Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

Keith D · Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2023 2:16 am Post subject:

A very nice straight looking and tidy car, Gary. Be very good to see a picture with the bonnet on though!

Keith
_________________
1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution

Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22453 Location: UK

Looks great, thanks for the update and photos Smile

RJ
_________________
Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop

garyjpaterson · Joined: 05 Jul 2016 Posts: 30 Location: Aberdeenshire

Bonnet back on again Smile

[/img]

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6329 Location: Derby

Makes you want to go for a drive!

(Maybe clean the glass first Very Happy

)

garyjpaterson · Joined: 05 Jul 2016 Posts: 30 Location: Aberdeenshire

Sadly I think it'll have to wait for spring before I insure it and take it for proper drives. Don't fancy taking it out with all the salt and rubbish on the roads now.
I am fortunate to have some private roads to use in the meantime though, so I'm sure it'll get some winter exercise.

I have a question regarding gear oil, it has plenty but its clearly very old and needs replacing. I'm not very clued up on the various types, and what is backwards compatible etc.
The book says Extreme Pressure SAE 90, anything else I need to be aware of, things to avoid? Something more modern that is better? I'll be changing the oil in the diff too of course.

Any suggestions welcome

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6329 Location: Derby

Any EP90 gear oil will do for the gearbox and diff - if that is what is specified. I bought some for my MG TC diff. ...only to discover that it should have EP140.!

I would not worry about taking the car out in the winter. If you have a heater, so much the better. What I would do is thoroughly jet wash the underside then when dry give it a good dose of wax oil. The car is then protected from whatever the roads can chuck at it.

One thing not to be overlooked is lubricating the springs. Your car has transverse leaf springs; front and rear. You could check for wear present in the shackles.

Note: probably not a good idea to attempt removal without assistance.

bjacko · Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2023 6:10 am Post subject: Gear Oils

Take a look at Penrite's website where they list the oils and where they should be used on older cars.
_________________
1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

Miken · Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544

garyjpaterson · Joined: 05 Jul 2016 Posts: 30 Location: Aberdeenshire

After getting it nice and hot after a wee run today, I did a compression test. Unfortunately, cylinder 3 is down by a lot, at around 30psi. The rest are strong at 90-95psi. A little oil didn't do much, one or two psi increase, so I'll have to get the valve cover off to investigate further.

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6329 Location: Derby

Could be a sticking valve?

Penman · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4765 Location: Swindon, Wilts.

garyjpaterson · Joined: 05 Jul 2016 Posts: 30 Location: Aberdeenshire

The valves don't seem to be sticking, so must not be seating properly.

Forgive me for asking, but am I likely to cause damage by driving with a valve not seating? Could it improve over time?
Or will I have to get the head off and lap the valves?

I don't mind the idea of that, but I do fear it snowballing into much more!

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6329 Location: Derby

I can tell you that you are placing incredible strain on the engine running on three cylinders. If it were me I would have to investigate. You could have a burnt exhaust valve; often caused by retarded ignition, lean running, or too tight tappet adjustment.

You could probably benefit from getting the correct side valve spring compressor and possibly a dentists mirror... it's not an easy job with the engine in situ...unless you are experienced like Alastair!

Be prepared to need a new valve or spring and maybe have to cut a new seat.

garyjpaterson · Joined: 05 Jul 2016 Posts: 30 Location: Aberdeenshire

Righto, better to know now than after I've gone galivanting around in it!

You are right, better to investigate fully now, and decide where to go after. Appreciate the advice

Penman · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4765 Location: Swindon, Wilts.

I don't know the exact layout and type of valve security, BUT I would say block all oil ways back down to the sump and watch out that you don't lose any collets. Keep a nice clean sheet of something softish under the engine so that if you do drop anything it is easy to find and won't bounce too far.

Presumably if you have the head off and also the side panel to access the valve springs, you will re-lap and reset all the valves not just those for the dodgy cylinder.
_________________
Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10