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Engine does not rev.
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Austin-sixteen-Cornwall



Joined: 01 May 2009
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 8:24 pm    Post subject: Engine does not rev. Reply with quote

Hi everybody - I have just acquired a1931 Austin Sixteen/Six Burnham saloon named Gemima. The engine starts OK (usually 1st or 2nd try) and it idles OK but when I try to blip the accelerator it coughs and splutters and the revs do not increase and there is no power. Mechanically the engine was stripped last year and a new piston fitted and the bore sleeved and new valve seats and valves fitted for running on unleaded. The plugs look rather black and sooty. Any ideas on resolving this would be very welcome. Thanks
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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2002
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like fuel starvation, have you tried pulling out the choke and revving it?
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21127
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes if the ignition points close up, it can cause problems like that.

Also, if it hasn't run for some time, the fuel may have gone off.

Rick
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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Austin-sixteen-Cornwall



Joined: 01 May 2009
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for quick reply!
Yes - I was using different cominations of choke and accelerator with the same results.
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Austin-sixteen-Cornwall



Joined: 01 May 2009
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The petrol is OK - The car was running OK up till last week but I will check the points tomorrow.
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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2002
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also worth checking the fuel pump is working under load. The jet on the carb float is another thing to check.
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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 1254
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check points gap and dizzy earthing. Too wide a gap will reduce spark intensity at higher revs. Sam eeffect can becaused by faulty coil or condensor and ignition too far retarded

However sooty plugs indicate too rich a mixture, assuming its not a SU carb, air bleed jets can become blocked after standing
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Rusty



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 186
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember working on a post war large Austin about 35 years ago, it came in with simmilar symptons.
Turned out to be a blocked muffler.

Likelyhood of this "VERY" low but sometimes if you cant find anything else, you never know !!
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
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Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was fiddling with the A40 pickup yesterday, and remembered that I had a similar problem a couple of weeks back, and that was caused by a duff condenser (as Phil's also suggested). It wouldn't rev at all, yet (touch wood) it runs well now.

Rick
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6209
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were blocked carburettor jets you could check by simply pouring a little petrol down the air intake whilst blipping the thottle.

Peter
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1882
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem on my 10/4 twice. Both times it turned out to be the rotor arm, one of them a fairly new one. It's almost impossible to see when one has broken down electrically.

Don.
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Austin-sixteen-Cornwall



Joined: 01 May 2009
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your suggestions and apologies for delay in replying ( Too busy trying to repair the car). Progress? so far – Carb. -Cleaned out every orifice I can find without any improvement. Timing – Fiddling with it made the engine run better but still not right. Changed plugs –Not much improvement.
Next I will change the HT leads, Distributor cap & Rotor arm ( when I can find a source for these items- any suggestions gratefully received).
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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Distributor Doctor may well have the parts if has a Lucas dizzy - have you tried a substitute coil and is yours connected correctly
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1035
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For Lucas parts check under Restoration - Advice - Electrical then ROTOR ARMS. This will give you a link to a supplier. Good luck and my bet is condenser.
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Austin-sixteen-Cornwall



Joined: 01 May 2009
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sucess at last!!!!!!! I have finally resolved my problems - It turned out to be a leak in the inlet manifold gasket. The manifolds are attached using 5/16 BSF brass nuts which when tightened started to strip. I have replaced these with new steel nuts and solved the problem. At some stage I may change them for brass ones made in my lathe. I have not yet been able to locate distributor cap & rotor arm but will keep tryng.
A further cause for celibration is that she had her MOT today and will pass after a few minor corrections.
Thanks to all for all the help and advice.
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