Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[dalbuie]

..but they have still left the illusion of originality. Seeing a set of shiny disk brakes on a pre war car shatters the illusion.

It is all a matter of taste, thankfully we're not all the same and there's room for everyone, and some healthy debate.

On another point of debate I'd rather see a well used classic with a few bumps and scratches than a concours classic that is taken of the back of a transporter and placed onto the show ground or museum.

[dalbuie]

[peter scott]

I've PMed you.
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Uncle Joe]

Restoring the Goggo gives me a strange problem regarding originality. It left the factory in primer, and was painted by the dealers in VW colours...So to be totally correct, it should just be primered when restored. Painted in original colours, it would be the wrong shades...

Where does that leave me in this?

[peter scott]

Were all Goggos painted by the dealers?

If, for whatever reason, painting at the dealer's was a deliberate action in the production process then I can't see any problem in you replicating it.

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[dalbuie]

To make the decision that pleases you.

There is a full range of options from a near 100% original restore searching out the same formula of oil and mix paints to painting it pink, lowering it and putting in a new Hemi crate engine

I'd certainly go for as close as I could to the first option taking into account budget, parts availability and final use of the car.

[Uncle Joe]

No, just some of them were sent out in primer. I had actually promised to keep the paint original as part of the deal, but when I found out it was a VW colour, became unsure...

It will be kept relatively original, but as I intend using it as a DD, some things will be changed, such as converting the headlights to HID. Originals arent available.

It has been suggested to me that I replace the twin carbs with the Solex from a '60 on, due to (and I quote) ''the excessive petrol consumption of the twin Bings'' apparently, I cant expect more than 55mpg or so....Methinks this is an example of german humour!

[52classic]

IMHO there's nothing wrong with period mods. It is fun to present, say a 50's car as it would have looked during the 60's.

These things help to add a lot of interest at shows and lets the car act as a sort of tableau to the era being represented.

When did you last see a set of Dunlop D1 wheels for example? Lovely on a Mini or an 1100.

I'd consider Spridget discs on a Moggy to be OK too. Modern mods can spoil the whole point of a classic though but unless your car is ulta rare then it's your choice.

[The goodlife]

I have read all your responses with great interest and reckon that it all depends on individual circumstances. My husband has a 1965 TR4A which was "original". However, in recent years, he decided to improve various aspects. Alterations were always thoroughly researched beforehand in order to find the best (sympathetic) way to proceed. I am glad he upgraded the braking system - which proved its worth this year in Corsica! Also, the improved cooling system enabled us to keep going when others "boiled over". For added comfort she now has TR6 seats and full harness. She is still a beautiful car; a challenge and a pleasure to drive. (Original parts are stored away, just in case we ever sell the car to someone who wants to change her back! ) We have no regrets!


The Goodlife

[pigtin]

Oh dear! It seems I may be at odds with a lot of you. While I love the feel and appearance of an old car, driving it is really the experience I seek. I cannot understand anyone having a totally original and immaculate car in their garage and only use it a few times a year—often because they do not feel confident driving it under modern conditions. Very often they don’t dare let it out of their sight for fear someone may put fingerprints on it. It’s bad enough when I buy a new car and wouldn’t want the same anxieties with my pleasure vehicles.
My 10/4 was rebuilt in 1985 and I made a point of converting it to 12v using a large 12v dynamo of the period. It was to be our second car with both my wife and myself using it, and yes! I’ve heard all the guff about 6v systems being adequate in their day. And I remember, as a child and into my twenties laying in bed listening to the laboured whirring of starters, and then inevitable clank of handles, on the first cold morning of the year, as my neighbours sweated and cursed over 6v Fords etc’.
There were no indicators on the 10/4 and I enjoyed giving hand signals for a while until some clown took a turning left signal to mean he could turn across in front of me. I had 25bhp, not a lot, but seemed adequate for a while until needing to tow a folding caravan. I fitted a downdraught carb’ and manifold from a later model.
The memsahib and myself enjoyed some 40k miles in the beast, never a flat battery or starting problem. If you look under the bonnet you’ll see all sorts of non-standard odds and ends. I wouldn’t have it any other way. Perhaps it’s just me. But I never remember anyone driving a totally original car in the 50s, they’d all fit the latest gadgets and improvements.

