Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22468 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:59 pm Post subject: MGB Roadster BL/MG development car |
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Hi all,
I've added a page to the main site today about this car. I bought it some time ago now, and have been fettling it on and off ever since. The story so far is now on this page http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/mgb-roadster.htm, the gist is that it was built late 1977 and used until December 1980 by test and development engineers. A journal that survives with it, documents many of the tests it was used for, I plan to type it all up and add it in shortly.
If anyone has links to the MGB world, in particular on the production side in the late 1970s, please point them to the above page as I've a lot of gaps in the known information to plug, thanks.
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1956 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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Just had a read, excellent stuff indeed.
You mention, the raised ride height [to meet US lighting regs, perhaps?]
IIRC, the raising of the ride height was achieved with chassis alterations, rather than adjustment to suspension ride heights? {Am I right there?}
Perhaps this will be seen as a detrimental move [at east until better anti-roll bars were fitted?}....a 'negative?'
I'd like to offer a 'positive' note in that regard.
Having a designed-in ride height increase has proved incredibly useful for those who use MGB's to compete in Classic Reliability Trials.
One of the characteristics of proper sports cars of old..[rather than pure tarmac queens?]....was the ability to cope with whatever surfaces were deigned to be driven on. Hence, with the popularity of trials in the past, 'proper' sports cars [able to compete in a wide variety of [clubman?] events with little or no modification]....were equally capable off-road, as well as on-road.
In standard UK form, the MGB tended to be a little too low for a quick excursion into a filed, or rural grass verge.....without risk of snagging important bits underneath.
The Spridget range also could benefit as above....with the driver of a standard height Midget definitely having to look up to the driver of a trials-prepared Spridget.
I'm sure the US-spec MGB's could be hustled along quite nicely, with the addition of a bit of good driver skills?
And its the using of those driver skills that surely makes the making of decent progress a thrill of driving?
More fun having to use technique, rather than having the car do everything for you? |
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Penman
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4765 Location: Swindon, Wilts.
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Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
Re the masking tape covering something else on the logbook cover, I believe that art historian/researchers use xray tech to find earlier paintings on canvases.
If any of it is on the thinner pages then a bright light beneath the page might be enough for you to read earlier entries. _________________ Bristols should always come in pairs.
Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10 |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22468 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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I'll definitely look into that Penman.
The carbs were recently removed, and inspection of the float chambers (underneath on the HIF 4 carbs) showed everything to be gummed up, and generally pretty bad. The needle valves were both jammed closed, and everything was coated in ancient fuel.
The carbs were re-fitted to the car yesterday, after cleaning the carbs internally, and fitting new needle valves and main rubber seals. The fuel hoses were also replaced.
Today I had the B running from its fuel tank, for the first time in many a year. I only ran it briefly as new hoses are on order, but once it has fresh coolant I'll run it up to temperature and see what gives. The early signs are positive, oil pressure comes up quickly, no excess smoke, or ominous noises so far.
Annoyingly the clutch appears to be stuck off, I knew this before buying it, so there'll be some investigating to do there, beginning with the linkages and, if necessary, within. Maybe a little heat through things will help ... but first will be to have a look underneath in case there's something obvious that's amiss/disconnected etc.
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22468 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2022 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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I've been having a tinker with the MGB over the last few days. This evening I decided to remind myself of what was going on with the gearbox/clutch.
As I reported previously, when I last had it running a few years ago, you could put it through the gears without using the clutch, and it'd make no difference, the car wouldn't lurch forwards etc etc as if the clutch was stuck off (as opposed to the usual stuck on), ie it refused to take up drive. Equally, rocking the car backwards and forwards by hand was the same irrespective of whether a gear or neutral was selected, it just rolled freely.
I tried it again this evening, without the engine running. The pedal felt normal (ie not disconnected) and the gearlever felt like it was doing its job. I gave the pedal a series of energetic jabs, and put it through all the gears repeatedly, not really expecting it to improve anything but happily it appears to have cured it. In neutral it rolls back and forth as usual, in gear it's now connected and trying to turn the engine over, as you'd expect.
