Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Miken]

I will shortly be taking my old pre war Morris off the road for a winter refurbishment.
Its not in too bad condition but its a bit frayed around the edges on the 4 wings/fenders.
There are no panels available for Minors so i will have to fabricate repair panels and let them in as best I can.
So;
When fitting a patch or repair panel I plan to cut out the rusty part and sand/grind/shot blast back to good metal.
I realise that i can either joggle and spot weld/tack the panel in place and then continuously weld the outside joint,then sand/grind and fill to make good .
Or ,
simply place the patch under the existing panel without joggling and weld, grind etc but use a bit more filler to make good.

My question is:-

What is the best way to tackle the inside/underside of the joint?

As I see it, I can either:-
a) continuous weld it to seal the joint. Welding both sides may cause excessive distortion and make more work than its worth.
b) brush rust resistant zinc primer and waxoyl into the joint and hope for the best.
c) shot blast and seal with plumbers lead. If I did this i would worry that i had sealed acidic flux into the joint.
d) Maybe fibreglass the inside to seal the joint.
There are probably many other variations . I wonder which is the best?
Suggestions please
Mike
PS, Sometimes I think i worry too much.

[Kelsham]

If I was replacing metal I would butt join the metal, the overlap method will be prone to start rusting under the repair.
If you do short tacks and allow them to cool before carrying on it will help minimise distortion. You eventually join the tacks and grind back with a flap disc in a grinder.

If you use the overlap method, as you describe, it is vital to seal both sides of the repair. If moisture can reach the back of the repair the filler will fall out.

I assume you will be using MIG?

I have the same reservations about lead as you and would rather use a modern filler such as Upol fantastic.

Which ever method you use make sure the back is sealed thoroughly, seam sealer is good product.

Regards Kels.

[Miken]

[MikeEdwards]

I've been doing a lot of this recently (with MIG) and try to butt join wherever I can - as Kelsham said, I don't want to be worrying about what's happening between the two adjacent bits of steel. I paint weld-through primer on where I have no choice, such as where it's replacing a spot-welded joint.

I'd heartily recommend a look through this (long) thread: http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/70135/panels

[Phil - Nottingham]

Butt join without doubt
_________________
Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[Miken]

Thanks for the replies. I shall adopt butt welds where practical.
The link to the article on panel making is very interesting, useful and comprehensive.
I havent worked all the way through it yet.
Fortunately my car is nowhere near as complicated as some of the work he is describing.
It uses lot of wood in the construction of the body and has a seperate chassis.
Mike

[Greg]