Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Traumjaegercat]

Hi All,
Can anyone solve this mystery for me. On trying to start my 1965 Humber Imperial it started to crank over then stopped. The relay was clicking but the starter motor did not respond.
Without the ignition on I tried to operate the starter with the remote solenoid. It turned once then stopped again. On checking with a test lamp from the starter connection to earth and then pressing the remote solenoid button it showed power to the starter when the remote solenoid button was pushed.

I then thought that the starter motor was at fault and took it of the car. Without dismantling anything I tried the starter motor across the battery connections and the starter operated fine. So I replaced the motor and still got the same results with the starter not operating.

Has anyone any Ideas please
Regards
Terry

[Rick]

Have you cleaned all the cable connections to the starter, battery, and earth strap(s) to the chassis? Ie all the heavy cables, including the two main battery connectors themselves.

RJ
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[V8 Nutter]

Humber Imperial is it automatic? If it is take a look at the inhibitor switch on the transmission.

[Ray White]

Pretty sure it's the battery needs charging up.

[Traumjaegercat]

Thanks all for the replies.
yes I've done all the things that you suggested. The car is automatic and has a Borg Warner DG gearbox. The inhibitor switch is not on the side of the transmission on a DG Autobox and I know there is some form of inhibitor but I'm not sure how it works and where it is. I also swapped the battery for a brand new one but to no avail. I really am puzzled.
Regards
Terry

[Ray White]

It certainly sounds odd.

When you checked the starter off the car, did it throw the bendix out? It could be sticking intermittently.

[Bitumen Boy]

[Traumjaegercat]

In answer to all the replies here is the situation at the moment.
Recharged battery and replaced.
Took off starter motor and connected direct to battery. Motor worked fine with a nice kick to it and bendix working correctly.
Replaced starter back into car and pressed remote solenoid without ignition on
No response from starter motor.
Checked with test lamp feed to starter motor without pressing solenoid button no feed.
Pressed solenoid button, test lamp lit up. This shows solenoid ok by giving feed to starter motor.
Checked for inhibitor electrical switch around the gear selector but found nothing.
Gears operated by single cable off the column change lever.
Turned ignition on and tried to start car all that happened was a clicking noise coming from the starter relay.

What I don't understand is why have I got feed to the starter if there is some form of inhibitor switch in the line but the starter doesn't operate.
Thanks guys for your help
T

[Penguin45]

I would suspect the solenoid itself. The inhibitor switch would cut power to the switched side of the solenoid, so the fact that it's clicking eliminates that. You say that the motor spins up well when power is applied directly, so that's fine. Pitted/burnt/corroded contacts within the solenoid itself would be my suspicion. They may be able to pass the tiny 9v current from a test meter, but not cope with the large demand of the starter motor under load.

Chris.
_________________
'67 Wolseley MkI 18/85, '70 Austin MkII 1800 The Landcrab Forum.

[Ray White]

I have had to send back TWO duff remote solenoids recently. I don't know where they are made now ... but I could hazard a guess!

[alastairq]

Is it a Lucas solenoid?

Have you tried a single thick jump lead bridging the two main terminals of the solenoid [bypassing it to feed 12 volts to the starter cable?]

Have you tried remaking all the engine earth leads and contacts?

Can you run a jump lead from the battery earth, directly to a mounting bolt on the starter motor?

Have you tried a jump lead direct from the battery to the starter motor terminal when in situ, and bolted up properly?

Re-the solenoid issue?
I have recently replaced the solenoid on my Dellow, after maybe...ooooo.....70 years of service?
It had started to show intermittent failure to make contact.
I believe the solenoid coil had started to fail preventing it from making a solid throw, hence connection?
I have replaced it with a 'new' one from AH spares.

On the topic of quality of new components?

I believe the 'copper' contacts use poorer quality copper[if it is used at all?] than of old. I also think the solenoid coils use thinner material, making the solenoids less powerful. A weak throw will not make a firm contact.

After all, those who send of the required specifications to the Chinese factories probably don't believe we old car buffs will use our vehicles very much at all over the next three years, so an early failure will be accepted as once being the norm, 60 years ago?
They know we will be reluctant to pay the prices required for items made to original quality standards.

The issue of quality of modern components has long been a problem for classic Mustang owners.....and older vehicle owners in general, in the US.

Even searching out respected brands means little if that respected brand still gets its stuff from the same place as the cheap brand?
Something one can only find out, after the fact?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Traumjaegercat]

Hi Penguin,
The clicking is coming from a relay next to the remote solenoid.
Alistair, the remote solenoid is a brand new old stock Lucas. I'm now going to try the other suggestions

[Ray White]

[Traumjaegercat]

Hi All,
Todays upgrade on the starter problem. I rechecked the clicking noise and it is coming from the starter solenoid not the relay next to it which I believe is for the horns.
Apart from that I took your advice and took a connection with a jump lead direct from the battery live feed to the starter motor connection by passing the solenoid.
Result, absolutely nothing. This I find totally strange as the starter motor works well when you take it off the car.
Any more ideas Guys. I'm tearing my hair out here(or what's left of it)
Regards
T

[alastairq]

Have you tried the earth connections?
Earth, using a jump lead, one of the starter mounting bolts direct to the battery earth, the try another jump lead straight to the battery live terminal, as you have done already?
I do not know whether your car is positive, or negative, earth, sorry.
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.