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petrol gauge project.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7309
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 12:25 am    Post subject: petrol gauge project. Reply with quote

It came as a surprise to me that the MG TC - 10,000 of which were produced between 1945 and 1949 - was quite poorly equipped. For one thing, there was no petrol gauge. Instead the driver had to rely on a "low fuel" waring light.

In my rebuild I have vowed to have a normal fuel gauge and to this end, in addition to completely restoring all my other TC instruments, I have commissioned John Marks of Vintage Restorations, Tunbridge Wells, to build me a matching fuel gauge.

John, who has a good reputation when it comes to instrument restoration, happens to own the "British Jaeger" trade mark which is what my MG instruments are... so they should look pretty smart and correct!

Having sorted the gauge I am now faced with the problem of fitting a suitable sender unit. The MG T types all had "slab" tanks strapped to the back of the car. Most fuel tanks fitted to cars these days are sort of flat in shape. A problem occurs in so far as the float on presently available gauge type sender units have a fairly limited movement. The ones I have seen have a hinged rod with a plastic float on the end. This works for a flatish tank but not on a slab tank where the petrol is stored vertically.

I think I would need to mount a sender unit in one side of the tank with an extended rod; reaching almost to the other side of the tank, to allow for the greater distance that the float would need to travel?

I welcome any ideas. Can anyone think of a vehicle which has a "tall" fuel tank these days?
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mikeC



Joined: 31 Jul 2009
Posts: 1816
Location: Market Warsop, Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I it worth investigating a Triumph Herald unit? They had a tank that was quite tall.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7223
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think your long armed tank unit will be the easiest route by far. Unfortunately it will be visible on the outside. You could just always fill the tank full and rely on resetting the trip each time. I don't think your average fuel consumption will vary dramatically.

Peter
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7309
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikeC wrote:
I it worth investigating a Triumph Herald unit? They had a tank that was quite tall.


Good point Mike. I will look into it.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are determined to have a gauge there are some viable ideas here possibly the marine sensor:
http://www.mg-cars.net/mgtd-mgtf1500-bbs/fitting-a-proper-fuel-guage-2015120320194521555.htm
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7309
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
I think your long armed tank unit will be the easiest route by far. Unfortunately it will be visible on the outside. You could just always fill the tank full and rely on resetting the trip each time. I don't think your average fuel consumption will vary dramatically.

Peter


I am not unduly concerned about it being seen; in fact the existing sender unit (which just operates a switch) is on the outside behind the spare wheel. True, it is not obvious even with spoked wheels... but I have a cunning plan! Rolling Eyes

At either end there are cover plates which simply bolt on. If I can slightly recess the unit into one side I should be able to hide it.

That's the plan, anyway. Whether it works out like that or not will depend on my welding/soldering skills. Confused
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the float is in the mid point of the tank then you can get away without fitting baffles but you might not get the the full tank depth measured using an existing sender but you could bias it to the lower part since that is the important range.

Peter
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:


At either end there are cover plates which simply bolt on. If I can slightly recess the unit into one side I should be able to hide it.



The tank plus end dressings still needs to fit between the mud guards. The existing sender position could be used if you just wanted a gauge of the lower range of your tank. I wonder if a flexible rather than rigid arm would help??

Peter
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traction39



Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 399
Location: South Wales

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the MG slab tanks had baffles in them? These would hang up the arm and float? One of the MG specialists has a “blue print” online so you can see the construction. I know my slab tank on my Riley 9 special has this problem (believe it was from a J2 when it was constructed in the ‘50’s). I looked at various other methods all of which looked too modern. I ended up with a Rotherhams of Coventry type. I did not pay the £300+ but found one on “Gumtree” The length was correct for my tank which was lucky. No electrics and the tank can take 100 gallons when full!! Up until then I used a dip stick and kept a spare 5 litres!!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7309
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

traction39 wrote:
I thought the MG slab tanks had baffles in them? These would hang up the arm and float? One of the MG specialists has a “blue print” online so you can see the construction. I know my slab tank on my Riley 9 special has this problem (believe it was from a J2 when it was constructed in the ‘50’s). I looked at various other methods all of which looked too modern. I ended up with a Rotherhams of Coventry type. I did not pay the £300+ but found one on “Gumtree” The length was correct for my tank which was lucky. No electrics and the tank can take 100 gallons when full!! Up until then I used a dip stick and kept a spare 5 litres!!


Yes, the baffles are indeed doing their job. (I am baffled most of the time Rolling Eyes )

The tank will need to be taken apart anyway. In the past someone cut the back open probably to install a smaller tank as a result of the original one leaking and then welded it back up again. I expect the original 'spot' welds in the bottom leaked as is often the case with these TC tanks but I should be able to repair them. It is possible, I suppose, that the tank was modified for competition use. Until I get to see inside I am just speculating.

With the tank opened up, if necessary I should be able to cut a pathway through the baffles and re design them.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This one appears to have baffles but maybe it was built specially?


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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7309
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
Ray White wrote:


At either end there are cover plates which simply bolt on. If I can slightly recess the unit into one side I should be able to hide it.



The tank plus end dressings still needs to fit between the mud guards. The existing sender position could be used if you just wanted a gauge of the lower range of your tank. I wonder if a flexible rather than rigid arm would help??

Peter


I like the idea of a flexible arm! I don't think there will be a problem with the rear wings getting in the way. At least I hope not. I agree the lower levels are the most important.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 2149
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/392285917892?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=392285917892&targetid=594043213390&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046250&poi=&campaignid=6466403028&mkgroupid=78240852180&rlsatarget=aud-629407025185:pla-594043213390&abcId=1140486&merchantid=6995734&gclid=CjwKCAjw2qHsBRAGEiwAMbPoDONWsud0xfRcRTxK6MP27c7gW11UYI5HG4KRCRoCgoasyCemAyS4zRoCCSYQAvD_BwE

The above sort of thing, perhaps?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7309
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent Alastair ...but how does it work?

(Please be patient with me)
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 2149
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Dellow has a 15 gallon fuel tank, stuck on the back like the MG's.
Dellows also didn't have a fuel gauge.
Aside from the fact that to fill the tank would be beyond my [pension-supported] means...I have a long piece of hardwood, about 1/2" square....and spent a happy morning sniffing petrol fumes whilst I drained the tank to stuttering point...then added one gallon after another, marking the fuel dipstick [literally..a stick!]......until my wallet cried ''enough''....
The marks were scorched in using one of those cheap cordless soldering irons [from Liddel]....
The stick lives behind seats ...[I must produce a purpose-made pair of clips for it.]

Wood is best, in my view, as the fuel level can be clearly seen on the [dark] wood...I did consider brass...but couldn't find any brass long enough to reach the tank bottom from the filler. Besides, petrol is harder to see on metal.

I might, one day, affix a posh handle to the top of the stick...but that day will be a long time coming [I don't 'do' external picnic baskets either]...
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