I had visions of the clutch being stuck off (somehow), or perhaps there being a problem with the gear selector and/or input shaft, but now it appears to be engaging and disengaging gear correctly.
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6349 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2022 10:00 pm Post subject: |
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Rick. I wish I had luck like that! |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22468 Location: UK
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22468 Location: UK
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Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2022 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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Had quite the battle getting the water pump off (it was noisy). All but one of the securing bolts undid without a battle. The longest bolt looked a bit "secondhand" before I even pushed on the socket, and it bit momentarily then just rounded off yet further.
I tried all manner of different spanners of the correct size, sockets that rely on the flats rather than the corners etc etc but to no avail. Heat was also tried. It was getting to the point that I'd have to chop off the top of the bolt, slide the pump over the remaining section of bolt, then attempt to remove the bolt's remains, perhaps using a stud extractor, with the very likely outcome that I'd end up snapping it off and having to drill out the remains.
In a fit of master bodgery I decided to sacrifice a just-too-small socket (12mm I think) by tapping it over the well-rounded bolt head. Amazingly it bit just long enough to free off the bolt - perhaps the earlier heat had helped a little, I'm not sure. This terrible approach to freeing a seized bolt rarely works but it was my last option before chopping the bolt head off, so while not proud of my actions, I was at least satisfied that I got the bolt out without breaking anything. Even the socket survived
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
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Keith D
Joined: 16 Oct 2008 Posts: 1131 Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia
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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2022 4:44 am Post subject: |
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Rick,
If we are honest, I reckon all of us have used the undersized socket trick before. Nasty it may be, but this feeling is overcome by the wonderful feeling of relief as the bolt (or nut) loosens without the need for further surgery!
Keith _________________ 1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1956 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2022 8:38 am Post subject: |
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Needs must when the devil flies, Rick...
A bolt is a bolt, so to speak. Bolts can be replaced.
Better to replace a bolt than have the whole block taken out and maybe even damaged?
An old socket is replaceable as well. I suspect we all have a box full of random sockets kicking about?
Heck, they even sell them these days, deliberately undersized, to remove stubborn bolts or nuts... _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4122 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2022 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Rick, its a perfectly acceptable way of removing a rounded bolt or stud, go into any garage and you will find a set of impact sockets that have a tapered" spire", rather than the tradition, points or flats. The spire digs into the offending nut or bold, gripping it helping removal.
As Alistair points out, the nut or bolt will have to be replaced whatever the removal method.
https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/stud-extractors-3-8inch-sd/10504634-5-piece-bolt-grip-base-set-394001/p/ZT1006243X
Another (frowned on by my Dad) method I use when removing things like exhaust clamp bolts, is not to spend ages working the nut off the always corroded thread, but tighten them up until the bolt snaps, if you have ever had to disconnect the exhaust from manifold on a Mini or 1100/1300 this save much knuckle skin!
Dave |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6349 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2022 9:50 am Post subject: |
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If you can get good enough access, weld on a nut and use it to remove the bolt. |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22468 Location: UK
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22468 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Dad spent a lot of time fiddling with the B, it's now back home here (he has a new resident in his own garage now), and appears to run well with its re-con set of (earlier type) SU carbs. Originally, being a US-spec car, it would have had a single Stromberg, which survives but in a box rather than on the car.
I dug out the original numberplates for it the other day. Someone had fitted awful plastic plates to it but fortunately hadn't thrown out the originals, so with a bit of fettling (and replacement of a letter 'T' with one sourced from a friend) it now has the proper, slightly tatty, metal plates back on it.
The electric fans need a looking at (two on a Federal-spec car) but otherwise it shouldn't need much more in order to put it back on the road, I'll leave it 'til next year now though as the roads are getting quite mucky and salt isn't far away. I will get a few areas of paintwork sorted though, most of the original paint is good enough to leave in place.
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
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