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Waxoyling in the damp weather
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FIFTIES CRUISER
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 11:56 pm    Post subject: Waxoyling in the damp weather Reply with quote
I havent got round to waxloying the box sections and sills of my Zephyr yet. Would it be a bad idea to do this now as I might be trapping moisture between the Waxoyl and the metal or should I wait until the better weather next year?

Thanking you in advance.
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buzzy bee
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi

I am not sure on this one, but I thought waxoyle had a water dispersing agent in it to drive moisture out and prevent rust. I am sure someone will know for sure.

Cheers

Dave
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The trick to do here is spray in a rust converter before you use the waxoyl...which is yet another rust proofing product I personally wouldnt use...but what do I know? Laughing

UJ
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22472
Location: UK
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
would blasting in some compressed air prior to Waxoyl/Dinitrol/whatever-ing help at all, clear any dampness beforehand?

I'd still be inclined to spray some waxy preservative in there before the winter proper, rather than leaving it til next year

R
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Well, no not really. There is to much water in compressed air, unless you have a really good separator (drier) on the outlet.

Yes, I would do it before winter sets in, but not just by spraying waxoyl or similar....do it once, do it right!

UJ
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bob2
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
so tell us whats best UJ.
I use waxoyl a lot on my classics and also modern everyday car.
My dad's mini (now mine) has always had dinitrol and underseal almost every year from new and still sports all her original body, never had any surgery hehehe !!

what would you recommend as I like to prevent things rather than curing them!! Wink
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
As regards hidden cavities, I would clean them of as best I could, then spray in a rust converter, then use Dinitrol (my personal favourite) or Waxoyl (which I dont personally like).

UJ
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bob2
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
U think its best to put a rust converter first??
u have to let it dry thoroughly though before applying dinitrol!!
and if u r sure there's no rust in these cavities?
or for example the sills u cannot reach them and cannot make sure u have reached every corner with dinitrol or rust converter?
what would be best, dril some holes and spray through them ot just use the seat belt fixing hole and spray through it?
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, I do think it is best to use a rust converter first. As you say, it does have to dry thoroughly before using Dinitrol. the thing is though, its impossible to say if there is or isn't rust in the cavities, simplty because its usually impossible to see in there.

Some of the rustproofing suppliers provide diagrams that show where to drill the holes.

UJ
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bob2
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
sometimes I also use old engine oil in sills and doors, some say it is as good as dinitrol, what do you think about it?
I went banzai with waxoyl and used engine oil on my modern everyday car and till now no rust has showed up (when I say modern that is compared to my other cars cause its already 10 yrs old )
I also did the same to one of my minis which occassionally gets used when raining and the only rust which did show up is at the bottom edge of the bonnet but it had been repaired previously and its been repaired and sprayed in cellulose all over for 7 or 8 yrs now.
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I know some people that will argue against this, but a friend of mine in the UK has owned a 1974 Opel since 1975. Everytime he changes the oil, he sprays everything he can with the old oil. The car has never been garaged in its life, and always parked on dirt. Both the body and underbody is still perfect, but where he parks it is a mess... Very Happy

UJ
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bob2
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
so I'll continue using the same method then and swap to dinitrol instead of waxoyl, after all my other mini is also testament to this since it has never had any rust cutting!! Wink

After all this is very environmental friendly, re cycling the old oil as a rust preventer!! Laughing
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Old-Nail
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have never used Dinitrol UJ what are the properties it has that you find make it better than Waxoyl?
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
O-N, I've had some bad experiences with Waxoyl, thats all. For some reason, these have never occured with Dinitrol.

Dont get me wrong though, its as much personal preference as anything else...

UJ
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Penman
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi
Just thought I would share this with you.
It is from the Bristol Owners Club Forum.
Quote:
It's my experience that those who complain of Waxoyl not running freely to apply, nor penetrating have had it applied when the Can/Drum has been lying in an unheated space for some time. Some of its spirit content is bound to evaporate over time. Even if you've just bought it. Who knows how long it has been stored by the vendor.
It's in its nature to go waxy - hence the name.

I found that using the 1 gallon(if that is still apposite)can and the contents were not flowing free - get a bucket of boiling water and stand the Waxoyl can in it for a while with the lid released it soon returns to a near liquid state. If not get more hot water. Do not use naked flames nearby.
Check by stirring and using a metal rod as a dipstick try testing to see how much is sticking to the surface , or if it is running freely back into the can. If so? Then its ready to use.

Use a pressure spray with a hose and attachments to apply it in all those awkward corners boxed chanbers and tunnels.
The Plastic pump that used to be supplied was less that perfect. Use Nylon Plugs to seal and access holes drilled into closed compartments, so it cannot creep back into areas where you have Cloth or Fabric finishes.

It has a major Secondary benefit.

I does sink into the Timber Frame of the Type 400 to an extent that Dinitrol and other such products developed for more modern car constructions, ie. non timber framed vehicles - do not - Thus also helping to keep the timber frames rot free and flexible for longer.

This is not a value applicable to later models with alloy sub-frames, wheel arches and progressively less structural timberwork.

Finally it is now available I understand in a number of colours including Black which gives a hygroscopic finish which means it is also self healing where the odd stone penetrates its surface on the underside of Wings and Floor Pans, Chassis etc..

It's not the answer for every model Type but it is ideal for DIY and it has been proven effective over many years.

Just my two pennyworth,
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