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NONORT
Joined: 26 Apr 2012 Posts: 55 Location: Southampton
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Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:25 am Post subject: Bullnose Cowley Radiator |
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Hi, I have been driving 1924 Cowley for most of the weekend, great fun but. the car boils at the drop of a hat or even the sniff of a hill. I suspect the rad is partially blocked. I know that in the past a form of 'rad weld' was used to 'cure' a small leak. I think this treatment has clogged up the rad to an extent were it just passing enough water when not being worked hard, but the water flow is not enough when pushed a little harder. The car has a thermic siphon system so the flow needs to be really free. Any ides what will clean the old 'rad weld' out without destroying the rad. Any ideas will be seriously contemplated as this problem is ruining a great car. |
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peter scott

Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7211 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 11:50 am Post subject: |
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I don't know but I would try caustic soda.
Peter _________________ https://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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mikeC

Joined: 31 Jul 2009 Posts: 1808 Location: Market Warsop, Nottinghamshire
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Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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Unfortunately the Cowley cooling is marginal at the best of times; I fear the only effective solution is going to be a (very expensive) recore - sorry  |
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TribalElder

Joined: 01 Oct 2012 Posts: 67 Location: Franskton Vic Australia
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Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:38 am Post subject: |
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My Morris 8 Ser E radiator was in similar fettle. This engine doesn't have waterpump either.
I used an alkaline Radiator cleaner product and then flushed and refilled with clean water and coolant/anti-rust inhibitor. "Nulon" is the brand I favour. I also changed the original fan from single blade to double blade. When the outdoors temp rises to over 40c degrees it still struggles somewhat and I have thought of fitting an inline radiator pump, which is fairly cheap at about $115 from motor sports shop. Although they are 12v and my system is 6 volts, I am told that they are quite efficent and do run on the 6 volts, circulating the water much better.
The alternative would be getting the radiator professionally flushed. Natrad does that in Oz. _________________ Ian from Oz
It's hard to run like an Emu
When you are girt by Numbats |
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BigJohn
Joined: 01 Jan 2011 Posts: 954 Location: Wem, Shropshire
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Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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My Standard Flying 12 radiator was gummed up, so I used two bottles of Aldi dishwasher cleaner, left it in the rad diluted with water for a week and then reverse flushed the crap out. It seems it is mainly citric acid, which can be bought from chemists. |
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NONORT
Joined: 26 Apr 2012 Posts: 55 Location: Southampton
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Posted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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Hi guys been trying the Citric acid route.I have added three table spoon fulls in the four gallon system. Don't want to over do it and make more holes! Have been to the Netley Marsh steam and craft fair for the last three days. gentle five miles each way.Will let you know what happens. |
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 1745 Location: Nairn, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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Oxalic acid (you can get crystals cheap on Ebay). Really works and plenty of instructions on the internet. |
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NONORT
Joined: 26 Apr 2012 Posts: 55 Location: Southampton
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Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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I have removed the radiator from the car and there was plenty of crud floating about in the bottom hose. I have back flushed the rad and block all sorts of nastiness came out flakes of rust bits of gravel? and sand. Will have another go at flushing before refitting. Does anyone know of a rust inhibitor that I can use. I still expect the car to boil on occasions. As is the want of a Cowley. Anti freeze is a non starter as we drain the cars each year and can't be bothered to keep it. Someone suggested an egg cup full of Paraffin? |
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 1745 Location: Nairn, Scotland
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Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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NONORT wrote: | I have removed the radiator from the car and there was plenty of crud floating about in the bottom hose. I have back flushed the rad and block all sorts of nastiness came out flakes of rust bits of gravel? and sand. Will have another go at flushing before refitting. Does anyone know of a rust inhibitor that I can use. I still expect the car to boil on occasions. As is the want of a Cowley. Anti freeze is a non starter as we drain the cars each year and can't be bothered to keep it. Someone suggested an egg cup full of Paraffin? |
Nonort, from experience with old engine blocks and draining down for extended periods I suggest that you really go to town with cleaning inside the water-jacket and radiator using whatever product you choose, then keep it filled with a tip-top mix of antifreeze/inhibitor mix all year round, even when standing in the garage. Being exposed to air and winter condensation on the porous, flaked rust lining of the block will just mean it keeps getting worse.
You will be rewarded by more even running and obviously, no more overheating. I did this nearly two years ago and I am delighted with the cleanliness of the coolant, block and radiator. |
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NONORT
Joined: 26 Apr 2012 Posts: 55 Location: Southampton
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Guys not been around recently. But hears an up date. Before refitting the radiator it was flushed forwards backwards upside down inside out. The bottom fitting bolted on the block was made of Aluminum and heavily corroded. I have made a new one from Brass. The way that the outlet from the radiator and the inlet into the block is arranged is a problem waiting to happen. When you drain the radiator there is about two inches of water left in the system. Due to the very short length of hose there is no way of draining this area. Any rubbish collected in this area is also likely to be stuck there until the radiator is removed again. No amount of back flushing would ever get the muck from the bottom of the engine to the top hose fitting. I will try the Anti Freeze route this winter. I hope to get the car out on the road again in the next couple of weeks. Must try and master the art of adding pictures to the posts. Will post the results later. |
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PAUL BEAUMONT
Joined: 27 Nov 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Barnsley S. Yorks
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Posted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 1:31 pm Post subject: |
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I use the "drain it over winter principle" Since extending my workshop I have added a rainwater tank. I now use rainwater in my cooling system. It does not stop rust but it does stop the cooling system filling up with
limestone!
Paul |
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 1745 Location: Nairn, Scotland
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Posted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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PAUL BEAUMONT wrote: | I use the "drain it over winter principle" Since extending my workshop I have added a rainwater tank. I now use rainwater in my cooling system. It does not stop rust but it does stop the cooling system filling up with
limestone!
Paul |
Paul , if the system has been really well cleaned, keep it filled all year with a top quality coolant mix. You will still get corrosion and possibly quite badly if you drain all winter. Condensation will form and linger on any crusty rust and simple make it worse in the presence of air. I had this issue with my pre-war Austin and presumed that the constant draining and filling would keep it clear but when I got to grips with removing the rust , the system was really clarted so I now use a coolant. |
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