Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Vulgalour]

It's not something we're going to worry about, it's a lot of effort for no real gain and you can't save them all.

Well, that was a pleasant day. No pressure to fix anything, no deadline to get a certain amount of work done by a certain point, just a bit of a plod along and a note taking to see where I'm at. Only doing a visual physical inspection, no multimeter work, no connecting the battery, just double checking things look like they're where they're supposed to be and making a record of it to work from.

All the wiring in the boot looks to be okay, no sign of damaged or loose connections. I put connectors on the extensions for the indicators, but that was it. I'll deal with connecting those up later since that's an addition to the original wiring. I'm also undecided if I should run the high level brake wiring from the driver's side lamp directly (like the passenger side lamp is), or splice it into the loom inside the boot. A decision for another day that since we're a way off that part of the job.


Visually, we can mark off all the rear lights, and the fuel tank sender. All the wires and connections are present and accounted for and I labelled some wires for quick reference so I don't have to keep remembering what colours are for what. In the middle of the car, the driver's side semaphore is connected and installed, the passenger side one isn't. The brake light switch under the floor is also connected.

The interior light is still connected and looks no different to how we did it last time when it worked.

For the dashboard, I didn't get as far as making a note of the wiring colours to the instrument panel, it's an awkward job to do with the panel installed. The wiper motor, cigar lighter, and flashing indicators are currently disconnected

I checked the ignition switch and it is wired as per one of the diagrams I have for it:
A - A1 and a yellow wire
A3/Ignition - A3 (white) and Coil (white)
T - EMPTY
L - Sidelights (red, x2)
H - Dip switch (blue)

I don't know what the white with black trace is for at the moment beyond a diagram suggesting it's for the clock. Something to investigate another time, not on the docket for today.


Voltage regulator (Lucas RF95) wiring I left exactly as it is, there's no sign of any wires having pulled out or similar, it is wired like so:
A1 - Ignition Switch (yellow)
A - Starter Motor (yellow/black)
A2 - Horn (yellow/black), and Interior Light (purple)
F - Dynamo Field(green/black)
D - Dynamo Main (yellow), and Ignition Clock possibly (white/black)
A4 - Horn push (purple/black), and stop light (purple/black)
A4 - EMPTY (there's two sockets labelled A4)
E - Earth x2 (black for both)
A3 - Ignition A3 (white) and Coil (white)

There are some wires that should go the voltage regulator that are currently disconnected, as follows:
Wiper motor (purple/black)
Cigar Lighter (slate)
Inspection Lamp (yellow/black)

All the harness connectors at the bulkhead join look to be physically sound and connected well.


Likewise, the connectors for the harness where it emerges from the chassis at the front all look to be physically sound and connected well. I did find the oil sender and coil connections were loose, so tightened those up properly since that wasn't too arduous a task.


Dynamo was reinstalled, this was a mission because of the new fan belt and required the radiator to be removed to get access with a pry bar to align things for the second pivot bolt. The new belt is a much tighter fit than the old one but should bed in okay, it doesn't seem to be so tight it's stressing any bearings or similar. With that in I could replace the snapped off eyelet and reconnect the wiring the correct way around. This wasn't a job on the docket for today, it just ended up happening. While I was in this area I also cleaned up the earth point on the handbrake cable bracket, tightened that, and secured the starter motor bowden cable with a better bolt so it shouldn't slip out again.




I do need to grease the water pump before we start the engine again. Starter motor wiring looked to be secure and sound. Horns were properly secured to their brackets, access is a pig for this job so it was no fun. I will be replacing the blue and brown wires with yellow/black and yellow/purple (or the nearest I can get) to match the main harness. I've labelled the horn wiring so I know which ones go to which side of the car. I need to order some new bullet connectors as I don't have enough of the right size in stock currently.

Up front, the headlights require new bullet connectors to replace the spade connectors I used when initially assembling everything, especially the one failed crimp for an earth wire. This is another item added to my shopping list. The original sidelight location has been changed to the headlights and the wiring for those looks okay.

