Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[TM8]

Hi All,
The Restoration process is well underway but i have a question for those who have replaced the Ash Wood frame along with the Steel Body Panels. My steel body panels below the doors need to be replaced, but currently they only return some 10mm over the top of the wood frame, the same goes for the door hinge pillar. My question is once you have nailed down the 10mm return to the ash wood what is the correct way of covering/making good this area? Does one place another thin strip of wood over the entire area?
Regards
Trevor

[Rick]

I can't comment for the 8 specifically, but on my '32 Minor tourer the steel (held in place by tacks) just folds over and the edge is exposed, no cover. Whether it's original or not I don't know, but it's been that way a mighty long time

RJ
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[Rosco663]

Gidday Trevor,

Good to see you are at the stage of getting frame and panel together - good job

My 8/40 has thin cover strips to neaten the appearance. The following photo shows detail at the top of the driver's side door pillar. A thin slab of wood is fixed through to the main wooden frame with large coachscrews. There is a checkout here to house the door hinge. The door hinge is in turn fixed all the way through with two large coachscrews with the third fixing though to a captive nut. The metal folds have been tidied up by filling with lead solder. The sill panel is similar.



I hope this helps in the short term as I am working away and can't get you a better picture/s to look at.

Oh and BTW this is as original
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Rosco

[TM8]

Hi All,
Thanks for the feedback i had seen some pictures with a thin strip of wood but was not sure. I had to strip alot of Fiberglass in this area when i did the stripping and i am pretty much sure they didn't have that in the 30's.
Rosco you mentioned on the Door pillar and Sill i am assuming the same thing on the door stricker post as well? Thanks for the pictures it is amazing how clear it becomes.
Regards
Trevor

[Rosco663]

Hi Trevor,

Yes the front section is of similar construction a wooden strip to hide the folded metal. This section of wood however is a bit more complex on my 8/40 and more than just decoration. It must withstand the repeated closing of the door against it

I hope the photo below will help with my explanation. If you look across to the offside you can see the curved section at the front, an easy bandsaw cut. The outside edge has a longitudinal full length rebate, easy job with a router. There are also checkouts for both the striker/latch and also the locating wedge. Both the striker/latch and wedge had already been removed and inside an old tobacco tin in the tool box area.



I will be home in a couple of weeks and can take more detailed photos if you aren't in a hurry.

Cheers
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Rosco

[Harry49]

Your photos are useful. I am struggling with renewing ash frame on my 35 Tourer. Perhaps I am being too fussy but trying to get the hinge post and door to line up with the new top sill attached to the mounting plates is proving very tiresome. Do you have any thoughts or photos?
Anyone else succeeded in renewing a whole ash frame on a Tourer? My old frame was rotten right through and I am wondering how different a new piece of ash can be from a piece 78 years old? Oooh er!

Harry
Bristol
England.

[Rosco663]

Gidday Harry,

Can't offer any help at this stage but I will be in the same boat next year, after all the mechanical repairs are complete.

I will be doing a partial replacement as it is really only the lower sections that will require replacement. I will watch this thread to see what comes of your enquiry.

Cheers
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Rosco

[ukdave2002]

I think I may have posted this diagram before, its from the Rique Llinares catalogue.

I know of someone in the Morris Register who has bought the complete ash from from them, and is in the process of fitting it.



Dave