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ford 7w ten running problems
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22446
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe try running it in the dark, and see if you've any arcing anywhere.

I once had major backfires and all sorts with an old car, in the end it was the small lead beneath the base plate in the dizzy that was shorting out against the side of the dizzy's body.

RJ
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Kenham



Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 209
Location: Kent

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good idea, reminds me of a V4 transit I had years ago, look like a firework display under the bonnet at night from the carbon plug leads. That vehicle was without doubt the worst vehicle I have ever owned.
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spitfirebob



Joined: 08 Oct 2012
Posts: 51

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kenham wrote:
Just thought of a couple of things, have you got proper wire plug leads and are you running six or twelve volts ?
Where are you located ? Ken


Was thinking about bad fuel aswell so will try that route also!
Head not painted so distributor should be earthed OK
Plug leads are the correct ones and running 6v
Did notice that coil was very hot too
Will more than likely contact distributor doctor in the morning and order required parts
Gradually replacing parts is fun!!!
I'm located in Leicestershire


Last edited by spitfirebob on Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:18 am; edited 1 time in total
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spitfirebob



Joined: 08 Oct 2012
Posts: 51

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick wrote:
Maybe try running it in the dark, and see if you've any arcing anywhere.

I once had major backfires and all sorts with an old car, in the end it was the small lead beneath the base plate in the dizzy that was shorting out against the side of the dizzy's body.

RJ


OK Rick, something else for me to try Smile
Taking a much needed break from it until Friday so can approach it with fresh attitude!!
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spitfirebob



Joined: 08 Oct 2012
Posts: 51

PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right!
Replaced coil,leads points, cap,rotor and plugs and........ Still the same!!!!! Sad
Did a compression test and all 4 about 10 bar so got good compression
Plugs 1 and 4 are getting wet/black and checked tail pipe and found it oily
Is it a question of rings bedding in (newly refurbished engine) or something still not right?
Am losing the will to live now as it feels like another day done with no change
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Kenham



Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 209
Location: Kent

PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi sorry its not right yet. Seems a bit strange it is 1 and 4 again. What exactly have you done to the engine in the rebuild , rebore or just new rings? If you have a spark at the right time in the right place then it seems to me it must be a compression issue. I know you say the compression test shows good but sometimes oil in the bores can disguise a reading. If you have oil in the exhaust pipe it can only be coming from one place, up the cylinder and past the rings. If it is not firing on 1 and 4 because of spark issues then it wont be burning fuel and making plugs wet etc. I think if you are 100% sure of plug leads on right then I think you must be looking at rings/ compression .
I wish I was a bit nearer to have a look.
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spitfirebob



Joined: 08 Oct 2012
Posts: 51

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ken
The engine was fully stripped and more or less everything is new
(Work done by local engine firm)
Plug leads are definitely on right with very strong spark at plug
With plugs removed I can see chambers on 1&4 are blackened compared to 2&3 which are nice and clean
Rings may need bedding in but as its not running well I can't take it far enough to enable this
I think it's a trip back to engineers to see what they have to say
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just reminded me of a workmate who had his 105E engine rebuilt. Started OK and ran, but something wasn't quite right.

Oh Oh.... Piston rings were safe and secure in their original packing.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7118
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the bores were not sufficiently honed when the new rings were installed then they will take a very long time to bed in. I made this mistake once (in my youth) and it took 10k miles before I got good compressions.

Peter Embarassed
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spitfirebob



Joined: 08 Oct 2012
Posts: 51

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wondering if I tried a thicker oil such as sae50
The rings need bedding in but as oil is contaminating the plugs I can't really run engine enough to bed them in!!
Thought thicker oil may not get to plugs as much thus enabling engine to run better??
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

spitfirebob wrote:
Hi Ken
The engine was fully stripped and more or less everything is new
(Work done by local engine firm)
Plug leads are definitely on right with very strong spark at plug
With plugs removed I can see chambers on 1&4 are blackened compared to 2&3 which are nice and clean
Rings may need bedding in but as its not running well I can't take it far enough to enable this
I think it's a trip back to engineers to see what they have to say


Could be the best suggestion yet...
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22446
Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the carb known to be good? ie did the engine run ok with it previously, or has it been stripped since the engine last ran well? No obstructions where the emulsion block fits to the side of the float chamber?

The plug leads are ok, which way does the rotor spin?

No play in the distributor shaft? I had a problem once whereby there was sideways play in the shaft, and some play in the rivet on the (new) rotor arm, which combined was enough to close up the gap between the rotor arm tip and two of the four contacts in the cap. I note you've tried new rotor arms, but play in the shaft might be enough to cause the same problem.

Presumably the ignition timing is correct, was the valve timing set correctly when the engine was put back together?

RJ
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spitfirebob



Joined: 08 Oct 2012
Posts: 51

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rick
Card was stripped and ultta-sonic cleaned so will recheck for any debris
Rotor(new red one from distributor doctor) spins anti clockwise with new leads
Just checked now and there is very slight play with distributor shaft,could it need rebushing?
Timing has been set and hopefully valve timing was set correctly!!
I spoke to engine builder today and he has said rings need time to bed in,I can, if I want take engine back to him but he was confident that there would be nothing wrong with it
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petelang



Joined: 21 May 2009
Posts: 444
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did your engine builder not run test the engine?
I just wonder if they taped over the manifold holes and forgot to remove it when fitted?
Peter
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it improve as it warms up?

RJ
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