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Cellulose vs Two Pack for a Classic Car?
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Rich5ltr



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 680
Location: Hampshire, UK
PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
RotaryBri wrote:
I know that photographs can make a car look better but your paintwork looks superb. Does it really need a bare metal paint job?
Thanks and yes it does scrub up well but in the picture below you may just be able to see the blistering around the Tickford badge.



This is prevalent in several places on the doors and lower front side panels. The rear wheel arches have some corrosion to the inner lip which will need cutting out and replacing (Aston wrapped the aluminium skin around a steel rod former and hence you get bimetallic corrosion at the edges of the bodywork. Finally for some odd reason Aston used steel for the cills and these are pitted. All in all I think it's probably best just to go back and start again. Confused I agree it's not pressing but I've owned the car for 7 years now and I don't mind spending some money on it as it is an asset.
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France
PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Out of interest, and pondering this question myself, recently, I have carried out some research and unearthed, finally, the EU Directive, enshrined into UK law and enforced by DEFRA, concerning Nitrocellulose paint finishes.

http://archive.defra.gov.uk/environment/quality/pollution/ppc/localauth/paints/documents/code-of-practice.pdf

Personally, I fear the main problem in finding a capable refinisher using nitrocellulose, will be the skill-set. Mainly because a skilled cellulose refinisher in say 1975 would have to be at least 30: add the intervening years and they would be 69-70!

Whilst this paint was pretty much ubiquitous in the late 1960s and early to mid 1970s, most major body shops were then using low bake Acrylic paints.

(Note: Air Drying Acrylics were pretty useless!).

Manufacturers were using High Bake Acrylic Lacquer from around 1955-60. Rolls, interestingly, were still using these paint finishes into the early 1980s.

2K was a development of and from Acrylic Lacquers.

Now, of course, major refinishers use water borne paints with very limited volatiles and HVLP (High Volume Low pressure) spray systems and state-of-the-art spray booths/ovens.

Interesting bit of history about Dupont and Pyroxylin (nitrocellulose) paint, here.

http://www2.dupont.com/Phoenix_Heritage/en_US/1923_b_detail.html

One explanation I have read, elsewhere, suggests after World War One, chemical and explosives manufacturers had huge stockpiles of gun cotton etc and the plant to make it and someone had to find a way to use it!
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Well, apart from that, did you enjoy the play, Mrs Lincoln?
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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2009
Location: Glasgow
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Tekaloid Coach Enamel is a fantastic paint for brushing on
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One of Britain's Fine Cars
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D4B



Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 2083
Location: Hampshire UK
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
47p2 wrote:
Tekaloid Coach Enamel is a fantastic paint for brushing on


From this I found this supplier, looks a very interesting site:

http://www.smithandallan.com/
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
47p2 wrote:
Tekaloid Coach Enamel is a fantastic paint for brushing on


For a DB2/4?

Wrong thread, perhaps?

Wink
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Well, apart from that, did you enjoy the play, Mrs Lincoln?
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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2009
Location: Glasgow
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Sorry yes wrong thread Embarassed
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Rich5ltr



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 680
Location: Hampshire, UK
PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Never mind, having gained several opinions and idea the thread can develop into a chat about paint for old cars... Smile
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DPP



Joined: 24 Feb 2013
Posts: 46
Location: Manchester
PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I think you're right to go the bare metal route as once stripped you will find more corrosion but caught early will be a far simpler fix.
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Jensen Interceptor MK111
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