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Riley not charging
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euronerd



Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 16
Location: Yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:17 am    Post subject: Riley not charging Reply with quote

Could anybody offer any advice on this please? When I start up, the ignition light stays on. When I close the cut out contacts by hand the light goes out. Charging is intermittent but the light stays off as long as the engine is running. The first symptom was that the ignition light stayed on for a few minutes after starting, then flickered and finally went out, and the charging rate increased very gradually regardless of engine speed. The electrical system is Rotax with a three-brush dynamo and no regulator. The wiring is sound.
Thanks in advance.

Geoff.
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoff,

The ignition light get it's return (earth) thru' the armature and by closing the cut-out points manually you are only fooling yourself. If there is insufficient votage generated it can't close the points. The regulation such as it is, is provided by the thin 3rd brush. This picks up a voltage and applies it to the field coils. The problem with this design is it will provide whatever charge it is set for regardless of demand. The problem sounds like bad brushes. If it has been working in the past then these would be the first things to check.

Art
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bob2



Joined: 06 Dec 2007
Posts: 1727
Location: Malta

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought this had something to do with buzzy(Dave) Bee not sleeping well, hence not charging!! Very Happy
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1879
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First thing I would look for is solder thrown off the commutator segments where the windings connect. Then perhaps, if the brushes are free in their guides.
Sometimes you can solder the windings back on to the segments, I used to have to do it regularly on my first car, a 33 Standard big 9. It's as well to find what is causing the overload... perhaps the third brush is set to maximum. Surprised

Be careful operating the cutout by hand... the battery may try to drive the dynamo like a motor.
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Geoff, looking at my lucas dynamo it has brushes screwed to spring loaded arms. With a long matchstick or simillar gently push against each cable to make sure they really are connected and you can move the brushes to make sure they are not stuck. Also is your fan belt OK?
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euronerd



Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 16
Location: Yorkshire

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you gents. Looks like the brushes are the prime suspect. The third brush is set about right - 15A max. Brushes were new about a year ago, when the dynamo was fully checked, but newly manufactured 'spec' items are not always a happy experience. Nic, the Rotax dynamo sounds similar to the Lucas and the brushes were free. Can't be the belt because there isn't one.

Geoff.
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How wonderful not to have a belt.
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euronerd



Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 16
Location: Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing
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