Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[alastairq]

Are you a member of the FSOC?

If not, I suggest the spending of the membership fee, and the consequent access to a huge stores, to be the first action.

The valves are in split valve guides.

The cam followers [tappets, if you like] are non adjustable.
Valve gaps achieved by grinding of the mushroom valve stems.

If a stuck valve is suspected, then it's worth pulling the valve and checking the stem isn't slightly bent.
A bent valve stem may be free enough when in frequent use, but will jam itself if the engine is left for a while unused.

8 & 10HP sidevalve Ford valves also came in different lengths....so the valve stems should be measured before finding replacement valves [The Club stores will help there].
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[garyjpaterson]

So I took the head off this evening - very much seems like a burnt exhaust valve. The valve definitely doesn't look round anymore!
Seems to have a fair amount of play, when lifted. Some others do too, though not as much.

Also i noticed a marking (EX) on a few of them, though I don't think all (I'll have to double check). Including on an intake valve - I guess all the valves are the same?





Bores seem reasonably ok, to my extremely untrained eye. One score on cylinder 2 that I can feel with my finger, all the rest I can't.



I suppose my next move is figuring out how feasible it is to replace a valve, spring, guides etc at home. Valve guide removal tool is available from the FSOC which is handy. Anyone know of a spring compressor that'll fit this application?

On another note, anyone have thoughts on adjustable tappets? Spotted them here - https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/products/ye-6500-aj-adjustable-tappet
FSOC don't seem to sell them, which is a shame as their prices seem to generally be a lot better.
Just thinking, if going to the effort of getting all the valves out, would it be better to have the ability to regularly adjust them to potentially avoid burning another? Just a thought

[Penman]

There is all sorts of things going on there, 2 cylinders' valves are black and 2 cylinders have lighter coloured valves. The cylinder with the very light valve looks to have a vertical score line.
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Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

[Ray White]

The inside of that engine is fairly typical; I have seen worse. It is tempting to go further but I would hold off an engine rebuild depending on how much use the car is likely to get.

Regarding the valve job, I think it depends on how good you are at grinding valve stems. There is a fair bit of trial and error - hopefully not too much error because if you go too far you can ruin a new valve.

I think if you intend to keep the car for a long time then go for the adjustable tappets... but they seem like a luxury item which most Ford side valve owners could only dream of.

It's been 60 years since I did a valve job on my 100E and have studiously avoided this type of engine ever since.

I wish you the best of luck. To make a proper job of it You will need a new set of exhaust valves and springs, probably new split guides, a valve seat cutter and grinding paste for final lapping. The inlets will usually only need lapping.

You ought to get hold of a side valve spring compressor (try ebay etc). Although it is possible to do the job without one, I wouldn't recommend it .

As has been stated you must be careful not to drop collets (or anything else) into the engine; it is easily done...don't ask me how I know!

[alastairq]

For a valve lifter, Sykes Pickavant JWP 289 Valve Lifter off ebay is good. Around 20 pounds or thereabouts.

Very simple method of securing valve, namely a dished washer with a slot in it.

I suggest not bothering with adjustable followers...I have an early set [from SFS] and found the threads to be a tad coarse for fine adjustment. Also, access for adjustment requires taking a grinder to a spanner as the slots in the engine block are not very wide.

Once the valve gaps are set on these 8 & 10HP Ford engines, that should really be about it for its lifetime.

Buying a cheapoh dial test indicator [magnetic] is useful, [maybe ?20 ?] as the valves can be set for optimum lift rather than pedantic valve stem gaps.

In other words doing some sums to allow for the minimum valve stem gap, when measuring full lift, will mean, if required lift is achieved with a slightly greater gap, that'll do nicely.

Getting the right lift rather than being pedantic over equal gaps will be worth an HP or two, as well.

See if the valve guides pop out before spending on a valve guide removal tool....Not absolutely essential, just nice to have.

I also got hold of a ''dummy'' valve guide [off the club!] {CE-13061} to make life easier if lapping valves or grinding valve seats. Cost me around ?18.50, post free as usual from the club stores.

On these engines, valve guide halves were supposed to be ''matched'' at the factory.

Most of my 'spare' guide halves had their valve stem channels worn wider at either end...So it may be a case of trying a few to get the least amount of slop?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[alastairq]

For a valve lifter, Sykes Pickavant JWP 289 Valve Lifter off ebay is good. Around 20 pounds or thereabouts.

Very simple method of securing valve, namely a dished washer with a slot in it.

I suggest not bothering with adjustable followers...I have an early set [from SFS] and found the threads to be a tad coarse for fine adjustment. Also, access for adjustment requires taking a grinder to a spanner as the slots in the engine block are not very wide.

Once the valve gaps are set on these 8 & 10HP Ford engines, that should really be about it for its lifetime.

Buying a cheapoh dial test indicator [magnetic] is useful, [maybe ?20 ?] as the valves can be set for optimum lift rather than pedantic valve stem gaps.

In other words doing some sums to allow for the minimum valve stem gap, when measuring full lift, will mean, if required lift is achieved with a slightly greater gap, that'll do nicely.

Getting the right lift rather than being pedantic over equal gaps will be worth an HP or two, as well.

See if the valve guides pop out before spending on a valve guide removal tool....Not absolutely essential, just nice to have.

I also got hold of a ''dummy'' valve guide [off the club!] {CE-13061} to make life easier if lapping valves or grinding valve seats. Cost me around ?18.50, post free as usual from the club stores.

On these engines, valve guide halves were supposed to be ''matched'' at the factory.

Most of my 'spare' guide halves had their valve stem channels worn wider at either end...So it may be a case of trying a few to get the least amount of slop?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

Alastair. Measuring valve lift is a brilliant idea.

[garyjpaterson]

Brilliant advice, thank you all!

[alastairq]

[Ray White]

[alastairq]

I think a lot of good ideas only become really practical propositions due to today's easy & cheap access to more 'specialized' tools [such as the magnetic dial test indicator?] via the likes of ebay, etc.
Tools, for example, that might not really stand up to the rigours of a trade establishment, but for the less frequent use by the enthusiastic amateur, can be ideal?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

[Rick]

Years ago I did a similar job on my old green E83W pickup, one or two valves on that were burnt. It was tight to do the job with the engine in-situ (the engine is offset in the 10cwt vans and pickups) but do-able, fortunately I had a small box of used but good valves to hand and simply used the one that was closest to what I needed without having to grind it down to suit.

RJ
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[ukdave2002]

[Ray White]

Some old habits die hard. My Dad had an old fashioned hand operated chain block and tackle in the garage with a gantry and beam trolly to move an engine and gearbox to the bench. He would use chains, ropes or straps to lift an engine. He had done it that way for many years and it didn't occur to him to change.

When I started at D.C. Cobb's garage I was introduced to a hydraulic crane type engine hoist which could be easily wheeled into position. Instead of old ropes or straps to remove the engines he had a load leveller. This I consider to be a game changer. No more struggling to tilt the engine; simply wind the handle. I have one and found it invaluable. It amazes me to see car programmes on the TV where - all these years later - they are still struggling the old way.