steady dribbles. Can anybody with a similar size engine (1074cc), and a honeycomb rad (in good condition) advise their experience please? Does it provide reliable cooling, or is it marginal? The car has a water pump, if that means much. The options are a new core in same type of tubes (looks the same) (GBP590 + shipping to OZ + fitting here) or local work to fit a modern core behind a facade of honeycomb - cost unknown so far? Would rather not do the latter.
thanks
jp
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roverdriver



Joined: 18 Oct 2008
Posts: 1142
Location: 100 miles from Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I came across a Youtube film about an Australian maker of honeycomb radiators. I will have a hunt and see if i can find him. It could be a better bet than importing one.

Quick hunt, and I found it-
http://www.ftrs.com.au/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cxt6EN-39Ck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUhZClSWHu8
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have seen that one also. He makes a hexagonal version made of strips, not from tubes, and it looks quite different. Look at 'round flared tube ' types here
http://www.vintagecarradiatorcompany.co.uk/cores/tube-cartridge/
which is what mine is.
The FTRS guy makes stuff more like the 'hexagon film' type here http://www.vintagecarradiatorcompany.co.uk/cores/film-ribbon/
It is a good video to watch though.
thanks
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 4:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test done. I had an old MX5 radiator lying around, and it actually fitted between the mudguards. Since the MX5 rad inlet/outlets were 32mm (vs 25-27) on the Rover), and they werent very convenient to connect,I had to do a bit of plumbing. A length of 32mm vynil tube, 2 x 32mm elbows, and a 32->25 reducer elbow, and its all connected. Had to raise the base of the rad above the crossmember so the filler neck was above the engine outlet pipe - couple of lumps of wood, cable tied to the corssmember.
Got my thermocouple stuck in the filler neck (no cap needed), fired it up. Being fairly cool here today (<25C) , it took ~15 mins to get up to temp, and slowly made it to 75C (book says 65C at 25mph), but the last 5-8C was slow going. I fired up a 9" electric fan in the front, and it pulled the temp down below 70C fairly quickly. I think that means that the engine and water pump are basically OK - the fresh water I filled it with went slightly murky pretty quickly, and the vynil tube allowed me to see the water moving.
So now the question for the radiator man - what are the cost differences between a new core (probably A$2k by the time its all fitted etc), and removing all but the front of the current tube core,and hiding a modern radiator in the back, with an electric fan?
jp
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Kenham



Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 174
Location: Kent

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I suppose that's good news in a way as you don't have mechanical issues but you have financial issues instead .
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are a couple of pics of the radiator test set up.
https://imgur.com/NnqdiSL
Front view - wood blocks needed to lift filler neck above top engine outlet.
https://imgur.com/kBL72km

