Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 1:59 pm Post subject: New Petrol tank - mild or stainless? |
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My original TC petrol tank needs replacing but I am undecided about which sort to buy.
My preference would be for stainless steel but I am tempted with the cheaper mild steel alternative.
The advice I have been given is that a mild steel tank will out live me!
HOWEVER!
My concern is that as I am not likely to be using the car through the winter months, and if I leave it full of fuel then it will go off. I don't fancy trying to dispose of 13 litres of stale petrol!
Then again, if I drain it down I expect the empty tank will go rusty inside.?
Originally, petrol tanks were lined with a lead based coating to stop rust. That is not the case now.
If I go with stainless steel will I be wasting my money as some people have said?
Incidentally, prices inc. VAT for mild steel is £440.
Stainless steel is £660. |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1954 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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An option that could be considered is, to go for mildewed steel [to save pennies]...and when intending to 'lay-the-car-up'...to run your travelling[pump] fuel down, suck out the rest, and re-fill, or partly fill, the tank with the Sunoco stuff linked to below. perhaps?
The Sunoco stuff is going to last [3-4 years, so the blurb says]...so could be fine if you decide to take a run out in the middle of February?
Expensive, as fuel go [£2.50 a litre], Sunoco also do higher octane fuels, a thought because you're supercharging the poor wee thing!
Of course, providing you have a few large plaggycans for storage over the fine weather...the Sunoco stuff could be emptied out, and ordinary pump fuel then put into the tank, for driving?
Then, the following winter, repeat the process?
Since the quoted fuel has no ethanol in it, then there won't be the issues of any water or condensation sucking the ethanol out of the remaining fuel, to create a strong acid, sitting next to the metal of the tank?
Incidentally, it won't matter a damn whether the tank is made of mild or stainless steel in those citcumstances....it won't be rust that becomes the issue, but the droplets of acid sitting next to the metal.
https://aaoil.co.uk/product/r-storage-plus/ _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 3:53 pm Post subject: |
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Am I right in thinking your petrol tank is on display at the back of your car?
It's just that stainless steel can be hard to get paint to adhere to.
Something to consider. You might need a special primer. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you gents. Since posting I have been in touch with Michael Beakhouse of 'Sportscar Metalworks'. He has confirmed that their mild steel tanks are not coated ... but he has recently heard from someone who has had no rust issues with a tank they made in the 1970s....however, he made the essential point that the car must be used regularly. If left standing for lengthy periods, stainless might be the way to go.
I am minded to opt for stainless steel for peace of mind. The cost is a one off... and I presume a selling point should the need arise.?
I honestly hadn't thought about paint not sticking to the metal. I will need to give it a good "key" and use an etch primer. The tank, although behind the spare wheel, is visible and that has caused me some stress.
My biggest headache at the moment is that the body is slightly "out" relative to the chassis at the back. This doesn't show up until the tank is offered up. There is a noticeable difference between the wings and the sides of the tank one side compared to the other. There should be a 5/8" gap and getting this the same both sides is difficult. Either the chassis or the body (or both) are not quite square.
The wings fit differently left to right as well ...so I am having a right time of it. I WILL get it right...EVENTUALLY!! |
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2022 2:27 am Post subject: |
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I think stainless would be my preference. Not just because of the nasties they've put in today's petrol but the other nasties they might put in it going forward.
Of course you would need to be confident that the stainless tank was made from a decent grade of stainless. There are many many different grades of stainless steel and some are practically indestructible but some have little more resistance to corrosion than ordinary mild steel with a bright zinc plating - and it's not easy for us ordinary mortals to tell the difference. |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3819 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2022 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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I have only had one tank re-made before. The tank on my 1950 Commer had no material left on the underside at all! I had it remade locally by a chap who specialises in Aluminium.
The finished tank although being expensive was correct to even the smallest profile. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Mog
Joined: 30 Dec 2007 Posts: 661 Location: Sydney
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 4:10 am Post subject: |
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The name of the material you want is Terne for your petrol tank . He should be able to make a tank out of this , provided it is soldered together .
