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Fuel tank sealer
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colwyn500



Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1745
Location: Nairn, Scotland

PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:54 am    Post subject: Fuel tank sealer Reply with quote

I tried a search but didn't get very specific results. I need to use some tank sealer and wonder if anyone has used the KBS product.

Also, the gaps around the baffles in the tank seem very small. If you have used sealer, did this affect the fuel getting to all parts of the tank?
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4267
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most high build paints are 400 microns absolute top, I wouldn't imagine that tank sealers need any greater thickness, so as long as the baffles have 1mm or so clearance, I would think all should be well.

just remember to keep rotating the tank so that you don't get the sealer settling in one place, also use the minimum amount of sealer required.

I have been doing a bit of research recently for a club on the the practical precautions that we need to take with the introduction of ethanol, including looking at tank sealing... quite what the difference is (apart from the price Wink) with these tank sealers and 2k or epoxy products I don't know? I have some steel strips in the workshop, some coated in 2k primer and some in epoxy, some of the strips are sitting in "normal" petrol" and others in pure alcohol, also a petrol alcohol water mix.. I'm leaving them for a few months to see what if any deterioration there is.

Dave
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62rebel



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 343
Location: Charleston, South Carolina

PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just sealed the tank on my 'B a couple of weeks back; if you follow the directions absolutely you should get excellent results; do NOT skip a step or scrimp on time. they say to let it cure for 96 hours; due to shortness of funds for fuel, mine set up for twice that before i put any fuel in it. the KBS stuff does seal up well! while it was curing, i had the cap on and pressure from the product gassing-out built up. the tank MUST BE DRY when the sealer is put in. it cures like cyanocrylate glue; moisture in the air catalyses it, but standing water disrupts it.

here's a tip; they sell three sizes of kits, one for small cycle tanks, one for larger tanks, and another for autos. i think they ALL hae the same cleaner and flush products, but different size cans of sealer. i bought a large cycle tank kit and an extra can of sealer to do the 'B tank.
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nothing is ever so far gone as to be unsalvageable. see this bolt?.....
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colwyn500



Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1745
Location: Nairn, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 7:09 pm    Post subject: Job done Reply with quote

Many thanks for all the advice and reassurance.
I just completed the job today. The KBS sealer is very runny and there were no problems in getting it to all of the areas of the tank. Even the baffles, which didn't strictly need it, seem to have got a coat. I have a lot of patience so I twirled and twiddled the tank for longer than the minimum and I left it upside down for a while.
There was the tiniest bit of surplus and that's from the smallest tin I could get, 8oz I think. Mind you, the tank is only 4 1/2 gallons capacity.
The pinholes externally had already been filled with epoxy and the whole thing coated with KBS Rust Seal.
I am pleased to have retained the original tank and to save nearly £200 in the process.
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