Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[ukdave2002]

I’d agree that zinc rich primer over epoxy is a bad idea, firstly as previously indicated it’s not adding any benefit applied over epoxy primer, secondly zinc rich primers are notorious for moisture absorption, if a top coat is not applied very quickly, there will be a risk of micro blistering months later.

Dave

[Ray White]

Used this for years and years. It's not porous.



The panels are so uneven there is a risk of going through the epoxy layer when sanding. I should have invested in an English Wheel but it's easy to be wise after the event.

[ukdave2002]

My preference is to only start painting what I can complete in a couple of days; so from bare metal any visible rust is mechanically removed, then a wipe of phosphoric acid, panel wipe, tac rag, etch primer, high build primer. when dry a black powder guide dusting followed by stopper or thin skims of filler as appropriate.

Rub down with 180 through to 400, some times you will go through the primer to steel, which I touch up with a rattle can of etch. Repeat the guide dusting, stopper etc and finish with a 600 wet paper.

Top coat , it’s a long time; 25+ years since I have used celly, 50/50 with thinners was always the starting point, but have used up to 90% thinners on the final coat.

Painting is one of those tasks where there is not an entirely right or wrong way to do it, I think it’s best to stick with what has worked for you in the past, most painting defects can be resolved with some Farecla G3 & G10, biggest problem I have is dirt and bugs, they can be plucked out when the paint is still tacky, a blob of paint dropped into the resulting crater, when the paint is cured it’s no worse than a small run to cut down.

Dave

[Ray White]

My plan is to do the best I can and see how good or bad that is. If I am unhappy with the results then I will admit defeat and hand it over to a traditional body shop that I know will do a good job.

Wilkinsons of Derby are one of the best places and they did a superb job of my Dodge Brothers tourer when I needed it... but they are expensive. (Anyone who specialises in Aston Martin would be!!). I know the owner but that doesn't mean I can get a discount.

[ukdave2002]

[Ray White]

Dave. I couldn't hope to have repaired my Dodge to the standard that Wilkinsons did. A skilled panel beater made a beautiful job of it; working on and off the dolly until the wing was as good as new. They also discovered when removing the edging wire (essential when repairing an old wing) it was incomplete. They rolled a new one into place. Not only had I bent the rear wing out of shape but the rear light had pushed into the back panel and that also needed careful treatment.

There is a huge difference between the "old school" methods and what they do in most body shops these days. There is also a big difference in cost.

I doubt there are many places that still use cellulose; I haven't enquired... but if it's like anything else they probably don't want to know.

[peter scott]

I backed into a skip and few months ago and put a nasty gouge in a rear wing. After filling I was absolutely delighted how the cellulose merged in without me needing to spray the whole wing.

Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Ray White]

[peter scott]

I did see your cracked paint. If it was just down to the differential expansion of aluminium and paint I would have thought it should be a more common sight on coachbuilt cars but I'm not aware of it. Perhaps you've just been unlucky and taking it back to secure paint and filling it might be OK.

Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Ray White]

I have been making the most of the fine weather to make progress with the TC paint. The doors have some serious "high" points; not something I would expect with a new body.



I am also having an issue with the gloss reacting. It was O.K. with Tetrosyl Standard Cellulose thinners...... but I bought some "top gloss" thinners which was unbranded....serves me right!

[Ray White]

Spent more time chasing my tail with the paint job. Trouble is I am never satisfied with it and don't know when to leave well alone.

I have been told enough times that you can't make a silk purse out of a pigs ear; it seems I just won't learn.

I have to keep reminding myself of how far I have come. The rear wings are nearly there although I have noticed a small depression on one of them that hadn't caught my eye before... and the rear corners of the body tub are actually looking quite good.!

The scuttle top which was worst of all (being the only original body panel) is now quite presentable although I will need to re assemble the windscreen before long to ensure the new holes are put in exactly the right place.!

The one niggle that is continuing to give problems is the uneven top edges to both the body and the doors as a result of metal being let in and welded rather than formed. I am having to "best guess" the profile and form the double curvature in body filler before I can even think about paint. The other issue is careless little dents in the new panels which all need filing and sanding down. I wouldn't mind but I paid £6K for this body and although the Ash frame is of a high quality, the panelling (which was outsourced) is rather substandard in my opinion.

[Ray White]

Anyone with an ounce of respect would remove the corrosion from BOTH sides of the petrol tank straps and add some protective paint (unless your aim was to fool some unsuspecting dip stick out of their hard earned... ) but as can be seen I have been preparing them myself.

These straps sit on rubber strips and should be painted body colour; although chrome plated versions are sometimes seen on American restorations.

.

[Ray White]

There seems to be no end to the problems with this bodywork.

I tried offering up a nearside rear wing to the body tub to ensure correct fitting before final paint. Unfortunately, the captive nut in the bracket (one on each end of the new petrol tank) is out of alignment with the hole in the wing where a bolt should go.

The tank feet should sit on 1/4" rubber pads that are in turn revetted to the chassis. If I remove the rubber pads I can get closer... but I will still need to elongate the hole in the wing to get alignment.

The problem with elongating the holes is they are close to a corner. I can't move the wing further back because that would disturb the fitment in the wheel arch..which would in turn spoil the alignment with the running board.

Essentially, everything revolves around the petrol tank. There is no way I can move the end brackets or the captive nuts as that would involve heavy duty stainless steel welding.

There is no redress with the makers of the tank.
...besides, I waited long enough for it to not want to go through all that again.

Perhaps I could drill and tap a thread into the bracket (next to the captive nut) sufficient to accept the bolt??

If there is enough room for a second nut (next to the captive nut) I could use the fixed nut to stop the loose one from turning. If there is not enough space to do that, I may need to cut off the captive nut. There is not much room to get a spanner in... but I don't think it is impossible.

[alastairq]

Much sympathy for your efforts, especially having coffed-up so much moolah !

I get the distinct impression of most of the old car [classic, if you really must?] industry is the presumption that all folk want to do is make the old cars look pretty?
No consideration seems to be given to those who might actually want to use their old cars?
There is the old adage of, if one wants a proper job doing, do it oneself?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

Thank you for your support Alastair. I think most folk who either contribute - or just follow - this forum share a similar view. If I want a car for aesthetic enjoyment and a little local use, I have my beloved Swallow. Even after all these years I still enjoy the sheer joy of it's design and gentle patina from over 90 years of existence.

You are right about the eye watering costs involved in rebuilding the MG. It is, of course, all my own fault. I should probably have sold it on when I realised I had bought a lemon; I would not have taken anything like the financial hit... but it is what it is.

I chose to rebuild the car and I should have kept it simple. Even if I had aimed for a 100 point concours restoration it would have been much less expensive...but what would be the point of just another trailer queen?

There are dozens of standard TCs for sale but they are basically a pre War design and simply don't cut the mustard on today's roads. I looked at all the options and decided the car needed to be usable. What I should have done is thoroughly cost the project. Whatever the outcome, failure to do that has been a serious mistake.

What I decided to do was build a TC that could be used and enjoyed by anyone. When finished it will be a unique kind of "resto mod" which will be instantly recognised as a 1949 TC... but on closer examination will reveal a host of interesting "tweaks" that will, hopefully, enhance the driving experience.

If I had bought a good original car I would have kept it like that. As it happened, I bought a hateful "bodge job" that was contrived to do one thing ,,,,fool the buyer; in that it was a success.