Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Guest]

no, I am a teacher, not a school kid

[Rivet_101]

sorry, that was me...forgot to sign in...........yeah, I am a teacher

[Uncle Joe]

Sorry about that, I only put my brain in gear after I posted!

Have you seen the new forum yet? Should be just the thing for our ramblings!

[Rivet_101]

No, where?

[Rick]

I've added in a Restoration forum!! thats what Uncle J was referring to

cheers
Rick

[Uncle Joe]

A couple of days ago, I found out that there is a potential solution to the problem of priming a restoration, and then leaving it for a time.

Apparently, it is possible to first use a metal conditioner on the bodywork, then wipe on a galvaniser, then prime and seal the primer.

Does this sound interesting?

[Rivet_101]

yes, but I have heard of galvanisers eating through the paintwork later. A friend of a friend had this trouble.

[Uncle Joe]

Rivet, can you ask your friend about the exact procedure he used, including paint manufacturer?

This with galvanisíng paint is a bit too new fangled for me, so I would be interested in first hand experiences. Maybe he could join the forum?

UJ

[Rivet_101]

I will ask.

It was a while back....but will let you know.

[Uncle Joe]

There are a few thing that I find interesting about this. 1) A galvanised surface shouldn´t rust. 2) the longer you leave such a surface, the easier it is to paint afterwards. 3) For the system that I have been looking at, the recommended primer is water resistant. 4) The primer has to be sealed. Is this to prevent burning through, or to fully waterproof the primer? and finally 5) If the galvanised surface is untreated, if any rust does show through, it will be easier to repair.

UJ

[Truman\'s]

So from reading all this, can I take it that me wire brushing all of my chassis down thoroughly, keeping it dry, and then coating with coats of bonds rust primer is a no-no?

Mike

[Rivet_101]

Uncle Joe, my mate (who was pretty vague, it has to be said) said his friend used galvanised METAL. His primer and paint were nothing special. There was no problem with the galvanised metal. Apparently he did have problem with his lead loading....problems with flux? Possibly he didn't use one??? ....leading to oxidisation? Anyway, the story was vague and probably should not be cause for alarm. I won't be able to get chapter and verse on it anyway.

Truman, your priming photos looked great. I don't know this stuff, but as long as you keep it dry, I'd have thought you'd be ok. My trick has been to hammerite all the heavier bits: chassis, differential etc.

priming etc comes later. The chassis will stay hammerited but will hav e waxoil coating.

[buzzy bee]

So you paint the chasis in hammerite and then waxoyle over the top? What kind of waxoye do you use?

If I was to paint a car panel now with some paint on and some bare metal, what primer and what paint should I use?

Cheers

Dave

P.S... Are you ok to paint with the new water based paints over cellulose?

[Uncle Joe]

buzzy, according to the info sheets, and from what I have already seen, then yes, its OK to use water based over cellulose, at least, the one that we used. just scuff it a bit first. But, if I was going to paint a car now, I would use self-etch primer on the bare metal, and refinish as usual.

I thought that this forum had rules against using such words as H****rite!

[Rivet_101]

HAMMERITE HAMMERITE HAMMERITE HAMMERITE

hehehehe


Mate, you use whatever works. The great thing about the stuff is that it stops rust in its tracks and leaves a tough coating. It is also relatively cheap and used on the underside, it does the job without being fussy about visible paintwork.

Plus, I was working out doors for the first two years, so it was perfect as long as it wasn't raining.

For the chassis, I'd swear by it.

so there!