Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Treganin
Joined: 17 Jul 2014 Posts: 17 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:25 pm Post subject: My '54 Thames ET6 |
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Hi All,
Newbie needing help! Typical I know.
Just recently picked up our '54 ET6 4D, but we think she's blown the O-rings on the bottom of the wet liners, water entering the oil when the engine wasn't even turned over. We know there's good compression and it's not the lift pump.
We're going to tackle the strip down and rebuild ourselves with the help of a knowledgeable friend, but.......can't find details of the torque settings for the relevant bolts - head, shells etc. Can anyone help? Or point me towards where I can find these settings?
Here she is:
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Kenham
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 209 Location: Kent
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Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Hello, Mains 70-75, Big end 55-60 , Head 75-80 . I have a workshop manual if you need me to check anything. Liners can be tight to move ,a puller is usefull but I have used a big hammer and a piece of hardwood. Make a good inspection to the bottom of the block where the O ring seals as they are prone to corrosion and can be the source of leaking. Nice lorry, I really need to get mine back on the road. (Sorry if I am telling you how to suck eggs) Ken |
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Treganin
Joined: 17 Jul 2014 Posts: 17 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Kenham wrote: | | Hello, Mains 70-75, Big end 55-60 , Head 75-80 . I have a workshop manual if you need me to check anything. Liners can be tight to move ,a puller is usefull but I have used a big hammer and a piece of hardwood. Make a good inspection to the bottom of the block where the O ring seals as they are prone to corrosion and can be the source of leaking. Nice lorry, I really need to get mine back on the road. (Sorry if I am telling you how to suck eggs) Ken |
Thanks for that Kenham, Definitely not teaching me to suck eggs - no risk of that, let's just say I'm not the most experienced mechanic in the world
Hence why I have a mate helping - Had heard that the lips on the bottom of the block is prone to rusting through, so I definitely have my fingers crossed that that is not the case this time! I'll bear you offer in mind if anything else crops up.
Anyone have any pictures of a 'stock' interior? |
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Farmer John
Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 181 Location: Manawatu NZ
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Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:00 pm Post subject: Trader liners |
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Hi. Two points. Check the height of the liners above the block. Look for at least three thou, manufacturers quote various different heights.
If the block or sleeves suffer from corrosion, water hammer, electrolysis or anything like that at the bottom where they should be sealing, use loads of black silicone sealer from a tube when fitting the liners, the "fix all" stuff for house gutters, downpipes etc.
John |
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Treganin
Joined: 17 Jul 2014 Posts: 17 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:11 pm Post subject: Re: Trader liners |
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| Farmer John wrote: | Hi. Two points. Check the height of the liners above the block. Look for at least three thou, manufacturers quote various different heights.
If the block or sleeves suffer from corrosion, water hammer, electrolysis or anything like that at the bottom where they should be sealing, use loads of black silicone sealer from a tube when fitting the liners, the "fix all" stuff for house gutters, downpipes etc.
John |
Thanks John,
All advice is welcome.
Is it 'game over' if the flange on the block is gone or is that were the silicon comes in to play |
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Farmer John
Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 181 Location: Manawatu NZ
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:14 am Post subject: trader liners |
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I am thinking that there is a flange around the top of the liner which seats in the block and holds the liner up. This is purely a mechanical function so as long as you think the liner will be supported properly that will be fine.
The lower end of the liner fits into a master bore in the block with an "O" ring to seal. This is where leakage can occur and that is what the silicone will fix.
John |
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Rick Site Admin

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22841 Location: UK
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Treganin
Joined: 17 Jul 2014 Posts: 17 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:01 am Post subject: |
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| Rick wrote: | Welcome to the forum Treganin, good to have another lorry fan on here - do you have any more photos to hand of the Ford?
