Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:39 pm Post subject: Rustoleum or spray |
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I was having a read earlier and found a reference to this http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Bodywork_and_Glass_Roller_painting via a post by norustplease.
I've been trying to figure out what to do about painting my Austin 7. I have to paint it myself.
If I buy a compressor, it will have to be something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolf-Sioux-9-5cfm-Compressor-complete/dp/B004CRF9I0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top, expensive ones are too expensive. I shall then have to learn how to use it to spray cellulose. (most of the reviews are from people who have no clue!) I suppose I'd get half the price back if I sold it on ebay.
If Rustoleum works, it just sounds so much easier. No mess, no noise and I know how to use a roller.
I would like a decent standard of finish so the car doesn't look like it was done by a two year old on drugs. Presumably brushing works ok because there are quite a few places where a roller won't fit.
The concern is if Rustoleum is so good, why does everyone spray?
Advice please, I'm stuck |
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kevin2306
Joined: 01 Jul 2013 Posts: 1359 Location: nr Llangollen, north wales
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Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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i personally think that particular compressor is far too small other than for using to inflate tyres, power a blow gun on nail gun.
have you considered keeping an eye out for a 2nd hand one?
something 3hp with a 100ltr tank would be more versatile, i bought a rough looking one off ebay a few weeks back (for a mate) and it only cost me £40. quick clean up and it is in use.
kev |
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1763 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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I've had a look and I can't say I fancy the idea at all. When I first got my Herald the PO had painted it with a roller and coach enamel and boy oh boy did it show - orange peel is smooth by comparison. Now I've tried to spray many times and realised that I'm never going to be any good at it, so I got some more of the same paint and started to sand it down and recoat with a decent brush, a bit at a time. Didn't get it right first time, of course, but with a little practice I soon found that I could get a pretty good finish straight off the brush, with no need to mess around with extensive flatting and polishing. That seems to be the real weakness with this guy's roller method - essentially you need to put on lots of paint and then spend what could easily be weeks flatting it back to a reasonable finish, assuming of course that you don't go right through your new paint on the way! Yes it seems that a lot of people have gone down the same route, and good luck to them: but I think it's mainly people who lack confidence in their own abilities, a bit like the people who go straight for learing to drive an automatic car and get a restricted licence, not because of any disability but because they just don't think they could cope with a manual 'box, without trying it first. If spraying really isn't practical for whatever reason, I would say get a couple of decent brushes and give it a go, if you really can't get a good finish that way then the brushes - provided you clean them well and look after them - will still be useful for household decorating. I'm not sure about the rustoleum paint either, I've seen it in the shops sold as a Hammerite type (paint straight over rust) "solution", and that sets alarm bells ringing straight away. I would prefer a traditional coach enamel that doesn't make any wild claims about performance or ease of use, remember there are no shortcuts to successful painting! |
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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I thought that would be the case.
I keep a look out on ebay for something economical that looks as though it works. Trouble is I don't want to have to fix a compressor/gun that I don't know anything about.
I suspect I might be better off with a cheap new one. I appreciate they run out of puff, but it is only a little car. With the wings, door, bonnet and boot off and accounting for the sunshine/cloth roof there really isn't much left to paint.
I don't know what sort of gun is supplied with the cheap kits, but I don't see why an LVLP gun wouldn't suit a weedy compressor, they don't need much air and it doesn't produce much. Does that make sense? |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4231 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Peter
I have done a bit of painting in my time, the first being a complete respray on a Chrysler Sunbeam, using a set up like the Wolf one you have looked at; true you couldn't expect the compressor to deliver air all day, but when you are tackling a panel at at time is was perfectly usable, as was the gun that came with it.
The worst enemy to the home painter is the environment, we normally have to paint in the same garage that we strip engines in and have rubbed down the old paintwork! Dust and contamination can be a problem. Slow drying paints can also be a pain as it increases the chance of contamination, especially insects that all seem attracted to wet paint! I have not used the roller method, but I'd imagine the paint would be much slower to dry than cellulose ?
What ever route you go, preparation is key, and remember most paint defects like runs and orange peel can be sorted out after the paint has dried.
Cheers Dave |
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bob2
Joined: 06 Dec 2007 Posts: 1728 Location: Malta
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 10:55 am Post subject: |
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I'm no expert on paints or painting methods but I wish to share my experience with you.
This summer I have repainted the engine bay of one of my minis after sanding it down to bare metal, I also did the slam panel and 3/4 of the front panel. Well What I used is 2 pack paint, a solid colour that does not need a clear lacquer and a roller ( a lot of rollers actually as I used a new one for each coat).
I initially brushed on the etching primer cuase some of the factory primer was still present in some places, then I rollered on 2 coats of high build primer, sanded them down with 320 dry, then 2 coats of colour with enough time in between and then the day afetr the 2 nd coat sanded all down with 400 dry, this took off around 50 percent of the orange peel, then I gave another 2 coats, the day after the 2nd coat was given I sanded the lot down with 800 wet and then I gave a last coat. The ratio was mixed as 3:1, 3 colour and 1 hardner that is.
After about a week I bought some 1500 and 2000 wet n dry paper and started sanding with water and liquid soap. Then when I was satisfied with the look I polished the lot using farecla G3 and then autoglym (couldn't find g10 anywhere so resorted to a bottle of autoglym I had on the shelf)
You can see the result here:
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4586&start=150
I'd say that the finish is very good though not up to professional spray standard, however I was a bit inpatient and did not do the prep work thoroughly enough. Add to that that a mini's engine bay is a bit awkward not like when you're painting a complete car with a lot of big flat surfaces which you can sand down better.
My verdict is that it takes longer to do, and there's more sanding involved but it's doable and you do not get angry neighbours like when you're spraying, nor do you need to mask up everything including anything in the garage were you're painting.
Infact I am now contemplating on doing the whole car in the future with this method!
Oh btw you have to use mini rollers, these are called high density foam rollers if I'm not mistaken and have a rounded edge on the outside.
And do not forget to wipe down the area with thinners before painting, I also used a tack cloth after wiping down with thinner.
Good luck
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baconsdozen

Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 1119 Location: Under the car.
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:14 am Post subject: |
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I used an enamel on my old transit when I painted it about five years ago. I tried spraying but ended up hand painting with a really good quality brush. It's lasted wellbut there are now a few places that need repair and a repaint is probably needed after.
I've deseamed the wings on my taxi (they had rusted badly in the joins and its a bit of a bodge so I've welded them together). The paint already on it reacts badly with just about anything,plus its a blue that I can't find a match for so I'm going to rub it down and hand paint with a black enamel. _________________ Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired). |
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:36 am Post subject: |
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Hm, conflicting views. Looks like spraying involves less labour but I am equally likely to screw up both methods. I've quite a bit to do before I get to painting, so I'll mull it over. Veering towards spraying currently.
I helped spray my Midget with something that was sold as lorry paint. One coat and it was fine, certainly for a trials car. Just a shame the bottom 3 inches of the car turned to rust |
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baconsdozen

Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 1119 Location: Under the car.
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D4B

Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 2083 Location: Hampshire UK
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 1745 Location: Nairn, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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Just researching paint prep and came across a whole site about this technique. |
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