Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Truman\'s]

OK, so I've stripped some tinwear today (engine compartment cowlings) Now back to bare metal, and very little, if any rust. What do I treat it with? I have acid etch #8, or bonds red anti rust primers... are they for the job? Appreciate any advice... sorry it's the Primer post that's made me uncertain!

Mike

[admin]

I'm sure Uncle Joe will have some tips to impart, if you ask him nicely

the whole subject of painting interests me (as a non-painter) greatly, its something I want to get into next year if possible. I've got a decent compressor for starters. I've got a few other questions, but I'll pop them in the Restoration category rather than distract this great thread about Truman's Morris

Rick.

[Uncle Joe]

Well, nobody´s asked me nicely yet...but...

Before I answer this, I want to ask a couple of questions. When you say "little or no rust" does that mean that there are small amounts of rust somewhere? If there is, can it be removed by media blasting? How did you remove the paint?

[Truman\'s]

Hey Joe,
Cheers for replying... what I meant by that was it was only surface rust, and I removed the old paint by means of a chemical stripper, followed by a wire brush attachment, followed by paraffin to remove the nitromors, then rubbing over to get the last of any paint off...

any good? or totally wrong? I've done one component so far...

Ta

Mike

[Uncle Joe]

No, it sounds OK to me. The reason I asked how you removed the paint is because I suspected the use of paint stripper. The important thing is that you make sure that you carefully neutralise the surface immediately afterwards. The one thing that you are going to have to be careful of now is Flash Rust.

I did mention under one of the other topics how I have been refinishing cars for the past few years, but at present I am investigating another method, which uses a wipe on galvanising agent.

Then, of course, I got sidetracked with Water Based Paints (WBP from now on!)

I´m looking forward to Rick starting the painting thread he mentioned. That is going to be really interesting!

Incidentally, 46GPH. Is that the amount of beer the driver used to drink on his round?

[Truman\'s]

Thanks Joe - it was a lady driver would you believe.... teetotaller!

When you say neutralize.... by what and what method?

Mike

[Uncle Joe]

It depends which type of Nitromors you have used, as there are quite a few nowadays. Some types use White Spirits, the others water. It usually says on the container, or at least gives you a clue!

If its one of the water types, dont worry about it rusting after, ´cos it doesn´t! Or at least, the car I stripped 6 months ago hasn´t yet!

[Truman\'s]

Well thanks for that advice Joe, I seem to be doing ok so far...

Anyway, here's another update... I've more or less completed the instrument panel and gauges, leaving me the ignition/light switch to locate. I basically stripped it, primed, then sprayed with wrinkle finish black paint, as original...

As for the gauges, they were re-calibrated, chromed etc.. by a firm in Tunbridge Wells.

Mike


[/img]

[Uncle Joe]

They do look nice! Is it only Smiths gauges that the company do, or do they do other makes of instruments as well?

What did you think about the Wipe on Galvaniser that I mentioned in a previous post?

[Truman\'s]

No they do all makes mate... As you can see, I have Smiths, Lucas and Tomey gauges... neat work, very slow though!

I thought the galvanising was an interesting idea, but I'm not sure I'm going to be doing it, partly down to my facilities to do the work in, and partly I hope my prepping will be good enough using traditional methods!

Cheers Joe

Mike

[Uncle Joe]

I dont think that you will have any problems with facilities. I have the Info sheet in front of me, and that indicates that it should be wiped on with a rag. Which makes it interesting to say the least.

The only real question that I want an answer to is does it work? The only people that can answer that are the ones that have used it, and I've not been able to find any as yet.

Another thought that I have been having lately is the use of rust killing primers.

I'll be respraying a car myself soon, so I would hope that someone who reads this can shed some light on the subject!

The gauge that I mentioned is the speedo in my 300. It doesn't go above 55mph!

[buzzy bee]

Probably not much to do with the topic, so sorry in advance! I have been trying to find out if the following primers differ; grey and red oxide. I say this because I know people that use either one but won't touch the other with a barge pole!

Any ideas?

Cheers

Dave

[Uncle Joe]

Never use either, so I cant really help. I would have thought though that red oxide was lead based, and grey oxide zinc based.

One thing that I do know is that some idiot has coated the roof of my Lincoln with red oxide, in an attempt to stop rust appearing under the vinyl roof, and a) it hasn't, and b) its a ****** to remove!

[Truman\'s]

Gents need some assistance please...

I'm now at a point where I am about to embark on prepping and painting the interior. I read here and there all the different processes I am to go through to do this, but they seem to be at odds.

I have purchased my Tekaloid already, so that tells you all I'm hand-painting inside.

There are various small rust spots, along with the join of the new panels. My questions are:

1: Do I de-grease first, then simply rub down and fill where necessary, prime then paint? Or

2: Use paint-stripper, take the lot off... and then what? That is where I am stuck. I want to go back to metal, but I'm wondering is it worth it? Could someone please give me a fairly complete process to go through please, including how to treat the rust spots in the best way?

Thanks in advance!

Here's two photos...

Mike


[/img]

[Truman\'s]

And in the meantime, here's two more pictures of Truman's, taken today.

Mike