The new flashing indicators at the front will be in the original sidelight housings. These are not connected yet. Green/white for the driver's side and green/red for the passenger side. I need to figure out the best earth solution for these in the future, not something I was going to do today.

After that was done I spent some time tidying and putting a few bits back on the car for ease of storage. The other auxilliary light (neither are wired up yet) was loosely plonked in its hole and the front bumper quickly bolted on but not adjusted. Everything that didn't need to be in the car was removed to make access to the wiring as easy as possible and to give some working space in the car itself.


The goal today wasn't to fix anything - though some minor jobs did happen - it was to find and set a baseline for future investigation. That's why I didn't get the multimeter out or even connect the battery, that can come later once I've recorded the wiring for the instrument panel.

It was actually just really pleasant to take my time on this, not worry about the camera for photos or videos, and just enjoy tidying and tinkering and putting right some small things. Because I now don't have to empty out the car of stuff, or even move that much out of the way to get it out of the garage, when it comes to doing the testing I should have an easier time of it.

[peter scott]

Front "spoiler" and two Stadium overtakers added.

Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[peter scott]

Front "spoiler" and two Stadium overtakers added.

Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Vulgalour]

Keeping it period. Here's another video.

https://youtu.be/PNru_KdTbXY

You'll have to forgive the lack of updates on this lately. Things are a bit wibbly wobbly here so Lanchester attention is reduced to rolling it out of the garage once a week to give it an inspection and rolling it back in again. It's safe, no worries there, we just can't make the progress we'd like right now.

[Vulgalour]

It is with regret that I must announce the Lanchester is now up for sale.

Unfortunately I shan't be able to bring you a conclusion to this story. Personal reasons force the sale on this one, and it's not a financial thing, but I don't wish to go into it further than that.

I will do a more proper sale advert once I've taken photos of the car as it stands and the spares, and got together a more concise description of where the project sits presently.

We will be asking £3,000 for the car and the spares that came from the donor car. It has a V5 in my name and a transferable registration (though that would be a shame since it is original to the car)

[Vulgalour]

Even though it's up for sale, the video updates will continue for a little while yet on this project. This time around, it's dealing with woodworm.

https://youtu.be/w031-mElIlc

One day I will let you all know why this has happened, even if things change and for some reason we end up being able to keep it. For now, I'll just keep posting the content because it's useful knowledge for anyone wanting to know what this type of car is like to work on. This is a much loved car both by us and seemingly everyone else that encounters it, definitely going to be a sale we regret.

[Vulgalour]

Time for another video. This time it's rescuing and fitting the boot interior trims.

https://youtu.be/nqKi_zk0QEM?feature=shared

[peter scott]

[Rick]

Shame that you're having to part with the LD10, but these things happen and something else will come along I'm sure.

RJ
_________________
Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop

[Vulgalour]

Good news! A solution to the cause of the sale has presented itself and this car is no longer for sale. What a relief.

Apologies if you wanted to buy it.

[Penman]

It's amazing what a lottery ticket can do.
_________________
Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

[Bitumen Boy]

[peter scott]

Excellent!
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Vulgalour]

In this instalment we upgrade from BPF to H4 headlights and we finally get the rear lights to work properly. Luckily for us, this Lanchester has 7" headlights so there's a lot of choice for upgrade kits, I went for domed glass lenses to match the originals as closely as possible and because LED headlights just look wrong on cars this old. The long and short of the rear light issue is that there was an earth problem, it took me a while to find it.

https://youtu.be/9MOMes2vlcM?feature=shared

[Vulgalour]

Also thank you for the positive comments. Things are still a bit wibbly wobbly here unfortunately and there never seems to be enough hours in the day to get through everything. At least the Lanchester is safe and progress will continue, allbeit a little slower at the moment. Thank goodness for all this video backlog so I can keep you all entertained with my struggles.