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1975 MGB - Appear to have a Clutch that won't disengage
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MikeB-MGB



Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Posts: 1
Location: Wilmington, DE, USA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 5:48 pm    Post subject: 1975 MGB - Appear to have a Clutch that won't disengage Reply with quote

On June 1, 2013 I began working on my 1975 MGB that has not been running for, about, 13 years. It was covered, but stored outside for, about, 7 years (average temperature, no lower than 40 degree F). The rest of the time it was in an unheated garage. By July 2013, I got the engine running and started working on the clutch and brake systems. I replaced a missing clutch hose, cleaned both the master and slave cylinders, and replaced a section of 1/4" tubing in the clutch system. I can see that the clutch fork moves a little (I read somewhere, it should move 3/8" to engage the clutch bearing), but can not put the car in gear (grinding the gears). I am not a professional mechanic, but it appears the clutch will not disengage. I could move the clutch fork, with a lot of effort, using a bar to move the fork, about 2 inches. I need help. (1) The clutch hydraulics appears to be working correctly? (2) Do I have to remove the engine to disengage the clutch manually? (3) Is there any other way to disengage the clutch without removing the engine? (4) Should the clutch fork move easily if the clutch plate/bearing is working properly? (5) any other thoughts or suggestions welcomed, Thanks,

Last edited by MikeB-MGB on Thu Sep 26, 2013 2:34 pm; edited 2 times in total
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peppiB



Joined: 30 Jun 2008
Posts: 686
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne

PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's 40 years since I had one of those, but it sounds as if the thrust bearing needs replacing. When I did mine I lifted out the engine, leaving the gearbox in place
(as I said, it is 40 years and my memory isn't what it was so I stand to be corrected)
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Inglewood



Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 183
Location: Stone, Staffordshire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MikeB, it seems inevitable that the engine will have to come out. The issue could be a siezed spiggot bearing, warped clutch plate, corroded clutch surfaces, bent fork etc.

I think you must bite the bullet and remove the engine,
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4231
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mike

It could be as simple as the clutch being stuck to the flywheel , quite common when a vehicle is left for sometime ; follow this link for a few tips on how to quickly free it http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_104.htm

Cheers

Dave
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike,

Does the clutch pedal feel hard? This would be what I would expect with Dave's suggestion of a seized pressure plate. If the pedal has a long soft travel I would think that you are looking at a bleeding or sealing problems.

Art
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7211
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Hi Mike

It could be as simple as the clutch being stuck to the flywheel , quite common when a vehicle is left for sometime ; follow this link for a few tips on how to quickly free it http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_104.htm

Cheers

Dave


Hi Mike,

I agree with Dave. This is the most likely cause of your problem.

The rusting of the flywheel and pressure plate penetrates the linings of the driven plate and everything gets stuck together.

It may be impossible to free it without dismantling but you have nothing to lose by giving it brutal treatment. Start the car in gear and change up to top gear (need to get your engine and road speed synchronised) then try reving the engine and sudden braking whilst holding the clutch down.

Peter
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1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon
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