Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1954
Location: East Yorkshire
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 Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 1:33 pm Post subject: |
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No need to remove the distributor to test for bearing wear. Simply remove cap, grasp rotor arm and see if there is any sideways movement [wobble]? If there is unwanted movement, then the dizzy needs to be removed [very easy job really].
The vacuum advance can be checked by removing the [rubber?] hose, and sucking on it whilst watching the baseplate of the distributor for movement [cap off for this, obviously].
Or, having purchased off ebay very cheaply, use a vacuum pump connected to the vacuum advance can on the dizzie, and see if the baseplate moves when suction is applied? [The latter if wary of attaching lips to anything but a straw in a wine glass.]
Whilst the dizzy cap is off, might be worth checking the little sprung carbon contact in its centre? This might have become chewed up or dislodged, or AWOL completely?
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Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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CWhaley1
Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 61
Location: Derbyshire
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| Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 3:29 pm Post subject: Re: Singer |
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| peter scott wrote: |
I'm rather confused by your test of the vacuum system. If you disconnected the tube from the carb I wouldn't expect to detect anything from the tube although I guess if you were able to suck down the tube it would theoretically allow you to advance the ignition timing (which would increase the revs).
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I was expecting to feel a suction at the carb end of the tube as the diaphragm pumped. I may have understood it incorrectly -- my knowledge of these cars is growing all the time and as of yet I've only had to replace parts under the cap and keep it lubricated. |
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CWhaley1
Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 61
Location: Derbyshire
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| Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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| alastairq wrote: | No need to remove the distributor to test for bearing wear. Simply remove cap, grasp rotor arm and see if there is any sideways movement [wobble]? If there is unwanted movement, then the dizzy needs to be removed [very easy job really].
The vacuum advance can be checked by removing the [rubber?] hose, and sucking on it whilst watching the baseplate of the distributor for movement [cap off for this, obviously].
Or, having purchased off ebay very cheaply, use a vacuum pump connected to the vacuum advance can on the dizzie, and see if the baseplate moves when suction is applied? [The latter if wary of attaching lips to anything but a straw in a wine glass.]
Whilst the dizzy cap is off, might be worth checking the little sprung carbon contact in its centre? This might have become chewed up or dislodged, or AWOL completely? |
Yes there is sideways movement, just a few mm each way enough to make it click side to side. In actual fact, one of the reasons I changed the rotor arm for a distributor doctor one was because I thought it was one of the modern Lucas ones not seating correctly (there was also no spring under the arm, unlike my replacement). The new one sits better but still clicks side to side.
That makes sense re the suction test, I'll have the cap off and see if I can make the plate move. I note you can still get replacement diaphragms but I don't replace stuff unless I know it's definitely past it. |
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