Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Daniel H]

The Heater box, air filter housing and front number plate bracket on my Cambridge are in desperate need of a repaint. As all three of these items have suffered from rust I decided to try a couple of coats of Hammerite gloss black on the bracket after giving it a good wire brushing and rinsing off but the results have been terrible, brush stokes everywhere and a matt like finish in some places! So can anyone suggest a more effective paint that can be applied onto rusty surfaces? Rustoleum maybe? Thanks in advance.

[Kelsham]

You are searching for the holy grail. When you find something that can stop rust by overcoating it pigs will do a flyby.

Sadly you need to strip off the old paint use a polycarbide disc on your electric drill, then remove as much rust as you can with it.

Treat the rust remaining with something like Jenolite, prime and then two topcoats.

Aldi do a good general purpose paint at a reasonable price. Hammerite is generally thought to be not as good as it used to be.

Regards Kels.

[ukdave2002]

I Agree with Kels; there is no magic bullet when it comes to corrosion.

You have 2 problems, firstly to deal with the rust, secondly to achieve a good cosmetic result. Kels has covered the rust . In terms of making it look good, things like the heater box were never originally painted in gloss; they were a satin finish, probably originally for cost reasons. Gloss paint has the disadvantage that it highlights every defect, brush painting smooth surfaces without leaving brush marks is tricky; the gloss the extenuates the brush marks.

My advice would be to strip all the paint off, treat the rust, deal with any noticeable imperfections with a smidge of stopper (depending on how good you want the job to look), prime and spray with satin black; all vehicle paint suppliers stock satin black in an aerosol because so many brackets and stuff normally hidden is painted in satin black.

Dave

[ukdave2002]

I Agree with Kels; there is no magic bullet when it comes to corrosion.

You have 2 problems, firstly to deal with the rust, secondly to achieve a good cosmetic result. If you search this forum there are lots of posts regarding dealing with rust. In terms of making it look good, things like the heater box were never originally painted in gloss; they were a satin finish, probably originally for cost reasons. Gloss paint has the disadvantage that it highlights every defect, brush painting smooth surfaces without leaving brush marks is tricky; the gloss the extenuates the brush marks.

My advice would be to strip all the paint off, treat the rust, deal with any noticeable imperfections with a smidge of stopper (depending on how good you want the job to look), prime and spray with satin black; all vehicle paint suppliers stock satin black in an aerosol because so many brackets and stuff normally hidden is painted in satin black.

Dave

[ajlelectronics]

Apart from POR-15 of course. Designed for exactly that purpose. Remove loose rust and degrease. Ideally Metal Ready dip, then paint.
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[MikeEdwards]

In theory, though, as rust is formed by interaction with air (well, oxygen), surely any air-tight coating will prevent the rust getting any worse. The problem for me is that once coated, I wouldn't know it wasn't getting worse, so I'd much rather treat it first.

I've been using POR-15 but have also read negative things about it. I have seen it peel off in a layer when I've masked off a section and removed the tape. But then I've seen it on stuff like lawnmower beds where it gets a lot of potential damage, without any trouble. Biggest problem for me with POR-15, aside from the above, is that it's a high gloss finish which isn't right for the bits I want to do next.

[colwyn500]

I have just come back from the garage after using "Rust-Seal" for the first time. It's advertised as a POR 15 competitor. All the American techy stuff and thre part process etc.

I used my preferred prep. which includes the degrease, derust, rust treat etc in any case.

It goes on with no primer, thin but with amazing coverage. Negligible brush marks, the type I got should dry to a satin finish. it is available in loads of colours. It looks like it will be on my hands for life...nothing is dissolving or rubbing it off. I will post photos later.

[gresham flyer]

Find a friendly local bead blaster. If you can remove the part in question take it to him,but prime coat the metal item as soon as you can after cleaning.


It is the only real way of cleaning and de -rusting metal items.

We have a Polish lad who has just started up in business in our town,very helpful,does a good job and his prices are very good.

I took the complete front end of a Morris Minor to him......
Grill housing.
Grill.
Grill surround.
Front bumper valance.
Bumper iron.
2 no small brackets.

Total price £35.00.

The items were ready to prime,some localised stopper in places then spray painted.

G F


G F

[Rosco663]

Gentlemen,

I am verging on the edge of preparing to sand blast then paint a chassis so I am following this thread with some interest. I am heading down the POR road myself and have armed myself with POR Metalready and POR15 paint (and a heap of throw away brushes )

I do have a question though, and I have seen the term used several times.

Q: What is "stopper"?

You will have to excuse me, I'm an Aussie
_________________
Rosco

[D4B]

[ajlelectronics]

Stopper is a very fine filler that will fill pinholes etc. Normally very thin, sometimes thin enough to pour. I use Upol Gold for that. There are stoppers available in tubes which are cellulose based, these will work as long as it is only applied very thinly, which is after all the whole point of stopper. However, the two part stoppers are going to do the job right, so I would aslways recommend them over cellulose stopper.


For the POR-15 gloss issue, you can overcoat the POR-15 with a paint of your choice. No further prep to do if sprayed before it is finally cured. (Bet you didn't know that it had even been ill!).

In fact, POR-15 doesn't like UV, so for anything that sees sunlight, you must overcoat it anyway. This maybe why some people have adhesion failures, either poor prep (most likely) or UV damage.
_________________
Evans Waterless Coolants
Find this and more at http://www.classicmicrocars.com
Sat TV / Aerial systems etc: http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

[Rosco663]

Thanks for answering my 'stopper' conundrum . Same same as finishing putty downunder.

Regarding the POR15 UV issue I welcome the spray overcoating suggestion - thanks again.

To keep the recipe similar flavours I reckon I will go with the chassis paint Blackcoat Gloss as I want the dumbirons to look good

Cheers
_________________
Rosco

[Rootes75]

Glad I read this, I am looking for some 'stopper' or finishing putty as we call it.

[colwyn500]

http://auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=58

[steely dan]

A wee tip for anyone using or buying Hammerite paint .
Next time Aldi are listing their " metal paint " in 1 lt tins buy it as it is their own version of Hammerite /Smoothrite paints at a fraction of the cost of the branded product and as good if not better than the original.
The green , black and white are smooth drying and the silver has a hammered finish.They can be thinned with white spirit and sprayed if required.
I've used them all for several years now and cant fault them at all.