Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Rick Site Admin

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22780 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:13 pm Post subject: Advice on garaging |
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Geoff got in touch today, asking this question about garaging. I said I'd post it on here so gather a few opinions together:
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I have a very low mileage 2cv in lovely nick which has never been out in the
rain and lives inside most of the year.
The garage has a bit of draught but I've often wondered whether I should put
a heater in during the winter.
I haven't done so before as I have an idea in the back of my mind that warm
air encourages rust.
If you have time to let me know what you think I'd be very grateful.
--- _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
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47p2

Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 2009 Location: Glasgow
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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You don't say what material the garage is built from.
Wooden buildings are regarded as the best material for classic car garages as the wood absorbs moisture and keeps is away from the metal. Brick, breezeblock and concrete garages tend to sweat and moisture can be a problem when the weather is damp outside.
Heating also plays a big part of the garage and whilst propane or paraffin heaters will bring the temperature up to a comfortable level quickly, they are very bad for causing condensation.
The best way to keep a car in excellent condition would be to use something like a Carcoon, or if that was not an option how about a garage radiator connected to your household boiler.
A bit of a draught is a good thing as moving air tends to keep the dampness at bay. _________________ ROVER
One of Britain's Fine Cars |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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I would have a tendency to agree with 47p2 on this, but replace the word draught with the phrase ''adequate ventilation.'' I have pointed this out before on a similar topic, but there are standards regarding the amount of ventilation needed...
If a garage radiator cant be connected to the household boiler for some reason, then something like an oil filled radiator turned low could be a good idea. Even something like an electric greenhouse heater.
Curiously, over here, heated garages are considered to promote corrosion.... |
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Job-Rated

Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 1010 Location: Sugarbeet County
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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Cold temperature outside + warm temperature inside = condensation.
Makes sense. _________________ Don't run your fingers over my truck & I won't run my truck over your fingers!
http://www.loosechange-band.co.uk/ |
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buzzy bee

Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3382 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
If you are going to spend the money to get heating, don't bother, spend it on a car bubble, like the carcoon thing mentioned above, they are under 500 pounds and running costs are normally under 2p a month, depending on which you go for, and they in my oppinion, will provide the best conditions.
Wooden sheds/garages however are not to my liking for one reason, my shed seems to coat all of my tools in a damp rusty coating.
A dehumidifier could also be a good route if you decide against the car bubble.
Cheers
Dave  |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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Theres a guy near me that has a very early PV in beautiful condition, and his idea of garaging is keep it outside under a tree....but make sure the rustproofing is done properly..... |
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theopenroad
Joined: 06 Dec 2007 Posts: 17 Location: Warwick
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:42 pm Post subject: Garaging |
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My vote goes for the dehumidifier option. A couple of years ago they were about £300 each but you now get them in Homebase (or similar) for less than £100.
They use much less electricity than a heater and give you supplies of distilled water, which is good for topping up batteries. It is also good for radiators as it saves the engine furring up inside.
If you get one with a tank, remember to empty it every couple of days. Alternatively you can connect a pipe to drain the water away.
Just be aware that if the temperature drops to about 4C they will ice up and stop working. Basically they are a compressor and evaporator from a fridge and draw the moisture from the air as it passes the cooling section. So you may as well turn it off if it is too old, but then there is little moisture in very cold air anyway.
I use them in my own garages to protect my collection of hire cars. _________________ Tony Merrygold
The Open Road - Classic Car Hire
www.theopenroad.co.uk |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 8:54 am Post subject: |
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I was just looking at an article on condensation in garages and warehouses. Dehumidifiers were mentioned in it. Apparently, to do things correctly, the dehumidifier should keep the temperature a few degrees higher in summer, and a few degrees lower in winter.
Has anyone else heard of this? |
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theopenroad
Joined: 06 Dec 2007 Posts: 17 Location: Warwick
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:48 am Post subject: Dehumidifers |
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I've not heard that comment. Certainly in the winter it helps if the garage is a couple of degrees warmer than outside otherwise the unit will freeze up.
The best type to buy is one that has a 'humidistat' as part of the machine. That way you can set it to a specific humidity and it will only come on if the humidity is too high. The problem is working out exactly the right level.
These are also more expensive to buy than one without a humidistat.
But they have the benefit that they are cheaper to run as they only run when necessary. So if the temperature drops to freezing, their shouldn't be much, if any moisture left in the air, and the machine won't come on anyway.
I hope that helps. _________________ Tony Merrygold
The Open Road - Classic Car Hire
www.theopenroad.co.uk |
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Old-Nail

Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 853
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:24 am Post subject: |
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One further thing to consider which will most likely already have been done is that given the car is a 2cv a THOROUGH waxoyl or dinitrol treatment is essential.
My own 2cv is used every day in all weathers and lives outside, these cars can literally rust overnight if not treated so the best protection is to the car itself.
After which I agree the absolute best option is to carcoon it. |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:09 am Post subject: |
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theopenroad: There are standards that will help to work out the correct level of humidity. Did you misread the fact that the temperature should be lower in winter, not higher? A higher temp. should promote condensation, therefore corrosion. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4232 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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A carcoon looks as if its a good buy, given the challenges in trying to maintain correct tempr & humidity ! |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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The only trouble with carcoons though is their price. IMHO, its way over the top....thats the reason I would never buy one... |
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Old-Nail

Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 853
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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They are expensive for what they are but if they offer excellent protection and the peace of mind of knowing that your classic is in a controlled environment then that cost has to be seen as an investment.
I have seen copies of the carcoon advertised somewhere on the net somewhere that came in a bit less expensive. |
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Uncle Joe Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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The way I figure things, a bit of British Inventiveness and a better way can be done for a lot less....  |
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