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Another paint question!
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Old-Nail



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 853

PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:44 pm    Post subject: Another paint question! Reply with quote

I've been thinking about the various types of paint available to the DIY sprayer and had convinced myself that cellulose, although outdated was the best bet.
Now faced with removing every scrap of paint from the car, etch priming, priming, and painting in many layers I'm not so sure.

2-pack is out - simple as that. I want to spend the money on paint rather than breathing equipment and the open door of the domestic garage would probably still allow fumes to poison the neighbours cat!

I then came to thinking... when I walk into Halfords of similar and buy a spray can I could envisage getting half decent results with that paint without all this bare metal malarky, so the question is what type of paint is in those touch up cans and can I buy that mixed up in bulk?

And if I did would it give a good finish when sprayed from a gun with thinners instead of the propellant of the can?
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aerosol paint is usually acrylic, at least from the bigger manufacturers such as DupliColor.

I cant really answer the rest of your questions though, not for the UK anyway.
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Job-Rated



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1010
Location: Sugarbeet County

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would guess that the paint in aerosols has to be pre-thinned in order for you to be able to use it in the first place.

I've always seen those cans as a 'temporary measure', myself.

Why not use Smoothrite with a brush? I know a guy who painted an 80's Thunderbird with a dark grey & it didn't look bad at all.
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Greeney in France



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 1173
Location: Limousin area of France

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or go for a coach enamel these were meant to be brush on and they do flow out or are just as easily flatted
I have got a couple of colours, Red and Green I think from "international"

HMG Synthetic (Alkyd) Coach Enamel
Turners Trade Paints Limited
Unit 14
Martindale Industrial Estate
Hawkes Green
Cannock
Staffs
WS11 7XN
Tel: 01543 577168
Have a whole range of paints and this site is quite informative too
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/index.html
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Dirty Habit



Joined: 26 Mar 2008
Posts: 398
Location: West Midlands, UK

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

O-N, While bare metal would be best. I think you have to look at your budget, the conditions you have to work in and your own experience. My old New York Checker had many old repairs with unknown materials being used. I also had limited experience and poor working conditions. I used etch primer where repairs had exposed bare metal. followed by a barrier coat of the whole car. This allowed me to use Cellulose as a finish on top of all those "unknown" paint types.
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course, it is possible to use Water Based paints, they are supposedly capable of going over any kind of paint. O-N, did I give you the link for the WBP's?
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Old-Nail



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 853

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No UJ I haven't had that link.

I think DH has hit the (old ) Nail Smile on the head with his comments above.

I have no respray experience but I'm not averse to learning.

I have a small, cramped domestic garage which is immediately next to my neighbours.

And little or no safety equipment. Crying or Very sad

The paint on the car looks original, but it has been restored at some point so could be synthetic enamel so I can't take a chance?

I brush painted my last 2cv and don't want to repeat the experience, I have bought a compressor and spray gun kit for the purpose.

My main concern is the isocyanates in modern paint, it's no coincidence that it sounds a similar word to 'cyanide'...it is a relative of it! It would be nice if an isocyanate free paint were developed because I do like the finish of 2-K paint regardless of the accusations levelled at it for being 'over shiny'.



The body shell is stripped out and ready to go off to the welders now, so it sound like I'm going to end up with a shell similar to what DH had to work with...maybe a barrier coat is the answer then?
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here it is then. This is the paint that we imported some of a while ago. Looked so good on the car!

http://www.autoaircolors.com/technical/technical_frames.html

O-N, let me know what you think.

Something else to think about. If you have ever watched some Car TV programmes, such as Overhaulin' (thats the one with AJ) you will have noticed that when they media blast the paint off the body, it always holds surprises as to what is underneath, even on relatively nice appearing cars.
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Old-Nail



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 853

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see what you're saying with the surprises UJ, 'luckily' the design of a 2cv leaves very little room for 'additional' bits of botching.

The steel is so thin and the design so simple that apart from the few bits of body filler that I found instantly when stripping the car out there really is no where to hide.

One example of where the extreme simplicity of build has a benefit! Very Happy
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was surprised at the simplicity when I saw your photos. For some reason. I dont remember the one that my brother had being so simple.

All this is tempting me to buy one! 4WD, naturally! I think that I had better lie down now! Laughing

O-N, when I do the Lincoln, do you want to come over? We Lancastrians must stick together, you know!
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Old-Nail



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 853

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that offer UJ I'd certainly like to see some work done properly first hand! Obviously it depends on our finding a mutually convenient time but in principle sure.

I'll add some new pics to the thread I started regarding the 2cv as it's progressed a little since then.
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case, theres only one question to ask. How much beer can you put in a 2CV? Or do you have anything bigger? Laughing Laughing
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Old-Nail



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 853

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uncle Joe wrote:
In that case, theres only one question to ask. How much beer can you put in a 2CV? Or do you have anything bigger? Laughing Laughing


Well maybe this will give you a clue Very Happy



Unless you want it really full! Laughing

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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

O-N, with regards to rust, have you considered using a wipe on galvaniser on the body before you spray it?
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Old-Nail



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 853

PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still trying to get my head round the multitude of different products and rules of application for those products!

At this stage I have accepted that I have to go bare metal or barrier primer.
With the wings, bonnet and boot lid I'll go bare metal as it's not such a chore, but the bodyshell having endless amounts of nooks and crannies will have to be barrier.

I'm not aware of many products or processes that are available today, the one you mention belongs to that category!
I'm still having trouble understanding why I can't bulk buy the single pack alkyd or acrylic paint that is used in aerosols, and put it through my gun?
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