Rolls Royce used this for their petrol tanks . Only expensive cars had tanks made in Terne coated sheets ! |
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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Mog wrote: | The name of the material you want is Terne for your petrol tank . He should be able to make a tank out of this , provided it is soldered together .
Rolls Royce used this for their petrol tanks . Only expensive cars had tanks made in Terne coated sheets ! |
Terne plate is a lead coating, isn't it? Probably not available these days either because of the lead or just because there's no demand for it. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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I discussed Terne with Michael Beakhouse or "metal Micky" as he is known. He says he has done this before but will not be doing it again. He cited environment and health reasons ...
I gave him an order for a stainless steel tank based purely on good results reported by other MG owners.
I don't normally whinge about the expense but this rebuild is getting out of hand now! |
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lowdrag
Joined: 10 Apr 2009 Posts: 1585 Location: Le Mans
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 9:28 am Post subject: |
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I have experience of both, and have perceived no difference. The E-type I have had nearly forty years and am on the second tank, replaced fourteen years back. That was mild steel, and rusted from the outside due to the sound deadening material under it getting wet and slowly rusting the tank away. but it had lasted nearly 100,000 miles and twenty five years in all weathers The replacement, since we left the material out, seems to be in fine form still and will probably outlast me. The other has baffles and fire retardant foam inside as per regulations and did suffer from a split (probably due to stress and vibration) which required emptying, cleaning, new foam and welding, but that is the only problem and that tank is 35 years old. If buying mild steel, which as you say is cheaper, buy a can of Slosh and treat it before fitting.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/slosh-fuel-tank-sealer-7 |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 11:28 am Post subject: |
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lowdrag wrote: | I have experience of both, and have perceived no difference. The E-type I have had nearly forty years and am on the second tank, replaced fourteen years back. That was mild steel, and rusted from the outside due to the sound deadening material under it getting wet and slowly rusting the tank away. but it had lasted nearly 100,000 miles and twenty five years in all weathers The replacement, since we left the material out, seems to be in fine form still and will probably outlast me. The other has baffles and fire retardant foam inside as per regulations and did suffer from a split (probably due to stress and vibration) which required emptying, cleaning, new foam and welding, but that is the only problem and that tank is 35 years old. If buying mild steel, which as you say is
cheaper, buy a can of Slosh and treat it before fitting.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/slosh-fuel-tank-sealer-7 |
I would not expect to find that much internal rust in a tank that has been in use for 35 years as regardless of what coating may have had when new it has been subject to continuous contact with leaded petrol. The lead will not have washed off when unleaded came along. It would seem the biggest threat comes from a modern condensation/Ethanol combination. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Ray
If you are concerned about the durability of paint adhering to stainless, why not get the tank wrapped, shouldn't be too expensive, plenty of places do it these days.
Dave |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 3:53 pm Post subject: |
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ukdave2002 wrote: | Hi Ray
If you are concerned about the durability of paint adhering to stainless, why not get the tank wrapped, shouldn't be too expensive, plenty of places do it these days.
Dave |
I am not sure. With a good key and an etch primer I would expect to be able to do it in paint. I am painting the car in an original MG colour they call "Reno". (I suspect it is just another word for Regency Red!!.).
I think the problem with a wrap would be getting a perfect match.
I do like some things wrapped through. I bought some chrome effect for the steering column and made quite a nice job of it even if I say so myself.! The end result fooled my neighbour who thought I had splashed out on chrome!
The downside was that the finish was terribly vulnerable and scratched easily so I removed it and painted the shaft black which is easy to touch up if needed. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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Ahh yes, I was forgetting the tank is the painted in body colour, you would be unlikely to get anything like a close match, Red also being the worst colour to match !
Dave |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2022 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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ukdave2002 wrote: | Ahh yes, I was forgetting the tank is the painted in body colour, you would be unlikely to get anything like a close match, Red also being the worst colour to match !
Dave |
MY wife suggested I have the whole car wrapped.
She must have been watching too much telly! |
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