RJ |
Sure do. How many do you want
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Treganin
Joined: 17 Jul 2014 Posts: 17 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:04 am Post subject: Re: trader liners |
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| Farmer John wrote: | I am thinking that there is a flange around the top of the liner which seats in the block and holds the liner up. This is purely a mechanical function so as long as you think the liner will be supported properly that will be fine.
The lower end of the liner fits into a master bore in the block with an "O" ring to seal. This is where leakage can occur and that is what the silicone will fix.
John |
Thanks again, strip down starts in earnest next weekend, so fingers crossed and I'll keep you all updated. |
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Kenham
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 209 Location: Kent
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:38 am Post subject: |
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| I think from memory the liner should sit up about 2 thou, shims are available to correct this, fitting under the top lip. As for the bottom, as stated that is where the leak usually occurs, if you drop the sump you can sometimes see which one is leaking if you are lucky. You will end up with water and oil in your eyes IME ! Also as stated silicone is a good substance for curing this problem , most of my experience with leaking liners has been with Fordson Major tractors and I think a lot of this was caused by not using antifreeze and the block rotting away. Most of these tractors were used in the woods of Kent and Sussex where they did not have a lot of maintenence if any. Yours being a lorry will have had a better chance of having antifreeze perhaps. Is it an early engine with the throttle rod going through the block? There are generally two types of liner one thick wall and one thin wall, Seem to think the thin wall is the earlier one but my memory is suspect sometimes. You can also get liners with a flat top and another with a little raised ring on the top, ( also memory suspect here ). Are you going to just do the seals or a complete engine refurb as a rebuild kit is under £300 the last one I done was only £220 but a while ago. Thats pistons ,liners valves and springs etc. As for the interior what do you want to know, in mine which is completely original everything is black ,it would be a job to get pictures for you but nothing is impossible. Where abouts are you situated ? Just thought of one thing if the block has rotted away and the lip has completely gone the plastic metals you can get now really are the best way to mend it (IMO) in the seventies we only had araldite and lashings of hermatite etc. Ken |
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Treganin
Joined: 17 Jul 2014 Posts: 17 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:04 am Post subject: |
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Great Info all and Thanks Kenham.
I'm in the Fens, between Huntingdon and Chatteris (although the old girl came from Preston)
I've got access to silicon, have liquid gasket and will get some chemical metal, we're going to get the head and block off and then decide what work is really required. If it only needs the liners then that's what we'll do, if it needs a rebuild then I guess that's what'll happen. The guy I brought her from (Clive) said that she'd always had anti-freeze in her whilst he had had her (around 10 years), So, I'm hopeful, but she's got a good 15 years on me and work can only be expected.
Interior wise - anything you've got really, Although the inside will be modernisation and not a restoration, it would still be great to get an idea as to how they looked from the factory. |
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Treganin
Joined: 17 Jul 2014 Posts: 17 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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Got the block and head off today and found a dirty great crack in number 4 liner, rest are clean as a whistle.
We think that where she's been sat for a while the two oil feeder rings have gummed up and piston has been slapping slightly and then cracked the liner when it got hot!
Oh well. _________________ C'est seulement en faisant quelque chose que en devient quelqu'un |
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Kenham
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 209 Location: Kent
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Pleased you have found the problem. What are you going to do , replace the one, or all ? The good thing about these engines is the fact they are easy to work on, soon be up and running again, Ken |
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Treganin
Joined: 17 Jul 2014 Posts: 17 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Kenham wrote: | | Pleased you have found the problem. What are you going to do , replace the one, or all ? The good thing about these engines is the fact they are easy to work on, soon be up and running again, Ken |
Not sure which way to go to be honest Ken. Parts are cheap enough to replace all liners, pistons etc and then it should be good for another 60 years.....
but the other three look spot on so may just be making unnecessary work - don't fix what ain't broken!!! _________________ C'est seulement en faisant quelque chose que en devient quelqu'un |
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Kenham
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 209 Location: Kent
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Thats exactly what I think, just replace the one . Valves done perhaps and it will probably only be another 25 years before it needs anything done. Ken |
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