Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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richard 2509 Guest
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 6:35 pm Post subject: painting |
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has anybody on this forum had experience of painting with metallic cellulose? as far as im concerned there are 2 ways to go regarding paint. metallics done with a waterbased paint and a 2k lacquer topcoat or solid colours with 2k paint and no lacquer as the 2k stuff incorporates the shine. ive been painting cars at home for some time now and ive been asked to paint a car with metallic cellulose supplied. when iasked painters where i work they all shied away from it saying it was outdated, hard to work with and has been superseeded by modern stuff. any comments? |
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Old-Nail Guest
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Richard, I think Uncle Joe may be able to answer that for you when he comes along later, I see it's your first post - welcome! |
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richard 2509 Guest
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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i believe our posts have just crossed!!!!!ive just posted on your piece about home painting!!! |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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There used to be a clear for metallic cellulose, we used to call it blend-in clear.
If you have sprayed a few cars, then celly isnt so difficult.
The information you got is correct, it is outdated.... though I do know that there are some that think its the bees knees as far as paint is concerned...
Out of curiousity, what do you think of Water Based paints?
UJ |
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richard 2509 Guest
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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hello regarding waterbase paints. i use them at work. ive found that different paint companies ie standox, sikkens, glasurit etc all have different application methods. for example standox advise a light mist coat at 1.5 bar, dried thoroughly then 2 heavy coats at 2 bar pressure then a drop coat at 1.5 again.if you dont strictly adhere to this then they say the colour can be different! regarding painting at home with waterbase the main prob is that you need to force dry it somehow. ive painted the side of a car and gone back to it the next day and its still been wet! i now use infrared heaters and a hot air gun.probably the best thing about it is that it has no solvent in it to attack underlying surfaces. |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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Richard, check out the topic 'cellulose' in this section. My experience with WBP is there. Let me know what you think.
Welcome to the forum.
UJ |
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richard 2509 Guest
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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hi just read your piece regarding cellulose in which you have talked about using wbp. first off you really have to put a 2k lacquer coat over it to seal in the surface and add the shine. ive been told at work that if this is not done a power washer will blow the paint off the vehicle. whilst it is true that wbp can go straight over bare metal in practice it is better to apply etch primer 1st.regarding repairs to existing paintwork wbp is compatible with all finishes. for home use there are a couple of probs. one, it takes ages to airdry and two, it needs a 2k lacquer over it which is dangerous stuff. i have to admit that if im painting a solid colour i will use 2k direct gloss, if its metallic then water is the preferred option. ive painted with cellulose before but never metallic cellulose and the chaps at work say its difficult to avoid tramlines in the finish.... |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 8:11 am Post subject: |
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Hi Richard, I can understand your comments. When we sprayed the car, we strictly followed the recommendations of the paint manufacturer (AAC), ie, no primer coat, no clear.
I see the car regularly, and so far have not seen any adhesion problems, on the other hand, power washes arent used....! I should be seeing the car again this weekend, if I get the chance, I'll have a good look for paint problems.
Cellulose: The blend-in clear that I mentioned helps hide tramlines. So does high gun pressure and plenty thinners.
UJ |
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richard 2509 Guest
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Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 8:55 am Post subject: |
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hello.... this is a new one for me i must admit, the wbp with no clearcoat,however i did saythat different paint manufacturers have different applications. do you have to polish it up to get the shine? if this works then there would be no need for the harmful 2k element.regarding the cellulose info, if i take the job on then this will be the way to go .thanks.... |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 11:01 am Post subject: |
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We didnt polish afterwards, as on this particular car, we were quite happy with the finished sheen.
Dont forget though, we were using AAC paint, others may be different.
UJ |
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