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taillights - Got a pair of lights from well known Brit outfit, stop/tail and number plate lighting. The copper bits for contacting the bulbs (BAY15D) come with bullet connectors in them. As I pulled out one bullet to solder the wire to it, the whole socket and blade fell off its rivet. Bugger. With a bit of manipulation and 3 hands I managed to improve the rivets clamping, hope it will stay together. Emailed the supplier about this, no response at all. Not very complete service IMHO. Another oddity - if you push the bullet fully into its socket, the end can contact the grounded bulb socket and give you a short - cost me 2 fuses so far. A bit more faffing about with the switch for brake lights, and all is now working - the switch required more stroke than I had thought to make contact.
Brakes next - one front adjusted up fine, but the other needed some work. Had the local brake shop check the drum and give it the lightest possible skim, and radius the shoes to match. Hope the rears are OK, as each side has 4 shoes - 2 foot brake, 2 hand brake.
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front brake shoes and drum refitted, adjusted up well, nice short pedal. Effectiveness yet to be assessed!
Radiator - first people I spoke to did not inspire confidence, and very reticent to give me hard numbers for either a new core, fitting a core, or fitting a modern core. Recently found a place with a recommendation, so paid them a visit. Long and short is there are no short cuts that save money in the long run, so I have had to bite the bullet. Hard quote provided (Painful!) and the process is underway - 5 -6 weeks , core coming from NZ. The $ are only a little more than getting a core from UK and having it installed here. Single source for the whole job gives me a lot more peace of mind.
Seeing as I am a bit paranoid about temperature control in all my cars, I raised the fitting of an electric fan, and they will fit suitable mounts, and a position for a temp sensor. As soon as all this is done I will be able to get an inspection by the Vintage club for Club plates, and get it down to the local trimmer.
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2018 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got my radiator back. Lovely job, core all black, shell nice and shiny (600 wet'n'dry), fitting on the back to mount an electric fan, temp sensor for fan fitted in top tank. Only one problem - hex tubes instead of round. Wound the guy that did it UP well and truly, until he offered to redo it for free, if I spent GBP800 on a round tube core from UK.....not going to happen. I'll get over it...eventually.
Fitted it back in the car, connected hoses. Fitted the drain plug, added some water...drain plug leaks. Tighten it a touch - stripped. Now out looking for a 1/8 BSP plug, hoping the female thread will hold. The male plug is short and sad, and its not really clear whether its a Paralell or a taper.....the saga continues.
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhhh! Got new drain plug for radiator. Fitted it with some teflon tape, let it sit for a while, seems to hold OK when filled. Fired her up to check if temp now stabilizes with only the original 3 blade fan. Got to mid 50sC, then slower to 60, seemed to slowly climb a bit, just idling , just made it 65C (recomended crusing temp), so it will hopefully hold in that area.
Then - water leak low on the left (car's right)...slow drip, out the front and back of the same tube. Many expletives. Let it cool back down to a level I can work on it, drained, removed. Called the read man, and took it over (20 mins away). He couldnt believe it - they all say that dont they! Cold test - holds pressure fine - hot it leaked I assure them. Bit difficult to test it hot apparently, but I left them to find a way and fix it. If it happens again I will video it with my phone and send it to them, and they can come here and pick it up and deliver it. This is a BRAND NEW core out of NZ.
Some progress - battery hold down - running board mounted. Bought one of these https://www.autoelec.com.au/projecta-bhd18m-universal-battery-hold-down-tray-c~20093
as I dont have a lot of space laterally on the running board. The gap between the parts that sit over the edges was ~6mm too great, as I want to have tight fitting box. With 3 cell caps I cant put the bar in the middle, but I bent to rod in the middle into a V to go around a cell cap a bit, then bent outer ends back parallel and managed to get an exact fit over the width. The supplied rods were too short (with the ends bent over) to go through the running board (solid timber, ~30mm), so I bent the hooks back straight, then cut M8 threads on them, and now it reaches. Couple of holes drilled, Voila - its stable and wont fall off! Next job is to build a box, but there is no hurry on that - 15-16mm ply - and find some sort on metal/plastic tray for underneath it.
jp


Last edited by jp928 on Wed Jun 06, 2018 1:25 am; edited 1 time in total
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20825
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing's ever simple eh jp?!?!

RJ
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Radiator is back, assured that its been tested hot as well as cold. I told the radiator man that if it leaks again I will send him a video, and he can come over and pick it up - he is 20 mins drive away. Installed, run up to hot once, no leaks so far. Now that I have screwed down the crap seats , its almost time to put it on its wheels, and see if its moves OK! I am in a dead end street, so I can safely go 50 yds to the end and turn around and come back - as long as it can get up the slope again, and the brakes are effective.
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost time to move it, but have a query on the heavy steering - stationary on concrete its VERY difficult to move the wheel much at all. Link below is to a scan of a page from the 20s about this model, and has a note about the steering box (page 2, middle column). Does anybody know anything, or have any info on this type of box please? The note says the round cover can be used to adjust gear mesh, and I suspect the tightness is due the cover being adjusted too tightly, in an attempt to remove slack. There is maybe 1" of slop at the wheel rim. Box is well oiled.
I know its a terrible image, imgur doesnt seem to handle pdf files well. I might try to scan just the box part as a jpg and try for a better result.
thanks
john
https://imgur.com/FZw00l1
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6134
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi John,

If the steering operates easily with one finger when the front wheels are jacked off the ground then I suspect the stiffness you experience is simply due to the efficiency (or inefficiency) of the steering box design.

Over the years many significant design improvements took place with ball bearings replacing plain bearings and the difference is astounding. Basically you really need the car to be moving when changing the angle of the front wheels.

It will be much better out on the open road.

Peter
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