Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[bob2]

I am in the process of painting the interior of my hunter and was thinking about what to use!!
I have already sanded down the luggage boot interior and given 2 coats of red oxide, the problem lies now. I will be painting it in a solid 2 pack paint, i.e. mix the colour with hardner and I will add some thinner to thin the paint so that it does not leave too much orange peel, bear in mind I will be doing this with a roller cause I dont have a compressor or gun at hand!!!

Will the hardner paint react with the red oxide, is there something I can do such as a stabilizing paint or something?

[Greeney in France]

yes I am afraid you will need a barrier primer
There are lots of different types of red oxide paint but its best to be safe than sorry
International paints do a very good barrier paint called Primacon but you will have to find an international supplier.
Other than that go to a car paint supplier and explain what you need.
Although I have a good air system now I know of people whom have used the electronic spray systems sold in DIY shops They are not expensive and with a decent mask, (which you should have anyway even rollering) should be a reasonable combination for a reasonable finish
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[ukdave2002]

Just try a sample of the paint first to see if it reacts, I have never had a problem with 2 pack on red oxide, also as you are not spraying I would not use the hardner, just thin it down.

Dave

[bob2]

but UK would it be still as strong if I didnt use the hardner?

and I think it would take more to dry too!!

[ukdave2002]

The hardner just accelerates the proccess, I painted some bits last weekend in 2K with no accelerator, they were touch dry within an hour, yes it will take longer to fully set, but this will be an advantage if you are not spraying as the paint will have longer to flow.



Dave

[Old-Nail]

That's unusual, I had it in mind that 2k cured by the chemical reaction of the hardener rather than air drying.

[Uncle Joe]

It does cure by chemical reaction, its an epoxy. So now I'm all confused...

[Greeney in France]

Its not strictly an epoxy it is available as a polyurethane and acrylic
The "hardener" is not just a hardener it is an integral part of the process
Even with the hardener it takes a good week or so to harden off completely with an oven obviously quicker but whos got one?
The hardener also adds end hardness and durability making it impervious to acid, petrol, diesel, etc etc and impact resistance as it allows a certain elasticity

Without the additive it will never be as good and will scratch and mark easily
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[Greeney in France]

I forgot to add you can get iso free 2packs but the colours are limited
As its for commercial use like buildings etc
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[ukdave2002]

Guys

Re not using hardner ,try it for your selfs, I had the tip from a mate who owns a commercial vehicle body shop, I have no idea what the chemical ins and outs are, what I can tell you from expirience is that its just as glossy just as hard and you can cut runs in about 10 days (which when I paint I allways have to do )

[bob2]

the only time I have not mixed hardner is when I painted (with a brush) a pair of drums and calipers in the same body colour and yes it dried within a couple of hours as UK says but then I had a small repair in the engine bay where paint had flaked off because of hydraulic brake fluid and I got a can filled with some of the paint I had left over for a perfect match and it never dried, left 2 or three days and had to take it off again and I was really p***ed off cause it was something which took me a week of playing around to get the best finish I could.

So realy cant understand whether it needs hardner or not!!!

I'll try some on an unseen spot first as UKD suggested but in any case whats the ratio of mixing the paint with hardner and thinner?

Yesterday I also had a problem when spraying some primer/filler, when it was setting in and drying it started cracking!!! any ideas why???

[ukdave2002]

years ago a garage splilt brake fluid on the wing of my dads austin 1300, they offered to repaint it, which they did, (presume in Cellulose 1970's ?) about a week later the paint went funny where the fluid had been split, they ended up painting the wing 3 times before the paint adheared properly!

Regards your primer filler, sounds as if its either a reaction with existing paint or its going on too thick?

Dave

[bob2]

well i was thinking about having got it on too thick actually so will have to clean it and do it again

well I do not think it was a problem with the brake fluid as I washed the surface well, degreased it with a degreaser and thinner and then applied the primer to which nothing happened and it was touch dry after a couple of hours, the actual problem was in the paint used (topcoat) which I supposed happened because it was not mixed with any hardner and did not dry not even after 3 days !!

[Uncle Joe]

bob2, it can be as UK says, because its put on too thick, but the most likely cause is contamination of some kind.

I've known cases where even when a car has been taken back to bare metal, a fingerprint has caused similar problems! This is the reason I always tell people. Get it back to bare metal, clean it of with acetone, and DONT TOUCH IT AFTERWARDS!

[bob2]

slight question, what is acetone??
would it be the same if i used thinner for cleaning?