Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[buzzy bee]

Hi

i have been having a discusion today wheter my truck should be 12V or 6V, with good and bad points for both. Before I give my oppinions, and points, what are all of yours. I don't want to give mine yet to cloud yours.

Cheers and value as many oppinions as posible!

Dave

[Rick]

It was designed for 6 volts, so as long as you have good clean connections and hefty battery leads (to lessen the chance of voltage drop) it should work aok. Millions (well, lots) of original Model Ys, Pops, E83Ws and Prefects are testimony to the fact that it works ok on 6v if the rest of the system is up to scratch.

I'm not saying this just to keep it original, I just think that with everything set up properly, 6v should work fine. If it doesn't, then something is wrong and simply installing 12v parts isn't fixing the core problem, just masking it with the extra urrrrge on offer.

R
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[ukdave2002]

The advantage with 12v over 6v is that for the same "power" cables only have to be half the size, this also applies to the wire in armature & field winding in motors, or to put it another way a cable or connector will have double the volt drop in a 6v system over a 12v on load.

This will really show up on high loads ie starter motors, a poor connection or inadequate cable that drops 1.5v in a 12v system, would drop 3v in a 6v system, so the 12v system looses about 12% the 6v around 50% for the same fault.

Battery cable is thicker for 6v systems, when folk restore they often use too thin a cable, or use battery lugs which wont take the thicker cable so thin the thicker cable down, this is not a good recipie for long term reliablity!. The same applies to all the lighting cables, they need to be thicker for 6 v, the good news is that you can now get modern thinwall cable with cloth braid cover, so what looks the same thickness as original has a much higer capacity.

Personally I would stick to 6v and just do it right, ....and remember on 6v machines you nearly allways have a starting handle

[Old-Nail]

I remember the 6v headlights on my 103e Pop didn't really cut the mustard.

The light cast from them didn't do very much to light up the road ahead, in fact it wasn't 'cast' at all but seemed to crawl to the edge of the lamp and then fall out onto the floor

Lighting is the only concession that I make to modernity in my classics, I like to see and be seen and any mod that would allow me to fit extra bright lights front and rear is a good one for me if the vehicle is to be used on the road regularly.

[ukdave2002]

You are right Old Nail, to achieve the "brightness" to compete with modern cars with a 60W main beam would require some 20amps of total headlamp current with a 6v system! Quite possible wiring wise but would test the dynamo!

I have driven the 6v Morris 8 in the dark a few times, but only short distances and on roads I knew, it would not have been much fun at all for any kind of serious night driving.
You can get 6v halogen which will improve the situation, but for a serious everyday car with winter night driving I would probably make the 12v move, at the end of the day it’s easily reversible.

Another consideration are the bubs in your Ford “focused” or does it use the “pre-focus” bulbs? If its 7” lamps you can of course fit any modern replacement reflector with 6 or 12 v bulbs

Dave

[Greg]

[quote="Old-Nail"]I remember the 6v headlights on my 103e Pop didn't really cut the mustard.

The light cast from them didn't do very much to light up the road ahead, in fact it wasn't 'cast' at all but seemed to crawl to the edge of the lamp and then fall out onto the floor

I must admit the light you get shinning into the footwell with light from the rear of the Speedo etc. seems to be brighter than that out on the Road!!
But I can agree with both opinions, I suppose it depends on the individual.
My Pop is still standard 6v and works very well, so I am quite happy to leave it that way. The lighting could be an issue, but again if I do night-driving it's not usually very far from home, (If you accideltly leave the full-Beam on no-one notices ).
Greg

[Uncle Joe]

For me, the answer would be without doubt to go to 12 Volts. If only for practical reasons. Starting will be easier, as will getting hold of bulbs. Better lighting is another benefit.

You can still keep the starting handle as well...

[Old-Nail]

Greg: "I must admit the light you get shinning into the footwell with light from the rear of the Speedo etc. seems to be brighter than that out on the Road!! "

My Pop had the optional shelf under the dash so the speedo light came in handy for finding my Worthers originals at night!

[Uncle Joe]

Really, O-N, you dissappoint me! Choosing german sweets when you live close enough to Wigan to buy Mintballs!

[pigtin]

In the late 60s I had a type 3 VW Karmann Ghia, as I was using this for travelling around the country on business the 6v headlights were a pain but didn't cause any accidents. What got it eventually were the dim stoplights in bright sunlight... no excuse for the guy who ran into the back of me of course. But I couldn't help feeling sorry for him.

Don.

[pigtin]

Quote:Really, O-N, you dissappoint me! Choosing german sweets when you live close enough to Wigan to buy Mintballs!

Do you remember their advert with the little boys grandfather giving him
'his wonderful Werthers?' and they didn't even speak with an accent.

Having said that... I love the things myself.

Don.

[buzzy bee]

Hi

Just to ask the question, does anyone have, or know where to look or go to buy a 6V orange flashing beacon, I would like one on the Ford eventually, as it has a garage signwritten on it, and have had the old owner telling me stories of towing people, think a beacon would fit nicely!

Cheers

Dave

[Penman]

If you can't get a 6v one, (Did they actually use them back in 6v days?)

Could you fit a 6v motor inside a 12v beacon body?

[buzzy bee]

Hi

I was wondering this, I am sure you should be able to get one, as my truck was made in '56, and would have been expected to do at least 10 years work, so I am sure beacons were around in the mid to late 60's, so they must have produced 6 volt ones, don't you think?

On the other hand I can't for the life of me find one!

As you all know I am not very hot on electrical stuff, but if anyone knows where to get 6V motors and fancies either having a go at it, or explain how I should do it, I will be grateful, and I would buy one of whoever has one, if it is not extortionate!

I have seen nice chrome mounted ones on old commercials, that is the type I am after!

Cheers

Dave

Cheers

Dave

[PAUL BEAUMONT]

I am a bit of a purist and so my first thought is that if it was 6v originally it is nice to keep it that way. However much of the technical stuff that Dave mentions is very valid, so I guess it depends what you are going to do with the vehicle. I only really use my lights to satisfy the MOT man and always explain that they are low so that the light will reach the road!!
Most 6v sevice parts are fairly available (try a motor bike shop for bulbs if you are stuck) but batteries are a rip off. Half of an MGB pair is not really big enough in terms of Amp-hours so you tend to end up being screwed.
All that said, if the vehicle has one of those confounded vacuum wiper motors I'd change that before I uprated to 12V
AND... there is not much to a beacon really and I am sure that you can change the motor, but can you get a 6v bulb for the thing? that I am not so sure of - especially the late ones with the halogen bulb.
My company deals with several beacon makers so if there's a real demand let me know and I will enquire for you.