Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Ray White]

Today I went further with refurbishing the headlamps. The chrome is not too bad and the small dents and scratches that are carelessly caused by the bonnet corners would normally be acceptable but I am not about to start cutting corners. The chrome platers want the lamp bowls and rims free of fittings etc so I have (carefully as I can) removed the rivets that hold the lamp fittings. I am keeping a careful record of where all the bits and pieces go so that I can reassemble them in the right order.

Some of you may remember I bought a fog lamp. Lucas SFT 462 - which are quite scarce now - to replace the incorrect one. I have taken the same approach with this and removed anything that the chrome platers might object to. Again, care is needed in removing the rivets and as with the headlamps the Lucas "King of the road" medallions have been removed and a photographic record made of the sequence.

One concession to originality is the fog lamp reflector, which - unlike those with the headlamps - is in reasonable condition. There is also an issue with disturbing the reflector and glass lens which, unfortunately, are crimped together. Best leave well alone I think!

[Ray White]

The petrol cap needs a new cork seal and re plating so I drilled out the little hinge pin using my Dremel with flexible attachment.



With the cap removed from the tank I carefully ground off the end of the rivet releasing the two steel cups and spring; the cork seal had long ago disintegrated.



It was tricky prising off the outer brass cover; the edge was peened over a steel disc and required patience... but it came apart eventually.







I can now include the brass outer part of the cap with the other items to be chrome plated.
.

[Ray White]

The radiator shell will require work. there is a fracture at the bottom of the central bar which will have to be brazed and then the shell will need to be chrome plated.



As can be seen the original rubber bonnet rest tape is badly perished and will need to be replaced. It quite literally fell to bits.



It is obvious that red paint had been applied in haste. With the shell removed it will give me the chance to strip and paint the slats properly. The new upholstery will be "biscuit" and as the slats should traditionally match the interior the question is which shade of beige would I use.

I have yet to order the seat coverings etc. as the body tub is still not ready; however, I do have a new hood and sidescreens so perhaps I should use them as a guide.

True to form, the radiator shell was only held on with two screws = and even they were wrong. On removal of the headlamp supports, I discovered that the p.o. had even managed to get 1/4"" UNF set screws into BS threads!.

(So help me God....)

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

The double hump scuttle top is a prominent feature of T series cars and fortunately mine is in reasonable condition; the Australian climate again has saved it. Surface rust, however, is inevitable and there is some deeper corrosion at one end where the screen mounts can trap moisture. There are also a couple of small cracks on the front edge that want welding. I expect this is from where the panel has been stored since the original dismantling back in 1960.

Of course, there is no excuse for the plonker who painted straight over the rust and this can be seen in the photo. I am kept busy with rust removal and prep for paint. Achieving a good outcome with this panel will be a challenge.

[Ray White]

Derby Plating must have a lot of work on; I delivered my parts today and they quoted an eye watering price with a 10 week wait.

In addition to various repairs they will chrome
plate all my brightwork for a negotiated price.

[Bitumen Boy]

[Ray White]

With respect, old Henry has been bodging MG T series for years. Unknown to me at the time, this individual was well known to the MG fraternity and when I said from whom I had bought the car there was a deafening silence ...followed by hoots of laughter.

I was not the only one to be taken in, however, as the MG car club gave TC 10030 their approval so it could be issued with an age related registration number. It is now a requirement that the vehicle must be restored before hand.

The paint used was Ford "radiant" red which to my eyes is rather gaudy. I have opted for the rather deeper "Reno" red; an original MG colour.

On these cars, the colour of the radiator slats should match the interior. In this case it would be beige but I am not sure that (despite being a convention) I like it. I think I prefer red.

What the purists would say about such a break with tradition , I don't know!

(Well, yes, I do actually!)

[Ray White]

Something which I think needs attention is the Lucas Altette horn. I have started on the overhaul and discovered rust under the rippled tone disc; it covers a steel diaphragm which is also a bit rusty - but I am hoping to restore these parts.

The distinctive chrome bezel is just beginning to go rusty so I have included it in the box of parts now with the platers. It is a genuine Lucas part but interestingly, there is no makers stamping of any kind. I have discovered from hooter expert Taff the horn's website that this is correct for 1949 or thereabouts.

It would appear that the horn I have is mounted upside down. (the car was exported to Australia, after all ...)

Parts are available but I need to dismantle the horn to establish exactly what I need.

The central 9/16" dome nut is in good condition as are 5 of the six acorn nuts; one of them will need replacing.




I want to remove the studs from the cast iron housing but so far they are rusted solid. Some penetrating oil overnight might free them.


. :

This evening I delved further into the horn and removed the diaphragm. Unfortunately I was unable to get a resistance reading from the coil so it may be game over.

[Ray White]

I have to say I am feeling quite pleased with myself this morning because I have found the reason why the horn was not working.

Yes, there was an electrical fault which indicated the coil was not passing a current but that problem has been resolved by cleaning the points. I have a resistance of 0.8 Ohms which is close enough to the 0.75 required.

The main problem is that someone has separated the diaphragm from the armature ... but put it back the wrong way round.

The diaphragm will only vibrate if the armature - to which it is attached - is drawn to the core by electromagnetic attraction. In order for this to happen the diaphragm has 'in' and 'out' positions.

According to the Luca instructions:

"..when the horn push is pressed, current flows through the closed contacts of the contact breaker and energises the coil. The coil core is thus magnetised and attracts the armature to towards the core face. The contact breaker opens each time the armature is pulled down to the core; de energising the magnet system and causing the cycle to be related at a frequency determined by the characteristics of the diaphragm..."

Someone had replaced the diaphragm in the 'in' position so the magnetised core was attempting to pull the armature down... but as it was already 'in' it couldn't move any further.

The parts have cleaned up quite well and I have replaced them in the correct order. I now hope to have a working horn before long.

diaphragm before and after.

[peter scott]

Excellent news!

Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Ray White]

Thanks for your help, Peter.

Thanks also to all the other contributors who have given so generously of their time and advise.

[Peter_L]

[Vulgalour]

These recent posts are really nicely written, illustrated, and paced. A very welcome read of your progress. I wonder, did your car used to be blue originally? If it were, then the cream grille inserts to match the interior would look a lot nicer. I'm with you on the red grille inserts on a red car, the cream ones don't look quite right even though it is 'correct'.

[Ray White]