Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Ray White]

This is a fairly new switch that I fitted a few months ago. It was connected but has never been used. When I had difficulty in removing the spade connectors I thought something must be amis. What I hadn't expected to find was such an alarming degree of corrosion. Interestingly, the one terminal that had not been connected seems to be unaffected.

I presume it is some kind of galvanic reaction with the terminal fittings ... but I don't really know what causes it. I have ordered a new switch but will be sure to use some petroleum jelly or suchlike to try and prevent it happening again.

I just thought fellow contributors might be interested.

[kevin2306]

Ray

Get yourself a tube of Contralube.
Ukdave recommended it to me years back, fantastic stuff and will prevent a reoccurance.

[Ray White]

[Bitumen Boy]

If this has been fitted to your MG then it's alarming indeed, but whatever it's fitted to it shouldn't corrode like that over a few months - something is sadly wrong here. It should take years of use in a notably harsh environment to get to that state, IMHO.

[lowdrag]

An astounding and alarming thing to happen. I have fitted battery cut-outs on my two cars for years and have not suffered. I assume your battery must have been connected?

[Ray White]

The incredible thing is that the battery is NOT connected!. I have never seen anything quite like this before but the worrying thing is that I don't know if it is the switch or the terminals to blame.

I am now going to check all my other connections.

I don't have enough to worry about, obviously!

[ukdave2002]

I’ll wager that the female connector is brass?

Dave

[Ray White]

[ukdave2002]

[Ray White]

Dave. I didn't consider corrosion with regard to the Galvanic scale.



You have a good point. I will know another time.

[alastairq]

Some modern electrical connectors seem to be aluminium as well.

When I ran rear-engined Skodas, I used to suffer [like many other owners] from dodgy PAL connectors to the headlight bulbs.

The cure , in my case, was to visit a local scrappy [when they existed in abundance]....with a tesco carrier bag and a pair of snips....and remove all the headlight connectors from any Japanese make of motorcar.
These were then spliced [soldered] into the wiring in place of the PAL items [the wiring itself was made of a suspect material too]..
Problem cured.

[PAL seemed to make a lot of stuff on contract to Lucas, which might explain a lot? Not sure which way the reliability went? From Lucas to PAL, or PAL to Lucas??]
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

I think there must have been a lot of complaints about this particular switch (FS0600) because they used to be everywhere but now seem to have all but disappeared from sale.!!

I have ordered a replacement from 'Car Builder Solutions' from whom I bought the heater originally but will not be using brass connectors again!

I haven't raised the corrosion issue with CBS because they would only ask me to return it ...and I have modified the shaft by filing it down to take a brass terminal block to which I have fitted my own matching control knob.

I am very pleased with the way this modification has come together utilising a scrap Morris Minor dashboard mounted cable bezel. Behind the instrument panel, the assembly is neatly concealed inside a discreet chromed tube... (which is actually a plastic domestic radiator valve cover!). The brass bezel securing nut is actually a perfect fit in one end and the other end neatly threads onto the switch.

Importantly, it is not in the least bit floppy and feels every bit as good as the original.


This little job is not quite finished but when it is I will post some photos.