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Due to the onset of my mid eighties I'm no longer sprightly and rarely seen in my Austin special. I have written a book though. https://amzn.eu/d/7rwRRqL

[Keith D]

This is one of the most interesting and controversial discussions one can have regarding old cars.
Every single opinion has merit, but I have to agree with the earlier statement that it depends on what you intend using the machine for.
I enjoy originality on my "older" cars. I would never change voltage for instance. When restoring my Chrysler I actually changed it back to 6v. Provided the electrics and carby are kept in good condition it starts the first time I step on the button. However, it does not get anywhere near as cold in winter in Perth as you get it in the UK. My older cars are as original as I could make them, something like 95%. These cars are used on Club runs only. (My cars get displayed at Shows only because the Clubs like to put on a big display. Personally, I hate the great unwashed climbing all over them with their snotty nosed offspring getting thrust inside behind the wheel for photographs!)
Conversly, my A40 was used for many years as my daily driver (I've owned it since 1972 and it has never been unlicenced) and it is still used for many very long distance country runs. Because of this, back in the early seventies I modified the car by fitting a BMC 1622cc series B motor, an A70 diff and A70 brakes. The car body is unaltered in any way and it takes an Austin expert to notice the different engine. (Carby, air cleaner, full flow oil filter etc) This car can now cruise safely on our long, open and empty country roads comfortably at between 60 and 70 mph all day long.
Incidently, I still run on standard cross ply tyres; I have an aversion to fitting radials onto a suspension that was designed for Xplys!
Many cars sold in Australia were unsuitable for local conditions. For example, I owned a 3.4 Mk 2 Jag in the late sixties when I lived in Melbourne. I came to the conclusion that this vehicle was the most efficient way of boiling water known to mankind. The car was only a couple of years old and in as-new condition. Yet I spent an arm and a leg on it with the Jaguar dealership trying to get it to run in summer rush hour traffic without boiling. After about a year trying everything, I sold it and laughed as it drove away! Many people in Oz fit Ford Falcon or Holden motors in Jags if they are going to use them as daily drivers, and I know why!!!

Regards - Keith D

[peter scott]

Hi Keith,

It probably wasn't available when you were running your Jag but apart from higher efficiency radiator cores a nice unobtrusive way of improving cooling efficiency is to use a wetting agent or other form of coolant.
http://www.evanscooling.com/main25.htm

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Phil - Nottingham]

As to originality if you want a museum piece to look at and possible drive on private roads then go-ahead. Its your car and your money

If you want to drive it on modern roads it has to be adapted to make it safe to drive not just for yourself and family but other road users. who may not (or will) understand that some older cars do not drive like some modern ones.

This means decent brakes and tyres but also signalling equipment like brake lights and indicators. Also as teh owner driver you have to be confident is driving the car as it was designed to be and keep up with the traffic flows

My 1938 Rover 16 still has its trafficators and they work but I have converted the front side lights and rear reversing lights to orange bulbed flashers which operate simultaneosly from the same column switch. The headlamps (double dip) now have pilot bulbs as well.

I have also fitted a discrete (and virtually invisible to it lights up) high level led brake light just in case. hazrds are also fiited to hidden but handy switch.

As only my wife an I travel in it we have not fitted safety belts as the centre B/C post is inadequate to mount the top fitting without structural strenghtening which would be apparent (to running board Rover freaks anyway) The steering box with fixed rigid column is mounted right on the front chassis cross member just under the radiator so aeven a mdest front end shunt would propel the cast iron steering wheel centre straight to the drivers chest - I am prepared to risk this and third parties are not going to be injured.

Looking at old cracked tyres, especially cross plies (but even modern radials are showing this now), at car rallies they look to be death traps and these cars should be clamped if they try to leave the field!

I have come across many hostile modern cars owners particularly in the Esat Midlands who are just looking to get our old bangers off the roads and we should not give them ammunition with persisting in driving unmodified original cars when safety is compromised.

The average classic car punter would not even notice many improvements and only model specific anoraks (I am one probably) would pick on non-original parts but I would not mind as long as they are not being held out as original and then I WOULD point them out

Also remember since the 1930's but especailly in the 1960's a lot of cars drivers "customised" their cars with accessory add ons and even the new reflective plates which were optional anyway on new and old cars from 1967
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[dalbuie]

[clan chieftain]

I have a set of Weller wheels on the marina, not for show but because it handles better. I still have its own wheels ,hub caps and wheel trims that rattle like a tambourine
Basically its just something you want to drive that you drove 35 years ago.
I think its called re living your youth.
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The Clan Chieftain