Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Rick]

Hi

I've read varying opinions (mostly positive) about the POR products, has anyone got first hand experience of using them? would be interested to hear from you.

thanks

Rick

[Uncle Joe]

Rick,

I´ve just removed the vinyl roof from my Lincoln, and when I did so found the only-to-be-expected rust under. So I will be trying POR15 shortly. I´ll let you know my findings.

UJ

[Uncle Joe]

Rick,

Have a look at the following site: www.autorestorer.com

In their Paint and Body forum, they have a POR15 topic. Let me know what you think!

[Rick]

Hi UJ

Not made it to the POR topic yet, still looking at the photos of a PV Volvo restoration - always fancied a PV544 or 444, ideally the station wagon or van!! they did a pickup too didn't they?

cheers
Rick

[Uncle Joe]

Yes, I suspected that you would like that site.

As far as the PV´s go, I´m not sure if they did a pick up or not, I´ll check with someone who knows.

[Uncle Joe]

Rick, did you ever get to read the POR-15 topic?

I've got a bit of feedback now that might interest both yourself and others, but I would like to read some comments form everyone first, before I chip in with mine!

UJ

[admin]

Hi UJ, I did have a quick nosey but will need to have a proper read up on it!!!!

Rick

[Uncle Joe]

Okey koky Rick, post something when you have read it.

I'm also curious as to the way that people use other Rust Preventatives, ie preparation and results as well. Especially Hammerite, Eastwood and Miracle.

So I'm hoping to get plenty feedback from other forum members, no names mentioned!

[rustyreks]

Rick have heard conflicting stories with por 15 with rust tracking under the paint to the product breaking down due to uv unless it was painted over.Most rust paints that coat rust after wire brushing or sanding etc last for approx 5 years then need to be redone best option is to either nuetralise rust using a rust converter or an etch based primer with phosphoric acid and then paint.In the literature on por 15 they will recommend this anyway For doors or areas that are hard to access old engine oil is as good a rust treatment as any as will keep the moisture or salt from attacking the metal its cheap and effective and tip given by panel and spray painter who has had over 20 years experience in the business.If people are interested here is the link.Friends have used this in an old holden station wagon and rust free
2 years later
http://www.zealandpublishing.co.nz/freerustproof.html

[buzzy bee]

I have used hamerite in the past, not on my car but to prevent rust formining on a cropsrayer, and it seemed to do the job, but I hate using it, it seems hard to apply and leaves a less than perfect finish. I supose for some applications that is ok, as long as it prevents the rust!

I also have used the under body sealant, waxoyle and the clear stuff on my minis, but can't really say if they work or not as I haven't tried without for comparison. All I know mini go rusty in the end, I am not sure if the waxoyle is slowing it down or not, as like I say I have no comparison!

Old oil has also been used by my grandad and that seemed to work for him, and it is cheap, I think I may try to use old oil and grease on my sidewalk instead of waxoyle or maybe aswell as, as the sidewalk will probably be having welding done on it early next year, and maybe some bodywork to!

Cheers

Dave

[rustyreks]

Bit of interest Waxoyl is just turps light oil and wax easy to make and it it works well i am trialing it at the moment i have put some on some car parts left outside to see how they weather so far so good as a preventative it works fine no surface rust forming it may even help to soften the rust thats there so may help in its later removal.Although only early days a couple of weeks.Again with these sort of products they are not long term and need to replaced about every couple of years if put into a car i would suspect left outdoors this period will be much shorter If anyone has any home made recipes for removing rust i am keen to hear of them.

[buzzy bee]

Hi

So how exactly are you making "waxoyle", in what proportions?

Cheers

Dave

[rustyreks]

Dave and others here is the formula came across it on the net while searching for home remedys for rust control.

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine { 2.8 ltrs turps }
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax { 450 gms }
1 quart light machine oil { 1.1 ltrs }

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product

I did the conversion to ltrs as it was originally in imperial.I put the brew in a old fashioned jam making pan as it had high sides and weighed up some plain wax candles and mixed the turps and light oil together and gently simmered it on a gas camp cooker and stirred brew till the candles melted and then removed the wicks i did this outdoors safer.One needs to use common sense here as these items are flammable so take care. Let us know what you thinkof the mix when you try it out.

[Uncle Joe]

Thanks for that one, I'll give it a try sometime.

It may just be a good idea to melt the beeswax in what I call a "double boiler," which is what Aunty Joe uses to melt choclate in cooking. Should be safer!

[rustyreks]

Uncle Joe the boiler sounds a great idea will speed up the melting process of the wax plus much safer than heating all 3 together other ingredients would mix at room temperature that way.