Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

Fluffle-Valve · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:35 pm Post subject: Dam Points

The Old Series III Land Rover has been running a bit rough just lately and because the Carb used to leak from the butterfly and throttle shaft, I changed the carb for a new, but old stock one.
It still ran **** under load, but was great on tick-over. Neutral

So I headed for the dizzy and this is what I found. Shocked

After fitting new points and with it having a new carb, it now actually ticks over proper first thing in the morning on choke and has been running fine... :fingerscrossed:
_________________

Series 3 1972 LWB Truck Cab Pick Up. My daily drive.

Phil - Nottingham · Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1252 Location: Nottingham

Faulty condensor or bad earth on baseplate will cause this or just loose nut or condenosr fixing screw
_________________
Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

Fluffle-Valve · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:17 pm Post subject:

Keith D · Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 12:37 pm Post subject:

I had this exact problem occur on my Austin A40 when a local garage sold me a brand new 12 volt coil that turned out to be a 7 volt coil designed to be used in series with a starting resistor as on newer cars!
My points melted the very next day!

Keith

Fluffle-Valve · Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 8:28 pm Post subject:

Up Date on the Dam Points.

Change the points and things seemed to be fine for a while. It would sort of cough and splutter a bit and it seemed to be a bit sluggish. Anyway, it got worse and so I investigated the points again and the settings on the carb. Still getting a real good tick over, but it didn't want to accelerate very well. Seemed to be holding back all the time..
So checked for a good spark at each plug, even did a compression test and all cylinders was at around 160 to 170psi ... so happy with that. Then kept on checking the timing, Happy with that... Now I'm thinking it could be the coil, so I buy a new one... Happy with that, but it still won't pull under load, but ticks over great? Funny I thought, what the hell is going on here then? So now I fit a brand new dizzy with electronic gubbins and do away with the point’s altogether. Still running rubbish. I beginning to think that the timing chain tensioner was shot and the chain was slack, but I thought, I'll go and put the old Carb back on and see how it runs, as it used to run with it on before, although it leaked a bit. So while taking the new carb off, pulled the vacuum advance rubber pipe off and it came away from the metal pipe it was fitted to.......... hey now I thought, was this actually attached properly or not? If it wasn't, it would explain the reason for not wanting to accelerate and the lumpiness while driving. So the new carb went back on and I fitted the vacuum pipe and checked it was attached proper at both ends...

Took her out for a run and she's running as sweet as a nut. But then I'm not surprised, as she now has a new carb, a new electronic dizzy and a new coil. All the plugs and leads have been checked and double checked and the timing has also been checked and double checked.... The only fault was the vacuum pipe was not pushed up the rubber hose far enough.... Rolling Eyes

_________________

Series 3 1972 LWB Truck Cab Pick Up. My daily drive.

pryantcc · Joined: 07 Sep 2009 Posts: 88

Great to hear that you found a fix! The vacuum hose won't have caused your points to melt though, so you've probably fixed two things by also swapping to electronic ignition.

Fluffle-Valve · Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:58 am Post subject:

Mog · Joined: 30 Dec 2007 Posts: 663 Location: Sydney

The points melted because they got too hot......groan ........

Your smile for the day !

Farmer John · Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 181 Location: Manawatu NZ

Hello Mr Fluffle. The points will melt if they are forced to conduct enough current to earth so if you have a sporty coil with a pretty label it might draw enough to do this over time.
What is probably the major cotributor to your hot points is the motor stopped with the coil still live. Either because the key is on, or a fault which has the same effect. The other condition which needs to exist is for the points to be closed.
Leaving the key on will make the coil very hot, so considering tthat the heating current must be carried by the breaker spring, it is easy to imagine how hot the spring will get and what it will do to the plastic attached to it.
Such heat might soften the spring even if nothing melts presenting you with an effective rev limiter. That is the symptom.
So a test light or voltmeter to check for volts at the coil live side with the key off.
John

Mog · Joined: 30 Dec 2007 Posts: 663 Location: Sydney

We were camped out at Opalton in Queensland, [Google that. ] when "Red Drago " turned up in his Landrover. So we sat down to have a yarn and beer. After a while there was a strange noise coming from his Landrover, on inspection, his oil filled coil had exploded. He had left the ignition on,so it does happen. Lucky, we had a spare coil and saved a round trip of 200 kms.So it is wise to carry a spare coil if you go in the bush. Later on "Red Drago" spent some years in jail for murder, I knew the guy he killed, Ivan.