Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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MikeB-MGB
Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Posts: 1 Location: Wilmington, DE, USA
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Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 5:48 pm Post subject: 1975 MGB - Appear to have a Clutch that won't disengage |
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On June 1, 2013 I began working on my 1975 MGB that has not been running for, about, 13 years. It was covered, but stored outside for, about, 7 years (average temperature, no lower than 40 degree F). The rest of the time it was in an unheated garage. By July 2013, I got the engine running and started working on the clutch and brake systems. I replaced a missing clutch hose, cleaned both the master and slave cylinders, and replaced a section of 1/4" tubing in the clutch system. I can see that the clutch fork moves a little (I read somewhere, it should move 3/8" to engage the clutch bearing), but can not put the car in gear (grinding the gears). I am not a professional mechanic, but it appears the clutch will not disengage. I could move the clutch fork, with a lot of effort, using a bar to move the fork, about 2 inches. I need help. (1) The clutch hydraulics appears to be working correctly? (2) Do I have to remove the engine to disengage the clutch manually? (3) Is there any other way to disengage the clutch without removing the engine? (4) Should the clutch fork move easily if the clutch plate/bearing is working properly? (5) any other thoughts or suggestions welcomed, Thanks,
Last edited by MikeB-MGB on Thu Sep 26, 2013 2:34 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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peppiB
Joined: 30 Jun 2008 Posts: 686 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
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Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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It's 40 years since I had one of those, but it sounds as if the thrust bearing needs replacing. When I did mine I lifted out the engine, leaving the gearbox in place
(as I said, it is 40 years and my memory isn't what it was so I stand to be corrected) |
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Inglewood

Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 183 Location: Stone, Staffordshire
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Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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MikeB, it seems inevitable that the engine will have to come out. The issue could be a siezed spiggot bearing, warped clutch plate, corroded clutch surfaces, bent fork etc.
I think you must bite the bullet and remove the engine, |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4231 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Mike
It could be as simple as the clutch being stuck to the flywheel , quite common when a vehicle is left for sometime ; follow this link for a few tips on how to quickly free it http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_104.htm
Cheers
Dave |
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47Jag
Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bothwell, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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Mike,
Does the clutch pedal feel hard? This would be what I would expect with Dave's suggestion of a seized pressure plate. If the pedal has a long soft travel I would think that you are looking at a bleeding or sealing problems.
Art |
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peter scott

Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7211 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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ukdave2002 wrote: | Hi Mike
It could be as simple as the clutch being stuck to the flywheel , quite common when a vehicle is left for sometime ; follow this link for a few tips on how to quickly free it http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_104.htm
Cheers
Dave |
Hi Mike,
I agree with Dave. This is the most likely cause of your problem.
The rusting of the flywheel and pressure plate penetrates the linings of the driven plate and everything gets stuck together.
It may be impossible to free it without dismantling but you have nothing to lose by giving it brutal treatment. Start the car in gear and change up to top gear (need to get your engine and road speed synchronised) then try reving the engine and sudden braking whilst holding the clutch down.
Peter _________________ https://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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