|
|
| Author |
Message |
Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6318
Location: Derby
|
 Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 1:19 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
Could this work at all?
Please feel free to make suggestions or amend.
 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ray
I think there’s a simpler way.
Install the harness following the original diagram or whatever the supplier provided, using the original dashboard switches. Install it loosely, you need a little slack.
As a test, it will work as originally intended.
Find a good spot for the 3 relays, near the harness, probably where the side, head & horn wires leave the main harness.
Install the relays, connect 85 to the securing screw/bolt – this is the earth for the relays.
Cut the low beam, high beam & horn wires. Add spade connectors & connect them to 86 (in from the switch/button) & 87 (out to the light/horn).
Add one new heavy wire from the battery/A1 to 30 on all three relays.
You have now protected your delicate dashboard switches!
Hella & others make 4-terminal relays with built-in fuses.
New wire from battery ----- 30 85 ----- earth
/ \
Harness-----------------86--/ \--87------------ light
_________________
Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S' |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6318
Location: Derby
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| MVPeters wrote: | Ray
I think there’s a simpler way.
Install the harness following the original diagram or whatever the supplier provided, using the original dashboard switches. Install it loosely, you need a little slack.
As a test, it will work as originally intended.
Find a good spot for the 3 relays, near the harness, probably where the side, head & horn wires leave the main harness.
Install the relays, connect 85 to the securing screw/bolt – this is the earth for the relays.
Cut the low beam, high beam & horn wires. Add spade connectors & connect them to 86 (in from the switch/button) & 87 (out to the light/horn).
Add one new heavy wire from the battery/A1 to 30 on all three relays.
You have now protected your delicate dashboard switches!
Hella & others make 4-terminal relays with built-in fuses.
New wire from battery ----- 30 85 ----- earth
/ \
Harness-----------------86--/ \--87------------ light |
As my car is positive earth (and will remain so) the earth is 86 which is important when using my relays with diodes.
I can't do much more until I have a dashboard. I just want to know if my schematic will work or have I gone wrong somewhere. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Earth polarity noted, I think that's fine.
I can't see your diagram working, it seems to be in perpetual motion! There's no feed out to the lights/horn shown.
_________________
Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S' |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6318
Location: Derby
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 6:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| MVPeters wrote: | Earth polarity noted, I think that's fine.
I can't see your diagram working, it seems to be in perpetual motion! There's no feed out to the lights/horn shown. |
As I see it, the complication is that the lights are split between two switches; the one on the right in the diagram would normally send current from H to the horn push/dip switch. Referring to the original wiring diagram that I posted it is the blue wire. From the right hand relay I have 85 to H on the right switch and 87 to the dip switch on the left. The two relays to the left are needed to protect the dip switch and the horn push is the relay (above left) with 87 going to the horn out. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4105
Location: South Cheshire
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 7:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hi Ray
The relay on the right is redundant as it will only ever switch the High & Low beam relays.
87 on all relays is the "output" so should go to the lamps / horn not back in to the switches.
A1 on the RF95 need to go to A on the light switch as well as 30 on the relays.
Dave |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 7:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
As per Mike comment. The electrical circuitry is wrong. When you apply -ve (i.e switched on.) All the relays will operate at the same time
Not sure what is happening contact wise inside your switches put looks to me if the Bulb and Horn load is still passing through the switch contacts.
I am confident that there is more than one of us on here who can sort it and do a drawing but if more than one submits it is going to be ultra confusing.. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6318
Location: Derby
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 7:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thank you Gentlemen.
The saying is you can't teach an old dog new tricks.
We may be able to prove an exception to the rule!  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 7:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Ray.. As a comment, it's your vehicle after all, but personally, I don't like the single fuse approach. If one fuse blows then you will be silenced and left in the dark. My approach and I have built rally cars and similar "road trip" vehicles. I would use at least one fuse for the load to a left dip and right main beam, another for the right dip and left main beam and a third for the horn. Auxiliary lights would also be separate, but that's what I would do. not what I am saying you should do. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6318
Location: Derby
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 8:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Peter_L wrote: | | Ray.. As a comment, it's your vehicle after all, but personally, I don't like the single fuse approach. If one fuse blows then you will be silenced and left in the dark. My approach and I have built rally cars and similar "road trip" vehicles. I would use at least one fuse for the load to a left dip and right main beam, another for the right dip and left main beam and a third for the horn. Auxiliary lights would also be separate, but that's what I would do. not what I am saying you should do. |
Good point.
I have only shown one fuse for simplicity. Actually, I have two fuses in the de activated regulator and a separate box (shown previously) with four more. I will have further fuses if required.
I may be criticised for having so many relays but I shall be installing the four here plus one for the ignition (as in all later cars) and one which came with the alternator. I think there probably needs to be one for the heater and another for the fan.
I also have a couple of relays in a "black box" that MG guru Delan Burns in Germany has sent me as part of the hydrostatic petrol gauge. That will be an interesting installation!
The car will have flashing indicators and hazards and the ancient brake light switch may also need some protection but I will cross that bridge etc.
My ambitions for this MG may not suit some people but hopefully I will not have made any changes that cannot easily be returned to stock by some future owner should they so wish. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6318
Location: Derby
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 10:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Incidentally, I realise that my diagram omits 'bridges' over wires. Having said that, there are no occasions where they join at a crossing point.
The point that I am presently wrestling with is an apparent conflict of advice. I had been led to believe that it would be acceptable to connect the wire which goes from A1 to all the wires connecting at 30 on the relays. I can't see it makes any difference if it is done like this or individual wires are used.  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 11:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Ray White wrote: | Incidentally, I realise that my diagram omits 'bridges' over wires. Having said that, there are no occasions where they join at a crossing point.
The point that I am presently wrestling with is an apparent conflict of advice. I had been led to believe that it would be acceptable to connect the wire which goes from A1 to all the wires connecting at 30 on the relays. I can't see it makes any difference if it is done like this or individual wires are used. |
That's acceptable, but on your drawing you have all #'s 85, which is the relay coil, connected to a single point and you don't have the relay switching the load.
Simple drawing:
Last edited by Peter_L on Wed Jan 27, 2021 11:46 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 11:24 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| I'll send (post) you a "simple drawing" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6318
Location: Derby
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 11:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Peter_L wrote: | | I'll send (post) you a "simple drawing" |
Thank you. I must admit to not understanding clearly.
I am also confused about the requirement for more than one source of supply; eg the battery and fuse box, when I only have the fuse box being supplied by the battery.? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 12:36 am Post subject: |
|
|
deleted
Last edited by Peter_L on Thu Jan 28, 2021 6:00 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
